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Discussion Starter #1
i just picked up a 2006 XK Limited 5.7l w/ QDII.

It has a bit of "float" in the suspension I've never had in my prior Jeeps. That said, this Jeep is the heaviest of the seven I've owned but I'm assuming it's just due to soft springs and shocks due to having 100k miles.

So I was thinking... Should I replace the suspension with fresh factory suspension or maybe just replace with 1-2" lift springs?
 

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My .02...If you're entertaining incurring the cost of replacing the factory shocks/struts/springs there really isn't any reason not to lift it. Go OME HD with some bigger tires, make it look like it should have from the factory, and be done.
 

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Agree with Grand Poobah. Just be prepared to replace stuff when you do it. I lifted mine 2 months ago and still finding stuff to replace. Luckily I am seeing the light at the end with only a few more bushings to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, was kinda leaning toward the small lift as well given the effort/price anyway... just not sure I want a lift at all.

I'd probably learn toward OME. Have used their suspension products in the past and was pleased with the performance.

In terms of replacing things... given it's age and miles, I assume I'm going to replacing a few worn suspension parts at any rate, but I'm sure a lift would exacerbate the concern.
 

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Upper control arms, sway bar bushings, end links, and struts/shocks should improve things significantly. I replaced sway bar bushings & struts recently> made a big difference.
(i used MOOG poly bushings and bilstein 5100's set @ 1.5", which along with some stacked rear isolators leveled the Jeep out nicely)

I am still running stock springs, but many people have noticed improved ride and control with OME springs.
 

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My .02...If you're entertaining incurring the cost of replacing the factory shocks/struts/springs there really isn't any reason not to lift it. Go OME HD with some bigger tires, make it look like it should have from the factory, and be done.
Absolutely.

Before



After



An OME lift would be around an inch taller than my setup, my wife and kids are little, so more lift than that really wasn't a viable option for me without side steps.
 

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NOT trying to talk you out of a lift. BUT, its NOT likely your springs are shot after 100k miles, unless the suspension was abused to the point of damaging the springs.

I've had tires near their end of their tread life, make a vehicle feel like it was floating as well.

More likely just your strut/shocks are shot and maybe your sway bar bushings are shot as well, do an inspection and see if there is anything else that looks suspect.

If you're going to do a lift anyway, then by all means do it. But if you want the OEM ride back, it might just be a set of new struts/shocks and maybe swaybar bushings.
 

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NOT trying to talk you out of a lift. BUT, its NOT likely your springs are shot after 100k miles, unless the suspension was abused to the point of damaging the springs.

I've had tires near their end of their tread life, make a vehicle feel like it was floating as well.

More likely just your strut/shocks are shot and maybe your sway bar bushings are shot as well, do an inspection and see if there is anything else that looks suspect.

If you're going to do a lift anyway, then by all means do it. But if you want the OEM ride back, it might just be a set of new struts/shocks and maybe swaybar bushings.
I would have to agree, spring isolators, sway bar bushings, and shocks/struts would be plenty to get your ride back. That was all that I replaced as my springs are in fine shape @100k. But if your considering a lift anyways, then you may as well do it all @ once.

BTW my sway bar bushings appeared fine externally, but I had some front end noise, (rattling over small bumps/uneven road/railroad tracks etc) this persisted after the strut replacement and replacing the bushings fixed that. They are ~$10 @ rock auto for MOOG poly replacements. Further inspection of the inside of the original bushings show distortion on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good advice on the front end bases components. I'm not interested in rushing into a lift. Perhaps I'll start with new struts and swaybar bushings.

I've heard numerous reports of the knocking sound I observed being attributed to the swaybar bushings as the bushing opening on the OEM part is up against the frame.
 

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I've heard numerous reports of the knocking sound I observed being attributed to the swaybar bushings as the bushing opening on the OEM part is up against the frame.
No, the opening in the bushing for the bar wears and elongates, giving the bar room to move around. When you sway one side to the other, the bar goes from pushing on the bushing in one direction to the other, with the elongated opening, the bar moves within the opening and when it hits the end of the opening it "Thunks".

The sway bar does a lot to make the suspension feel tight and responsive to steering. If the swaybar is loose, it can make the suspension feel like its floating (other things can as well).

But if your getting a thunking sound if you sway from one side to the other, you need to replace the sway bar bushings. Do that and see if the suspension firms up for you.

As well, what brand/model and size tire do you have and how much wear is on them?
 

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Good advice on the front end bases components. I'm not interested in rushing into a lift. Perhaps I'll start with new struts and swaybar bushings.

I've heard numerous reports of the knocking sound I observed being attributed to the swaybar bushings as the bushing opening on the OEM part is up against the frame.
Sway bar bushings were a 15 minute job for me max. A jack was needed to lift the suspension enough to align the bolts when reinstalling (I did one at a time) the bolts, otherwise it wouldve been a nearly 5 minute job.

Another thought, how do your upper ball joints look?

Keep in mind when replacing the struts that depending on your future lift, you may need to replace them again if you go above a 2" lift depending on what you select now. I am a big fan of my Bilstein 5100's, and due to their adjustable spring perch you could level your vehicle out now with them (1.5") and set them on their lowest setting (.75") if/when you go with OME springs.

Alternatively Bilstein 4600HD works nicely with a stock height and OME lifted Jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Interesting note on the Bilstiens and their adjustability.

The tires on my XK are Nexen Roadian ATs. Brand new. Look like pretty decent tires, but I'm not familiar with them.

Looks like swaybar first. I need to inspect ball joints as well.

Though I've had a Jeep with IFS before, I'm still less familiar with IFS systems.
 

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Though I've had a Jeep with IFS before, I'm still less familiar with IFS systems.
Unfortunately, lift kits will NOT give you more suspension travel with an IFS system. It will increase you're ground clearance that can help off roading and will allow bigger tires, which can help off roading also.

Whether its the pucks or the OME longer springs, all you do on the IFS is trade jounce for rebound. You'll have more room for the tire to go up, but less room for the tire to go down. And if you get into uneven terrain that can negate any ride height/ground clearance you gained.

The rear live axle, with longer shocks, you might gain as much rebound as you do jounce with the pucks or OME longer springs. Don't know on the Blisten 4600's if they have more length than OEM rear shocks.

There are some replacement upper control arms (UCA), more so to replace broken UCA's with stronger aftermarket versions, the OEM UCA seems to be a weak point and heavy off-roading has broken them. There is a thread about a new aftermarket UCA that appears to be longer than OEM, perhaps that will allow a little more suspension travel, but I can't imagine much.
 

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I replaced my sway bar bushings at about 95,000 miles and it made a big difference. Going over bumps was much quieter. That being said I have about 108k miles now and the front seems to be lower then other stock XKs. I'd love to lift mine but its my DD so I'm leaning towards just installing some Billsteins
 

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Do the lift trust me you wont regret it, it makes a big difference on the way your jeep looks and it drives the same as stock.
 

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Welcome to the XK world. I have just installed the OME with OME shocks and struts this weekend. Full disclosure, I have the Overland and have NEVER liked the wallowy, isolated and disconnected "luxury" feel of the showroom suspension and I won't talk about the 18" ghetto wheels.

I've taken the opportunity of needing to put new tires on the '08 to do the suspension, new tires and wheels at the same time.

Immediately after installing the OME springs I received immediate gratification on just the leveling aspect of the suspension. It's no longer nose low and the stance is correct looking and appropriate for the Commander. Ride, same. Gone is the Mercury Mountaineer roll prone ride. I love it. YMMV. Bonus, I get about 2"+ of lift and that's always nice whether I stick with 245/65R17s when I swap the 17" wheels on there or not.
 

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Welcome to the XK world. I have just installed the OME with OME shocks and struts this weekend. Full disclosure, I have the Overland and have NEVER liked the wallowy, isolated and disconnected "luxury" feel of the showroom suspension and I won't talk about the 18" ghetto wheels.

I've taken the opportunity of needing to put new tires on the '08 to do the suspension, new tires and wheels at the same time.

Immediately after installing the OME springs I received immediate gratification on just the leveling aspect of the suspension. It's no longer nose low and the stance is correct looking and appropriate for the Commander. Ride, same. Gone is the Mercury Mountaineer roll prone ride. I love it. YMMV. Bonus, I get about 2"+ of lift and that's always nice whether I stick with 245/65R17s when I swap the 17" wheels on there or not.
Don't waste your time with the 245/65r17s! Look for some JK takeoffs in 255-75r17. I went with an aftermarket 18" wheel with 255/70r18's that I lucked in to on a craigslist deal (I was looking for 17's actually) and it is a huge improvement.
 

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Welcome to the XK world. I have just installed the OME with OME shocks and struts this weekend. Full disclosure, I have the Overland and have NEVER liked the wallowy, isolated and disconnected "luxury" feel of the showroom suspension and I won't talk about the 18" ghetto wheels.

I've taken the opportunity of needing to put new tires on the '08 to do the suspension, new tires and wheels at the same time.

Immediately after installing the OME springs I received immediate gratification on just the leveling aspect of the suspension. It's no longer nose low and the stance is correct looking and appropriate for the Commander. Ride, same. Gone is the Mercury Mountaineer roll prone ride. I love it. YMMV. Bonus, I get about 2"+ of lift and that's always nice whether I stick with 245/65R17s when I swap the 17" wheels on there or not.
I'm looking to do the same thing as you. I also have an Overland with 18s and want to lift with the OME HD kit.

Did it work out with the factory 18s ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looking at the OME kit... So it's literally just springs, rear shocks, and front struts?

No other bolts, swaybar extensions, anything?
 

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It only lifts the suspension 2", the OME kit is more than the others which are just pucks that increase the ride height. With kits that lift higher, you need to replace pieces like control arms and track bars to reposition the axle back toward where it should be. Independent suspension, you'd need replace control arms to give the suspension travel and/or do something about CV shaft angles that you'd take out of their usable range with more than a 2" lift.

Like I said before, longer shocks and springs in the rear, on the live axle, may get you more suspension travel. The front is independent suspension, you will get no additional travel, just trade rebound for some more jounce, so it rides higher.
 
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