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Hello all fellow Commander commanders!

I've just purchased my first Jeep. It is a 2006, 5.7l Hemi. Or was.
I know I got taken, but I love this vehicle. I say taken, because less than a month into ownership(and not driving it hardly at all the first 2 weeks) the motor blew up while I was minding my own business, driving down the beach. It just died in the tracks.

First off, would a tow driver who picked up the front 2 wheels have caused any further damage by towing with only the rear wheels on the ground?

Second, where's the best place to purchase, and have installed, a rebuilt engine? I've explored a bit, and although somewhat pricey, the place in North Carolina that rebuilds and installs sounds like a decent investment, with a 3 year warranty.

Third, or should I just chuck this one and search for another????? I did not pay a lot, but I did take out a loan to purchase, so I'm in the hole either way.

Thanks for any input!
 

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I used the place in NC (Pro Engines). Best deal I could find at the time. Some leaks im dealing with here and there but the warranty was worth the price.

Have them replace the rear main seal while they're in there. No sense in having a $15 part leak and cost $500-1000 to fix - which is what I'm dealing with now.
 

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Hello all fellow Commander commanders!

I've just purchased my first Jeep. It is a 2006, 5.7l Hemi. Or was.
I know I got taken, but I love this vehicle. I say taken, because less than a month into ownership(and not driving it hardly at all the first 2 weeks) the motor blew up while I was minding my own business, driving down the beach. It just died in the tracks.

First off, would a tow driver who picked up the front 2 wheels have caused any further damage by towing with only the rear wheels on the ground?

Second, where's the best place to purchase, and have installed, a rebuilt engine? I've explored a bit, and although somewhat pricey, the place in North Carolina that rebuilds and installs sounds like a decent investment, with a 3 year warranty.

Third, or should I just chuck this one and search for another????? I did not pay a lot, but I did take out a loan to purchase, so I'm in the hole either way.

Thanks for any input!
@Beachnhemi;

Welcome to the forum;

Please read the New Member Required Reading below and complete your profile signature as directed, in order to comply with the forum rules;


Thanks & welcome aboard.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I used the place in NC (Pro Engines). Best deal I could find at the time. Some leaks im dealing with here and there but the warranty was worth the price.

Have them replace the rear main seal while they're in there. No sense in having a $15 part leak and cost $500-1000 to fix - which is what I'm dealing with now.
Thanks! That is who I am leaning toward. It's good to hear a positive review.
 

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Beware of Cheap engine overhauls!

I am a certified mechanic, I would not buy any of the cheap overhauled engines you see on the internet, And I deffinatly wouldnt use any of the cheap china made parts in any of the engines I build.
Most of these mass Machine shops are using very cheap China made parts! They can afford to offer warranty's because of how cheap the parts are!
What good is an Overhauled engine made of Parts that wont last? Gaskets that leak ?
 

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Beware of Cheap engine overhauls!

I am a certified mechanic, I would not buy any of the cheap overhauled engines you see on the internet, And I deffinatly wouldnt use any of the cheap china made parts in any of the engines I build.
Most of these mass Machine shops are using very cheap China made parts! They can afford to offer warranty's because of how cheap the parts are!
What good is an Overhauled engine made of Parts that wont last? Gaskets that leak ?
@Doright;

How exactly would you identify - or define, a cheap engine overhaul?

I'm asking so that anybody who might want to try & avoid this, would know exactly what they should be looking for.

Thanks.
 

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@Doright;

How exactly would you identify - or define, a cheap engine overhaul?

I'm asking so that anybody who might want to try & avoid this, would know exactly what they should be looking for.

Thanks.
Demand to know what parts are being used! Then do the research on them, simple.
Beware of foreign made Pistons & rings, Beware of foreign made cam and Lifters, beware of foreign made gaskets.

Its not rocket science.
 

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Demand to know what parts are being used! Then do the research on them, simple.
Beware of foreign made Pistons & rings, Beware of foreign made cam and Lifters, beware of foreign made gaskets.

Its not rocket science.
Relax & take a breath @Doright;

I actually thought it was a very good point that you made.

I just wanted you to elaborate a little more, for those who may not know what to look for - or what questions to ask.

The average person shopping around to have an engine rebuilt, probably wouldn't think to ask about what parts are being used - no less doing any research to check if the pistons, rings & gaskets that are being used, are foreign made.

They would likely be more focused on the price & the warranty.

What's plainly obvious to you, may not be plainly obvious to other people.
 
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I have an 07 Hemi Commander with 215000. I have had to show it some love but it seems pretty solid now.

Right off the get go you must repair any signs of coolant leaks. Overheating is the primary cause of failure. Secondly, use a quality synthetic 5W20 oil and quality oils filters. Mobile 1 and Amsoil are the choice oil for me, and Wix or NAPA Gold (also Wix) filters. With the thin oil you want to make sure some oil can remain on the lifter rollers. High quality synthetics contain additives that help oil stay where it is needed, as well as clean the inside of the engine.

I found and repaired five leaks in the first two months of driving.
Heater hose tee
Upper Rad hose
Heater hose pipe
Thermostat seal
Radiator filler neck plug

So, get a good engine, highly consider changing all the rubber and engine gaskets, and get that baby back on the road. These HEMI Commanders that survive will be tomorrow’s classic Jeeps.
 

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Relax & take a breath @Doright;

I actually thought it was a very good point that you made.

I just wanted you to elaborate a little more, for those who may not know what to look for - or what questions to ask.

The average person shopping around to have an engine rebuilt, probably wouldn't think to ask about what parts are being used - no less doing any research to check if the pistons, rings & gaskets that are being used, are foreign made.

They would likely be more focused on the price & the warranty.

What's plainly obvious to you, may not be plainly obvious to other people.
I Build a Lot of engines, I personally am blown away by even my machinist cavalier attitude towards cheap China parts He knows dang well their junk But he has soo many customers that demand cheap he has just went with it to compete with the internet.
I demand that my engines perform and most importantly live long long lives do yourself the favor demand Quality parts.
A quality build is more than just a long block, replace consumable parts such as Water pump, all of your Sensors, all your hoses and vacuum lines, send the injectors out to be cleaned and flowed, Send radiator out to be properly cleaned and repaired if necessary Maybe even reman the transmision while your at it, I have done it both ways with a rebuild on the Tranny and without its come back to haunt me a few times by not doing the tranny.
Doing a quality build is more than just a long block.

I myself can Overhaul my own Transmissions so to me its just Gaskets seals bushings and some clutches usually unless its burnt up. Not everyone can do that!
Its Always cheaper to build them before they go out!
 

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It happens Beach. I picked up a 2004 Durango with only 70k miles on it and the head gaskets cut loose in November letting the engine hydrolock. I thought it was just a bad rod bearing so I didn't worry about coolant scoring the block. When I yanked the engine in July, it needed an overbore as well as having a bent rod.

I found a cheap set of forged Wiseco's on Ebay and upgraded to h-beams as well. I picked up a small Comp camshaft, aftermarket lifters and replaced the seats with Moldstar 90's to go with the oversized valves and porting. With all the parts and machine work, it cost 6k.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It happens Beach. I picked up a 2004 Durango with only 70k miles on it and the head gaskets cut loose in November letting the engine hydrolock. I thought it was just a bad rod bearing so I didn't worry about coolant scoring the block. When I yanked the engine in July, it needed an overbore as well as having a bent rod.

I found a cheap set of forged Wiseco's on Ebay and upgraded to h-beams as well. I picked up a small Comp camshaft, aftermarket lifters and replaced the seats with Moldstar 90's to go with the oversized valves and porting. With all the parts and machine work, it cost 6k.
D'oh!
 

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Should be an easy 425hp motor when it is assembled and back in. It should be bullet proof as well taking care of all the know problems, valve seats, crappy torque to yield bolts etc. I have ARP head and main studs, a high volume oil pump and the Hylift Johnson lifters oil the roller axles. I am doing the painting and other odds and ends right now.
 
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