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Discussion Starter #1
I read the Owner's Manual and engine oil additives are not recommended. Has anyone tried a Slick type product or ProLong? There are so many to choose from.

Do they really even work? I guess that is the threshold question.

AR
 

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They are not all a waste of money. I have seen the benefits personally in the past. I would not waste my money on the "new" slick 50, but I would use Lubrilon, which is the original Slick 50 formula under a different name. Basically the guy who invented slick 50 sold the name, and the rights to the formula for a certain number of years, then when the years ran out, he got the rights to the formula back, Slick 50 name stayed, but it's not the same as the original. During that time he improved the formula and it's marketed as lubrilon. I've seen a 440 4spd GTX drive 150 miles with no oil in the pan, and no engine wear or damage. I've seen the cam on an OHC 2.3 in my thunderbird TC go from giving you splinters due to oil starvation, to slick as as baby snot in 2 weeks after the application of lubrilon. Again, it's not all hype, some of the products do work.

Should you put it in your engine? That's up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What change interval for synthetics?

What is the oil change interval if using synthetics?

Also, where does one buy Lubrilon?

AR
 

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artmanr said:
What is the oil change interval if using synthetics?

AR
I go 6,000 on synthetic. That is what was recommended by my dealership.
 

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Hi AR,
I really have never seen any real benefit from any oil additive. For example,Slick 50.

The friction modifier was Teflon. Dupont,the creator and license holder of Teflon stated that they did NOT [caps mine] intend teflon to ever be used in an environment of high heat like an engine.
They found that if the engine overheated for any reason the teflon molecues would attract to one another and begin to make small beads of melted Teflon. Ultimatly this would result in bearing damage and extreme cases showed cylinder/piston scoring.
Although given many names by the companies who market friction modifiers,the reality is, the modifier is always Teflon.
Now synthetics are another animal.
They can operate at significantly higher engine operating tempuratures and still protect the rotating and recriprocating assemblys.
Because they are not carbon based, they will not separate and cause sludge as a conventional oil will, if not changed at recommended intervals.
Because they are esther based, some over the road operators utilize a 25000 mile change interval,only replacing filters and topping off at the intervals suggested if they were using conventional oil.
Since you live in the Chicago area [ I'm in Desplaines], you will find that if using a synthetic, your engine will crank much faster on cold winter days because synthetics don't thicken till about -50 degrees.
However, I can't recommend synthetics unless you are planning on exceeding 200,000 miles of service life.
That is about where an engine,properly serviced with conventional oils, will start to show more wear than an engine that has operated on synthetics.
I use sythetic oil. I routinely exceed 200k miles. I have never had a wear related engine failure.
The only other reason to use it is because you feel good about using the best money can buy.
However,usually the next owner will get the benifit

If you chose to use synthetics, I recommend a 5000 mile change interval or twice a year, whichever comes first, change interval.

Rob
 

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I use Castrol with Lucas Oil Stabilizer in my 4.7 and get 14-15 city it seems to run much better than before when I ran R.P. Jeep got horrible mileage, 11-12 in the city!
 

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I'm not big on additives. If it's good enough for my Corvette, it's good enough for my Commander. I use Mobil1 synthetic.
 

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Mobile 1 synthetic here as well... a couple times in the past I have used a Qauker State Full-Synthetic. Both are very good products.
 

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If you can afford to run something like Royal Purple or Amsoil those are probably your best bet. I prefer to run a snythetic blend since all I'm going to do is dump it back out of the engine later on. Synthetic blend is cheaper and gives you some of the added benifits of a full synthetic. I change at 3,000 miles no matter what, even when I ran a full syn and the oil never came out looking like it wasn't in need of a change.
 

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I second the Mobil-1, I use it my truck and the tractors too, no problems at all and it lets you double the oil changes to 6-7k miles if you like.
 
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