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Hello guys I have to replace engine on my 2007 jeep commander 3.7L v6
And my question is can I install a 2010 engine?
Please help
 

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I believe that the 07 to 10 3.7 engines in all Chryslers are the same. Earlier 3.7 from 02 had slight differences. I had a Ram 2002 1500 pickup that had a 3.7 out of a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee in it. At that time I was told from 2004 on that there were differences in the 3.7 that made the swap more difficult. It has been a while since I did it so my memory isn't that good.

Dan
 

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If you already bought the replacement block and you have them both on the floor, make sure that all the electrics from the 07 go on the 10 and if there is a problem then you may have to change out that block piece or adapt the new to old as the brain of the 07 may not read the data from the 10 had this problem on a 1998 to 2000 ram 1500 trans.

be careful

Swanny
 

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Hello guys I have to replace engine on my 2007 jeep commander 3.7L v6
And my question is can I install a 2010 engine?
Please help
Sorry if this is a bit late (had trouble signing up for the forum) but I figure it might help other 3.7 owners as well.

I had a 3.7 I needed to swap in my 2006 Commander, very long story turns out the previous owner didn't change the oil for 50k and gunk built up cutting off the oil supply by clogging the pick-up tube
.
For a swap we bought a 2012 Liberty motor and dropped that in.
You can use any 3.7 Chrysler made from 2005 (maybe 2004 I have to double check this) up to the last year 2012. The earlier motor (2002-2003-4?) can be used but you'd have to swap the reluctor on the crank (tells the crank sensor where the crank is) and the similar part on the cam, a few places have videos on this for liberty owners swapping in newer 3.7.

In my case the Cam position sensor had to be swapped (one bolt holds it on the cylinder head) and the oil pan because the liberty had the drain in the wrong place for the Commander. The other sensors were correct and plugged in no problem. Valve cover and timing cover are the same. Crank Pulley is the same.
Of course you'll need your intake manifold set up and ignition coils, maybe knock sensor depending on the year. Really a straight forward set up, I didn't run into any surprises. I did buy another flywheel/flexplate, new oil pan and motor mounts to have the new motor ready to swap, after the prep work (I'll describe this in a minute) I got out the old and had the new in with a few bolts holding it in probably 5 hours of real work. Some of that is lost time messing with the old motor and getting it out of the way. The next day finishing bolting it all up went rather quickly IMO.

The prep work I did over a few days in the evening, the hardest part was actually the exhaust bolts (manifold to downpipe) , those were very hard for get off and not a lot of room to get at it. The nuts that are supposed to lock against the manifold as they are tightened or loosen spun freely. On the passenger side I undid the manifold because I couldn't get the last downpipe bolt free.
Someone else (sorry I've forgotten your name) who did this swap had a tip of removing the fender walls to get access to more of the motor, I stumbled on this trying to get the bolts free on the Exhaust. It's a good idea and a few clips you can get to on the driver side, passengers is mostly block by the heater hoses and ac lines (especially with rear ac)

Next PITA was the second bolt from the top on the passengers side bellhousing, a lot of stuff in the way you'll need a very very long extension and swivel joint to get it off. Go way back near the crossmember supporting the transmission and cat converters and there is a way to get it there.

According to the factory service manual you need to drop the front drive shaft on the 4x4 models, I didn't see the need so left it connected. It might be easier with it out of the way but there is no real need to pull it. They also have this in the instructions for pulling the starter motor, but that too can be removed without dropping the driveshaft, there is just enough room to drop it between the engine block and engine cradle.

The other tip you'll need to remember is to get the intake off the engine you need to loosen and pull the bolt out for the drivers side engine mount and lower the engine.Was first told I need to lower both sides but was worried it would damage the transmission lines on the passengers side so I did it only on one side. Just enough room for this to work. (again this is a tip somebody else had first I rediscovered it doing the job)

A lot of this is a PITA because the engine and transmission are assembled out side the vehicle and then the body put on. So many bolts and things have the body in the way, like trying to get the intake off.

Oh. The AC Compressor can be put out of the way with lines attached this is a tad tricky but do able, the ac lines near the fire wall were little in the way putting the motor back but it just took a little maneuvering. The power steering it very easy to unbolt and put off to the side.
Some say to pull the O2 sensors or disconnected them, I just disconnected them at the harness.
Also the hood is surprisingly lightweight.

I'm probably forgetting a million little things but those are the basics. Overall it was not a bad swap, I've had other cars that were almost impossible to work on.
I recommend trying to find the newest lowest mile 3.7 you can.
I alos have to thank the folks at the KJ forum they gave me a ton of great advice and were experts on the 3.7 motor and what to swap it with.

If anyone has any questions I'd be glad to help if I can.
 
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