Jeep Commander Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've done dash removal on other vehicles in the past, but never a Commander. I've had my A/C system serviced about 2 months ago and it's back down to barely cooling on the driver's side, and not at all on the passenger side. All of my research indicates a leaky evap core, since my mechanic couldn't find a leak under the hood with his sniffer. I've been trying to find how to's in order to familiarize myself, but the only thing I came across was this video regarding a 2007 Grand Cherokee dash removal. I know the two vehicles are mechanically the same, but out of paranoia I want to make sure I get it done correctly. Does anyone know of a Commander specific video floating around anywhere? Here's the video I found of the Cherokee. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gj3P1YEYE6Y
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
I've done the job, its pretty straight forward, but its also a long job with many things to be removed, it is NOT for the faint of heart or someone without some experience with big mechanical jobs.


Keep in mind a couple of things.
*Take pictures with a camera phone as you take it apart as a reference.
*Especially wire routing, you need photos to refer to on those.
*Have a roll of masking tape and a lot of plastic sandwich bags, as you remove each component, put the fasteners in a plastic sandwich bag and tape it to the component. (if you throw all the fasteners into a bucket, you'll waste a lot of time figuring it out and likely won't get it right)
*Put a big piece of masking tape over the steering wheel before removing it, it would be smart to have the steering centered before removing it. The clockspring in the steering column needs to at the right position, if you don't do something to keep the steering wheel in position while it is out of the vehicle, it could turn a full turn and you could be off and after install you'll break the clockspring and the EPS/BAS/Roll Mitigation won't work with warning lights, because you'll have the steering wheel (it has a sensor in it) off.
*Do NOT power on the vehicle, turn the key with the steering column out. I did and blew fuses that took a while to figure out why had stuff NOT working when I put it all back together.


Now is the time to check out all your HVAC doors and actuators, if any need replaced or repaired, you need to do it while the HVAC box is out of the car. There are several that can only be replaced/repaired by removing the HVAC box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I plan to check all the blend doors and anything else in the area for sure. Thanks for the tips!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
I elected to re-use the old heater core, I haven't regretted it. Some won't risk it and just buy a new heater core as well.




Do NOT operate the AC till you fix it, disable it by pulling the connector for the AC compressor clutch. Oil will leak from evaporator leak. I kept recharging and NOT adding oil, when I decided I would have to do an evaporator replacement, I waited to do it, and did NOT disable the AC compressor like I should. One day I forgot and put it on defrost, and it ended up seizing the compressor because of lack of AC oil from the leak. Which just made my repair so much more expensive and time consuming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #6

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
The OEM evaporator from the Dealer is more than $300, but none of the aftermarket items look nearly as quality as the OEM part. A lot of the AC aftermarket sells a lot of junk that does NOT last or work well, I ran into that repairing AC on an old mini-van, wasted money trying to save money going with cheap parts.


4 Seasons is the only brand I could find positive reviews about for quality, so I went with a 4 seasons evaporator. Even the 4 seasons evaporator, the lines were NOT bent to the exact shape they should have been, I had to some forcing to get everything to fit together properly. Its been 2 years and the AC is still working good without a leak.


Only the OEM evaporator will come with all the seals attached to it, the 4 seasons, nor any of the aftermarket come with the seals. I carefully peeled the seals off the OEM evaporator, I had to use a little contact cement for spots that had no adhesive left and stuck all the old seals on the new evaporator.


I'm talking about the seals for air flow around the evaporator, foam that is stuck to the edges to air seal the evaporator in the HVAC box, so all air is forced to flow through it and NOT around the edges. NOT O-rings and other Hi-Pressure seals, you should get those with the components and use the new ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Here's where I'm at now. Wasn't terrible, just tedious.

Does anyone have a diagram for the distribution housing? I'm not sure what the best way to get the evaporator core out is.

Also, what would be the best way to check my blend doors?



Sent from my wx_na_wf using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
This is where I left off. The wonderful rainy Florida weather made this take the entire weekend, and this is as far as I got. Is the only way to get the core out is to take out the blower motor and the top half of the housing?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #16

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
I pulled the entire HVAC box out and took it apart with it out of the vehicle.

IIRC, once your down to the point where you're at, its only a few more bolts to lift the entire HVAC box out.


Look for AC oil residue at the bottom of the evaporator box, if it there make sure to add some oil extra oil, over what you're suppose to for an evaporator change, when servicing the system.


The drain for the HVAC box goes directly down through a hole in the floor over the Transmission. So any leaking oil is hard to spot. Most vehicles have a rubber tube that sticks out of the firewall and bends down. I reserviced my AC several times, but never saw any leaking oil, so I didn't add any oil, and I ended up seizing my AC compressor. So add some extra oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Got this all buttoned up. A/C is cooling on both sides down to about 46*. Evaporator definitely had a leak on the bottom right, and I went ahead and replaced the heater core as well.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top