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im looking too but havent purchased anything. i found these search while searching on the site...
https://www.jeeperf.com/product-page/05-10-jeep-wk-xk-poly-differential-bushing-set
what happened in your experience? premature failure? it couldnt be any worse than what you have now...
i would think the urethane ones would last a long time but operation would be more harsh than rubber (but less than no bushing at all).
 

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im looking too but havent purchased anything. i found these search while searching on the site...
https://www.jeeperf.com/product-page/05-10-jeep-wk-xk-poly-differential-bushing-set
what happened in your experience? premature failure? it couldnt be any worse than what you have now...
i would think the urethane ones would last a long time but operation would be more harsh than rubber (but less than no bushing at all).
LOL. I can tell you from experience that the Jeep Perf urethane bushings were awful. No exaggeration. They were poorly machined, and the quality of the urethane was very poor. It looked like home brewed garbage. I purchased the "soft" ones and they transmitted noise and vibration like a SOB. I will tell you that the Jeep Perf front sway-bar end links were much more robust and the machine work was acceptable. The paint was awful from the get go, and rusted out in less then two months in the summertime mind you. IMO, Jeep Perf is a mom and pop operation, and while they have some good ideas, not everything is executed as well as it could be. The urethane from creative steel looks superion and also note they took the time to build the bracket for the diff that you woudl otherwise need to reuise from your factory rubber.

Last thought to leave you with. When I pulled our the jeep perf bushings after 2 weeks of using them, the "urethane" looked like it was starting t flake apart!! There is a post on here about it and one guy questioned my findings. I think he might have had a different experience. I dont know and dont care. I replaced them with the factory rubber junk, and all was right with the world ......for 6 months. LOL Hence this post. I am hoping someone has used and has experience with the Creative Steel units. :smile2:
 

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Last thought to leave you with. When I pulled our the jeep perf bushings after 2 weeks of using them, the "urethane" looked like it was starting t flake apart!! There is a post on here about it and one guy questioned my findings. I think he might have had a different experience. I dont know and dont care. I replaced them with the factory rubber junk, and all was right with the world ......for 6 months. LOL Hence this post. I am hoping someone has used and has experience with the Creative Steel units. :smile2:
I replaced my front upper differential bushing 2 years ago, with the standard FCA OEM replacement bushing and have had no problems since.

I've heard nothing on this forum - good, bad or indifferent about these Creative Steel bushings other than the link from Facebook with the reviews about them that I posted previously:

https://www.facebook.com/Creative-St...499435/reviews

Most of the reviews I read seem positive - fwiw.
 

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I'm planning on buying the Creative Steel bushing in the near future. I'll report back when I get them and have the replacement done.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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I put the Jeep Perf bushings in about two years ago. Decent quality and fit well. A slight increase in noise being that the bushings are stiffer than stock.
 

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Hey All,

Have an update here. I called Creative Steel today and spoke with Josh (one of the owners). It's a family operation, but their attention to detail seems to be above average. He listened to my situation and made recommendations based on their experience with our axle in their SRT 8 WK1. He passed on some great information, and as I suspected by looking at the pictures of the bushings, urethane is not created equal.

1. Their urethane (soft & hard durometer) is "hot poured" and degassed. It is a bit more time consuming and somewhat more lengthy of a process, but the end result is a less brittle, yet strong urethane. High quality name brand companies tend to use hot poured urethane on their top shelf products. PS- the durometer on their soft solid bushings is 70 which falls under the high side of soft if you check out a urethane hardness chart.

2. Most aftermarket companies that are smaller or larger companies that are manufacturing cheaper urethane do "cold poured" urethane manufacturing. This requires no off gassing and yields a brittle yet harder final product. Its simply mixing two components into a cast. I guarantee that the bushings I disliked from Jeep Perf were cold poured. Not saying this is outright wrong or bad, but it makes total scientific sense to me based on what I saw before and after. Also- I do not wish to offend or tell any one with cold poured urethane that it is "wrong" or not sufficient. Everyone will have their own experiences and can make their own decisions. I just to pass on the education / information I received this afternoon. That being said, cold poured urethane bushing tend to have a durometer of 90 which falls towards the hard side of the urethane hardness chart.

3. OK, after Josh gave me an education on polyurethane bushing manufacturing, he then gave me advice on what to buy based on my particular case and based on experience with their SRT8 GC test mule. Their test mule obviously makes lots of HP and needs all the stiffness for traction it can get launching 1/4 miles in AWD. So, hard durometer hot poured urethane was what worked best for performance, but admittedly transfers lots of vibration. Josh went on to explain that the upper pinion bushing in the XK/ WK1 is usually the one that fails first (which we all know). However - what I didn't know is that about 75% of the torque and associated stress IS TRANSFERRED TO THAT ONE BUSHING FIRST. Holy cow is that a stupid engineering design for a rubber bushing. The other two take way less of a beating.

4. Josh felt based on my trucks symptoms, intended usage & expectations that a full set of 3 soft durometer bushings was not necessary. He encouraged me to keep the two rubber OEM bushings installed (one on the side of housing and the other one on the front of the diff cover) especially as they are only 6 months old and take way less load i.e they should NOT be compromised this early. The upper rear pinion bushing (the one you have to drop the diff housing for of course :) will be replaced with his $60 soft urethane bushing. He felt this will undoubtedly stop the shifter clunking and clunking under load at off speeds without transferring tons of vibration like a full set would, especially a full hard set like they use in the SRT8 where it is of course necessary.

I will let you guys all know how this works out after installation and a few hundred miles of test driving for good measure....

For me, this little experiment is worth it as the clunking personally drives me nuts!

Thanks,
Trevor
 

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so not you have found the parts, how are you going about replacing the bushing? :) taking it somewhere or DIY?
DIY methods ive seen are taking out the axles shafts and removing the diff OR just disconnecting the diff mounting bolts, strapping it up, and rotating it to access the bushings. im thinking about trying the latter.
 

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Hi drm4633,

I am not planning on doing this myself. I simply dont have the time as this is my DD. Tilting the housing back and supporting with straps in theory sound like a viable plan, but that all depends on the grief the current bushing gives you coming out. Most people end up air chiseling these bushings out, so dropping the diff for the pinion bushing is easiest for accessibility one would assume.

I will bet good money that folks have done this surgery without dropping the housing, but I cant see how it wouldn't be a PITA on our back... LOL.

Trevor
 

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. Josh went on to explain that the upper pinion bushing in the XK/ WK1 is usually the one that fails first (which we all know). However - what I didn't know is that about 75% of the torque and associated stress IS TRANSFERRED TO THAT ONE BUSHING FIRST. Holy cow is that a stupid engineering design for a rubber bushing. The other two take way less of a beating.
This falls in line with what I have always heard & been told, that the front upper differential bushing is typically the one that fails on both WKs & XKs - your information actually explains why that is the case, which is good to know, thanks for sharing.

I've already had my front upper differential replaced about 2 years ago but I just used the standard FCA/OEM replacement bushing.
 

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Just ordered one of the black soft bushings from these guys for the top bushing that takes all the abuse. Will be a DIY install, and plan on also replacing the other two bushings with factory OEM style bushings from Rock Auto. Those don't take nearly the same punishment, so OEM should be just fine for those.

I plan on doing this without removing the differential. Already have an air chisel and a sawzall, now just need to get a ball joint press! I'll see if I can't post some pictures of these bushings side by side once I receive them.
 
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