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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All. Looking for some help diagnosing a problem on a "new" (used salvage) door I just put on my 07 Commander. Put it all back together with my old door panel and everything works - except the driver's window. Rolls down fine, but when I try to raise it, it only goes up about a half inch at a time. Even if I help it along by pulling it up, it maxes out at 1/2" intervals. Is this the TSB re-programming symptom or likely a failing motor? TIA.
 

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That is different than the issue that required recalibrating the windows. But it wouldn't hurt for you to try it.

Calibrate Express Up/Down Mode for each window by:

a. Holding the power window switch down in the first detent (manual down mode).
Drive the glass to the full down position (fully open).

b. Drive the glass into the full up position (fully closed). Hold the switch up in the first
detent (manual up mode) and stall for 1 full second, continue depressing the switch
for 1 second after glass has reached full up position.

c. Test the express down by driving the glass to the full down position (fully open).
Hold the switch down in the second detent (Express down mode) for 1 second, then
release switch.

d. Test the express up by driving the glass to the full up position (fully closed). Hold
the switch up in the second detent (Express up mode) for 1 second, then release
switch.
 

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Swap out a switch first in that case if what Jeep5253 said didn't fully help. Same problem fixed in my wife's van. Check connection and corrosion on old switch also before thinking of motor. Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses. Still not working. It seems like the motor is engaging but is unable to power the window up beyond that 1/4-1/2" at a time. You can see the power drain when I push the switch (the lights dim in the interior) but it stops - so it takes about 60 switch activations to get the window up.
 

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Since it was a salvage door, is it possible that the door got damaged previously and internal mechanism is jammed or binding?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Since it was a salvage door, is it possible that the door got damaged previously and internal mechanism is jammed or binding?
Hi Paul - possible - but there was not damage to the door that showed (no dents/dings) and it goes DOWN just fine. I thought that maybe it would go up all the way if I was pulling it upwards manually, but that made no difference at all. Still crept upward 1/4-1/2" at a time. Does it sound like the regulator or motor? I DO have a working one (on the door I took off) so maybe that's the best solution. It just looks like a pain in the a$$ to change out . . . .
 

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If you have run out of options, changing the motor may be best bet. The salvage motor may have some internal binding of its own. I understand your comments on being a PITA to work on. I also have a 89 Grand Wagoneer where I had to fix multiple wiring issues when I bought it. Every one was a major PITA to track down the problem....and I am not done yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Paul - that's what I'm thinking. Could be that the mechanism even has some corrosion from sitting around which is binding up the arms of the regulator. Still having a hard time conceptualizing why it won't go up when I'm providing manual assistance by pulling up the glass though . . . it only wants to move at it's own rate.
 

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Paul - that's what I'm thinking. Could be that the mechanism even has some corrosion from sitting around which is binding up the arms of the regulator. Still having a hard time conceptualizing why it won't go up when I'm providing manual assistance by pulling up the glass though . . . it only wants to move at it's own rate.
DuxDweller;

If water got down inside that door somehow due to failing window seals/rain guards or what have you, (which isn't very far-fetched) you could have a multitude of issues going on.

If I was in your shoes, and you are dead set on doing this yourself, I would pull the door panel off and take a good look at all the wiring, switches & components inside that door and see if you can spot any obvious water damage or corrosion.

Maybe this is not the issue - but it seems like a logical starting point to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
All - took the door panel off and found that the wires to the window motor had been stripped (strangely all of them) for about a half inch all around. Taped them up with electrical tape and it works fine now! Thanks for your help!
 

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All - took the door panel off and found that the wires to the window motor had been stripped (strangely all of them) for about a half inch all around. Taped them up with electrical tape and it works fine now! Thanks for your help!
Any idea how that happened? Were they rubbing on something? Or rodents chewing?
 

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You might have inadvertently moved the contacts around when taping the wires and made better contact. That being the case, it could be still loose enough to arc when juice goes through it. Eventually it could carbon up and the problem comes back.
This has happened in other parts of the commander.
Was the wiring harness OK on the old door? Maybe hang onto it just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Any idea how that happened? Were they rubbing on something? Or rodents chewing?
I have no idea. If you looked at them you would have sworn someone stripped them on purpose because it was a 1/2" section on EVERY wire - all in the exact same spot, and the stripping was "clean."
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You might have inadvertently moved the contacts around when taping the wires and made better contact. That being the case, it could be still loose enough to arc when juice goes through it. Eventually it could carbon up and the problem comes back.
This has happened in other parts of the commander.
Was the wiring harness OK on the old door? Maybe hang onto it just in case.
Thanks - I did keep the wiring harness and the old regulator/motor in case I have more issues. Hopefully none of them in the middle of the winter!
 
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