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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone would be interested in a custom built box that fits behind the third row. A close family friend has a component molding machine that can create duplicates of a sub box I recently built that is made to fit behind the third row. There are countless materials that can be used to make the molds, but I was thinking of using the same tensile plastic that MTX uses to make their thunderforms.

So my question is, would you be interested for a fair price?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could do 2 or 1, 10's or 12s. I would say 10s because of air space. Kicker makes these awesome shallow mounts that are 400 watts RMS and sound amazing

It really doesn't matter to me, just getting feedback. I am personally going to do just 1 10" because I want to run a 5 channel amp (Kicker makes a 4 x 100, 1 x 500)
 

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Pics please.
 

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What box do you have now? I'd really like to have a box that goes the entire width so we can get more air for the sub to pound against, if the air to the side of the sub provides any benefit.

Right now I have 2 boxes, first I have the standard 12" "truck box" found at any stereo shop for $60. It will fit behind the third row. When not using the 3rd row, I take that out and put in a standard "hatch box" which will in no way fit with the 3rd row up, but the additional cubic feet makes a huge difference. I can actually get some "hit" out of that, where with the truck box I get bass, but it is nowhere near as clear or hard hitting. So, I'm assuming since I don't know about box design, that if we just had more air in basically a doublewide truck box, it would hit harder. Make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I see where you are going with this ideology and you are somewhat correct. Air displacement does make a difference on the “loudness” of bass but not always the clarity. It all comes down to correct power and the correct size of the box. If you are using a sub that is designed for a 1.2 cubic ft enclosure and you are putting it in a .8 cubic ft truck box it would sound less “clear and bassy”. The same is true on the other end. Putting it in a 3’ cubic ft box distorts tremendously and you will get the crappy bandpass sound and muffle the woofer. Adding ports and vents is a whole new ball game. General size of enclosures range from 1.0 – 1.3 cubic ft for a solid 10” and about 1.45 for a 12”. The problem still resides with the actual size of the woofers magnet. Creating a box for the average sub is ideal. I truly am a believer (after 7 years as a car audio installer) that the Kicker Comp VT is the ideal sub for our car if you want to utilize the rear seat. If you want to go with one sub, as I think I am going for, I would have it so the “enclosure” stretched the entire length, leaving room to mount the amp, yet also keeping the correct volume.

I will get some preliminary pics up and go from there. Just give me about a week. But please keep giving the feedback!

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JhkzS0LOIF7/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?search=comp+vt&i=2067C12VT2
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I met with the guy last night. Basically need to pick a plastic that is acoustically appropriate. I know MTX uses a high density polyehtaline resin and I know that accrylic (basically plexiglass) has good accoustic properties. So we are going to do some tests. I just need to make a new "smaller version" of a couple boxes so the mold can be made. I am going to attemp to make a single that goes behind 1 seat, a single with a slightly larger air space with an amp rack that stretches across the width, and a dual enclosure. I am not sure about the dual because I am still determining how I would place an inner chamber.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I actually just completed mine yesterday. I am having a hard time dealing with the mold to reproduce it. Making the inner chamber wall that seperate the amp section from the subwoofer is going to be almost impossible in plastic. I will get some pics up soon I Promise.
 
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