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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I haven't done any performance mods to any of my vehicles since my first car 17 years ago.

I have the normal exhaust leak that is caused by faulty Mopar bolts from the factory. I got a quote from a Jeep dealer to have them replaced at $300 a side which I think is reasonable. However, I'm thinking about just replacing everything with something aftermarket.

Can someone recommend a good option for the 4.7 V8? This is a high-mileage toy and I'm not looking for a ton of added noise. Just looking for options rather than replacing the factory bolts.
 

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Faulty bolts? Ummm, broken exhaust bolts are NOT that uncommon. Sure you can argue there is some flaw in the design, cause there are other vehicles that don't suffer the broken bolts as often. And often the cure is to replace the bolts with an even higher quality one with special coatings on the threads to prevent them from seizing in the head (usually the cause of snapping in combination with the stress of expanding and contracting of the manifold).

I don't think there are any headers for the 4.7L and Commander combination, and if there were, I'm sure they would cost well more than just repairing the exhaust manifold bolts. As well, most headers come with their own unreliability problems or heat issues that might make you wish for the stock exhaust manifolds back.

The modern exhausts on most Jeeps is hard to improve on, you're NOT likely to see much of a power increase, unless you replace the entire exhaust with a system and then only in combination with other mods.

If a different sound is what you're after, I'd just repair the broken bolts and get a different muffler.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Faulty bolts? Ummm, broken exhaust bolts are NOT that uncommon. Sure you can argue there is some flaw in the design, cause there are other vehicles that don't suffer the broken bolts as often. And often the cure is to replace the bolts with an even higher quality one with special coatings on the threads to prevent them from seizing in the head (usually the cause of snapping in combination with the stress of expanding and contracting of the manifold).

I don't think there are any headers for the 4.7L and Commander combination, and if there were, I'm sure they would cost well more than just repairing the exhaust manifold bolts. As well, most headers come with their own unreliability problems or heat issues that might make you wish for the stock exhaust manifolds back.

The modern exhausts on most Jeeps is hard to improve on, you're NOT likely to see much of a power increase, unless you replace the entire exhaust with a system and then only in combination with other mods.

If a different sound is what you're after, I'd just repair the broken bolts and get a different muffler.
Forgive me for the term faulty. I was just repeating what the Jeep service writer told me. He said they have had countless 4.7 and 5.7 motors with this same issue. Guess that's why he used the word.

Thanks for the information! I'll just stick with what I have and get these bolts replaced. $300 a side pretty reasonable? I had a local Goodyear give me a quote and it was double what Jeep told me, so I assume $600 for them all is a good buy, but you know what they say about people that assume, ha!
 

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You didn't say anything wrong, I'm just being a nit-pic. Technically you have the "broken exhaust stud issue". I could be wrong, but likely the real problem is the design of the exhaust manifold and engine in combination with the vehicle the engine is shoe-horned into. The exhaust studs breaking is just a symptom. But, the only cheap solution Chrysler could provide is an improved stud that can stand up to the extra stress of the engine/manifold design. So that would lead you to believe the problem was purely the exhaust stud/bolt.


Yea, I'm sure the dealer is trying to be quick by just saying the bolts are faulty.


Another way to look at it, the exact same exhaust stud/bolt is in use other engines and never break. But on a Commander with the V8 they are breaking more often than they should.


Of course if you were Chrysler, would you pay to correct the problem with redesigning the head or manifold and then offering them as the solution, or come up with a stronger stud, and in some cases special washers and/or thread coatings that can stand up to the extra stress you didn't anticipate, and solve the problem cheaper and quicker....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good information, thank you!

Is this an issue that will cause a major problem and it should be fixed right away? The Government comes once a year during this time and sticks their hand in my pockets, so I'd like to put this off if possibe. When I crank it in the morning it sounds like it's pushing air like crazy. And the ticking sound is constant while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Another dealer did some recall work on the Commander today and I have a broken bolt on the left side and the right side manifold needs to be replaced according to them. The inconsistencies with these "dealers" is laughable. My father has owned a Japanese auto repair shop for 30 years and I've only driven Jap cars and never had to deal with taking a car to someone other than him. Until now. He refuses to work on the Jeep as he's busy enough with being a pain in my ass, ha!

With my lack of experience with dealing with retail dealers, should I expect to get completely different answers / quotes like this? No wonder the average consumer puts dealing with auto buying / repairs up there with going to the dentist. Goodyear said over $1200 because "everything was bad and needed to be replaced." I imagine they aren't kicking ass on their bottom line with management and quotes like that. He called me a liar when I told him what I was quoted by the dealer. The first dealer that looked at it told me it just needed the bolts replaced and it would be $300 a side to replace the bolts and now a second dealer (closer to the office that did the recall work) told me just under $900 because the right side is bad and the left side has a broken bolt.

Anyone in the Atlanta area want to make some money replacing this **** for me? HA!
 

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What does he mean by bad?????

Obviously, if a broken exhaust stud can be removed and replaced without removing anything else, that is far less labor and materials and thus cheaper. If the exhaust manifold gasket is burned, or the manifold cracked, etc then the labor, parts and materials went up a lot.

Sadly, Chrysler's Dealership is what is really dragging down the company. When the Gov took over, they closed half the dealerships and it really looked like they picked the dealerships on a "political" basis instead of a merit basis. Which only makes matters worse.

You do have to comparison shop. As well, something like a broken exhaust stud, most independent shops could do that job easily, so don't think you need to go to a dealership.
 

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So is there a better replacement bolt than the OEM ones, I plan on doing this down the road and would rather do it once... A site/link or parts number would be greatly appreciated. 5.7 Hemi is what I have.
 

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LABOR 1.00 100.00 Check exhaust leak cold, belt noise (squeal), tune condition, shocks, check engine light on
. . and he is having to add coolant.
. . Tech confirmed the coolant leak is the radiator that is leaking and will need to be replaced along
. . with thermostat and cooling system fluid flush. Belt noise was not heard today, recommended replacing
. . belt with OE. Check engine light is a 128 fault for coolant rationality fault, has seen 4 good trips
. . since last set, thermostat and coolant flush (above) will solve this. Tune up condition - Spark plugs
. . are factory, but they do not look OE, gap on plug is 0.62", specs 0.45". Maintenance interval is every
. . 30K on this rig, throttle body has some carbon build up, pcv valve looks to be original.
. . Exhaust leak is both the exhaust manifolds have broken bolts on them. Recommended replacing them
. . with all new hardware. Struts and shocks are currently not leaking all have some wear and tear on
. . but they pass a bounce test. Cost to replace struts, shocks - strut plates down the road is $750 to $1000
. . Recommended doing the exhaust , tune up, radiator and thermostat all at the same time by removing the
. . engine so manifolds are accessible $3500 and will take a couple days to complete.

Opinions?

Thanks!
 

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Recommended doing the exhaust , tune up, radiator and thermostat all at the same time by removing the engine so manifolds are accessible $3500 and will take a couple days to complete.
I'm no mechanic but.....

I don't think the engine should have to be pulled to complete this work - but maybe I'm wrong.

It sounds to me like this guy is seriously trying to boost the bill with extra unnecessary labor.
 

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I'm no mechanic but.....

I don't think the engine should have to be pulled to complete this work - but maybe I'm wrong.

It sounds to me like this guy is seriously trying to boost the bill with extra unnecessary labor.
Yeah, I second that. It is annoying, but super easy to get at all of them from under the car and through the wheel well.
The is a very good write up on doing this. You can even find a bunch of youtube videos on doing this job.

Dave
 

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LABOR 1.00 100.00 Check exhaust leak cold, belt noise (squeal), tune condition, shocks, check engine light on

Opinions?

Thanks!
If you can't do it yourself, find a reputable Jeep/Chrysler dealership and get a second opinion Jim.
 

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Yeah, I second that. It is annoying, but super easy to get at all of them from under the car and through the wheel well.
The is a very good write up on doing this. You can even find a bunch of youtube videos on doing this job.

Dave
I second this!

sounds to me like you just can't seem to find a good shop. stupid mechanic prices are the reason I started doing all my own stuff in the first place. If you don't know how, force yourself to learn. It's very handy knowledge to have with you for the rest of forever anyway. that's just my opinion and should be treated as such, as a stranger's opinion on a forum.
 

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I have replaced the manifold bolts on both sides on my Commander with the 5.7 Hemi and also with my Dodge Ram with the 4.7. It is a real pain but can be done without removing the engine. The best route is through the wheel well and underside. The engine mounts will have to be removed and the engine supported and somewhat raised to gain access. Be prepared for several hours on your back and a lot of fiddling with various extensions and using small 1/4 drive for removal after loosening bolts. The LH side will require lowering the lower a-arm mount from the chassis. Again removing the wheel well plastic covers and wheel will help quite a bit. The gasket system has been updated to prevent bolt failures and the bolt material has been changed as well. The original manifold gaskets were simple stainless steel sheet without any type of gasket material attached. With the bolts torqued and the engine hot the expansion exceeded the bolt ability to stretch so the heads of the bolts would pop off. The newer manifold gaskets are of a softer graphite type material and have some give to them when the engine is hot so it reduces the stress on the bolt heads. In most cases the bolts heads will have sheared off so removal is fairly easy as the shank of the bolt can be grasped with pliers and removed. Usually they are not tight in the block.
 
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