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i did a search on oil, and didn't see anything about this.
whatis the consensus, on dino or synthetic oils for the 3.7, in the 2006. i just got this one, and am going to change the fluids, as it has almost 160k on it.
i did find the thread on the Wix filters, and will use one of them. i guess the other thing, is the antifreeze.

thanks
Bob
 

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I've been running full synthetic for 36k miles.

No reason not to IMHO.

Not sure about the WIX filter thread. I've run several other long OCI filters with no problems.


I change my own oil and longer OCI's make synthetic less expensive for me. Plus manufacturers almost always have some sort of MIR promo or something. I triple my Oil change interval (~9k miles) and spend around $20 normally per oil change including filter and oil.
 

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Antifreeze: Its important that you get the correct HOAT chrysler antifreeze. None of the universal stuff. Zerex G05 is the correct stuff IIRC.


I'm sure that I am long overdue on the trans and diff fluid change. Gotta get around to that. Would love suggestions if anyone has preferences.
 

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I have the 5.7 hemi but the last oil change I put in Synthetic. At 4,000 miles and about 6 months I decided to change it. It looked awful dark so I changed it - I like clean. So next change I'll go back to dino and 3,000 miles. 7 quarts per change can be expensive with synthetic. I also have installed a Fumoto valve on the oil drain and love it - a lot less messy.
 

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Synthetic is superior to Conventional (Dino) oil.
But today's Conventional oil is darn good as well.


Conventional, changed with a good filter at the proper intervals, should be good enough for most types of driving and conditions.
Synthetic, if you want to go longer between change intervals, all the more important to use a good filter.
Synthetic, if you push your vehicle harder or drive in harsher conditions.


Synthetic will keep the engine cleaner (because it needs less additives that break down quickly to form deposits) and generally less wear. It may be overkill in mild driving and conditions, BUT, if you've got 160k on the motor and are going to drive even longer, then overkill on the wear reduction is likely a good thing.


Filters can be subjective, and people will argue which one is best, it starts to become fan boyish, like Ford vs Chevy. Avoid the Orange Fram filters, they are Junk. WIX is a good brand, and I don't think anyone will say its NOT a good filter, you can't go wrong using that one. BTW, the NAPA Gold (and some of the Silvers) brand filters are just rebranded WIX filters.


Antifreeze is suppose to be changed every 5yrs/100k miles, which ever comes first. The whole reason why we have this fiasco of all different types of incompatible long life antifreeze (while the original green is still the best protecting antifreeze despite if being older) is because owners never changed their antifreeze. So if you aren't going to change antifreeze, well then at least the longer life, lesser protecting antifreeze is better in the long run. Use the recommended HOAT, which the aftermarket equivalent Zerex G-05. Ford and Mercedes of the same years used the exact same antifreeze, so the Zerex G-05 is dyed the Ford Amber color. I guess Ford's using this antifreeze was the most common, that is why they went with the Ford color, it doesn't matter its just dye.


Finally, there are 2 kinds of Synthetic Oil. You can thank Castroil and their deceptive marketing, they won in court and got to call their cheaper oil "Synthetic" while still selling it at Synthetic prices. The media and consumers are too ignorant to know the difference, so the rest of the industry couldn't beat them, so they joined them.


Group II oils are refined and improved crude oil. This is conventional oil.
Group III oils are highly refined and improved crude oil, that also goes through a hydrogenation process that splits hydro-carbon molecules. This is a synthetizing process, that is why the courts agreed they could call it Synthetic.
Group IV oils are synthetized, they start as pure gases that combined in chemical reactions to produce a pure oil with uniform molecules.


Yes, most people are convinced that even Mobil1 has gone to Group III oils in their Synthetic, that only true Group IV synthetic oils you can get are the Exotics, like Royal Purple, AMSOIL, RedLine, etc....


But also don't be fooled by the Grp III originating from crude oil. The extra processes it goes through do make it a superior oil and has many of the benefits of Grp IV oils. If you use Grp III oils, your engine will be cleaner and have less wear than if you used Grp II conventional oils.
 

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I have the 5.7 hemi but the last oil change I put in Synthetic. At 4,000 miles and about 6 months I decided to change it. It looked awful dark so I changed it - I like clean. So next change I'll go back to dino and 3,000 miles. 7 quarts per change can be expensive with synthetic. I also have installed a Fumoto valve on the oil drain and love it - a lot less messy.
what filter were you running?

Generally the synthetics have higher concentrations of detergents, it may have just knocked loose more deposits than normal. Pennzoil for one is particularly high concentrations of detergents IIRC. I run that usually.
 

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There are actually 5 groups of oil.

A Group V oil is a Polyolester synthetic - there may be only a couple of Polyolester based oils out there available, I know that Redline oils are polyolester based.

Most high end synthetics are a group IV (pao) synthetic base such as Amzoil though many Amzoil synthetics are no longer Group IV and are made from Group III or a blend of III and IV. Amzoil will not publish what group their oils are formulated from.

Here is a good article with definitions of synthetic types:

Understanding the Differences in Base Oil Groups

As to filters I think the Purolator BOSS filters are as good or better than any other filter available.
 

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what filter were you running?.
I think it was a Purolator synthetic filter. You may be right about the detergent and knocking the dirt loose. It was Mobile 1. Well when I changed it I put Mobil 1 in it again. Will see what happens now. I was going to switch after this change as I didn't see how black it was until I had already bought the Mobil1 this time. 68,000 miles. Back in the 1960s I had a 350 Chevy and switched to Royal Triton Purple which was a high detergent oil, Proceeded to make a trip from Chicago to NY and in Indiana was getting a cloud of smoke out the exhaust. Broken rings. The super mechanic I went to said the high detergent oil freed up junk on the rings and they started flexing as never before and broke. Since then I never switched oil brands - till now. I just may go back to Quaker State which I have used in all 12 of my cars without any problems. Is mobile 1 a high detergent? I looked but could not see that on the bottle. If it is I never would have switched. Not a big worry as I have a lifetime on the power train:)
 

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Time to change again - 3,000 miles on the Mobil 1 synthetic. It was awful dark. Got to use the Fumoto valve for the first time - what a breeze. Changed it while still HOT with no problem. Back to Dino oil - Quaker State 5W20.
I am retired and it takes almost a year to put on 3,000 miles:grin2:
 

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Not sure what retire has to do with low milage, I have been retired 9 years and still put 12-15K on my XK per year. My XK is no longer my go to long distance vehicle. I envy you low milage folks.
 

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Build Up

I'm not sure yet but I went to syn because there is not supposed to be any gunk build up when using it compared to dyno, and if you have a 5.7 with MDS you don't want any gunk, if it is black it's time to change it, check the rockers or the fill spout for any gunk in the future.


Swanny
 

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I'm not sure yet but I went to syn because there is not supposed to be any gunk build up when using it compared to dyno, and if you have a 5.7 with MDS you don't want any gunk, if it is black it's time to change it, check the rockers or the fill spout for any gunk in the future.
Swanny
Strange thing, my MDS has a LED on it I installed to see when active. My mileage has not been good lately and I thought it was because I had pulled the battery cable off to reset a code when I had to replace the oil pressure sending unit. Well now that I went back to Dino oil the LED seems to come one much more often??? I'll keep an eye on my mileage but think it will be better. Goes against everything I've heard about synthetic. Yes both the Synthetic and Dino were 5W20.
 
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