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Discussion Starter #1
I have installed 2" Rustys kit, installed 1.25" spacers and Destination 265/70/17" tires.
I am getting some rub on the plastic inner fender plastic. I have read where several have had to trim the plastic. I also understand there is a body seam under that area that has to be flattened out.
A while back I saw someone that had posted pictures of that area after they had cut the plastic and hammered back the metal seam. Can't seem to find those photos now.
My question is can the plastic be pulled back exposing the metal seam so it can be hammered back and then put the plastic inner fender back in place so it dosen't have to be cut? I also read where someone used heat to re-shape the plastic out of the way. I am trying to avoid cutting the plastic.
Any advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks a bunch for finding those photos.
That's what I am trying to avoid but I don't know if it's possible. Maybe painted it wouldn't look so bad. I wonder if patching a piece of plastic back in there after the metal is bent would work?
 

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Heres a few pics of the trim job that I did. ... Also, You can remove those rivets, and place the plastic well back in with new rivets, but it will rub pretty bad on the plastic, it is probably better to cut it out. I was the one who posted about reshaping or bending the plastic, but it didn't really work out too well in the long run. What you see in these pics results in absolutely no rubbing issues on or off road.
I hope this helps.
Hemi
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the photos. It's hard to see from your photos but did you bend the metal flanges back? It looks like you cut out more plastic than the other guy did as all the hoses are exposed.
 

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Yes, I did bend the pinch weld back, I guess it is hard to see in the pics. The other guy, Phunkeydude, had to do less trimming because he has the 4" superlift, I have Rocky Road 2.25" lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
that makes sense.
What did you use to cut the plastic? How did you know exactly where the lines and wires were so you didn't cut them?
 

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You can see where everything is after pulling the plastic well out, you need to pull it to beat that seam down anyway, and also remove your tire, you really gotta have room to swing with a sledge to get that seam bent over flat. After pulling the rear 5 or 6 rivets, you can bend the whole plastic wheelwell way out from those hoses and wires and hammer and cut safely.

I used an xacto knife to score where I wanted to cut, then just broke it off by bending it. I cut a bit at a time, then placed the plastic back in place, checked the clearance....
And repeated the trimming a few times until it was right.

I also made a few foam rubber pads that are wrapped in duct tape and ziptied onto the fragile sensors and the exposed metal piping on the rear AC lines. This is to protect those items from a stray rock being thrown into them, as they are no longer protected by the plastic wheel well. I think you can see them in the pics....

Also, if you hammer that pinch weld back, make sure you wire wheel the area and heavily prime and paint it to prevent rust, you will knock a lot of paint off beating that SOB flat. Someone else said something about rubber undercoating spray, I think that would work really well, too
 

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Before doing the job you might want to turn the wheel all the way to the right/left to see where the tire rubs before cutting. My wheel well was dusty so I knew where I had to make the cut.

I did the same job as Hemi, but I didn't remove the rivets to take out the wheel well. I did not take the rivets because I didn't want to go and buy new ones because they are not replaceable. What I did was start cutting from the bottom (1) and had someone else pull up on the plastic that we are going to remove so I can get a better view of the lines. You will want to slow down cutting after the body weld is in sight (2). The only screw I removed is in the top right corner of the picture. By removing that screw it gives more flex on the plastic so you flex it around to work.

I was able to do a lot of the work because of Hemi's info. Cutting the plastic is the easy part. The hard part was hammering down the weld. Use a short handled sledge hammer...don't waste your time with anything else.

Sorry for the ugly ass photo editing. I only have Microsoft Paint on my work comp. :p

Picture is of the right front fender.
 

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SF- how are you liking the lift? have any rubbing after the clearance mods?
-hemi
 

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Discussion Starter #13
SF_JEEP said:
Before doing the job you might want to turn the wheel all the way to the right/left to see where the tire rubs before cutting. My wheel well was dusty so I knew where I had to make the cut.

I did the same job as Hemi, but I didn't remove the rivets to take out the wheel well. I did not take the rivets because I didn't want to go and buy new ones because they are not replaceable. What I did was start cutting from the bottom (1) and had someone else pull up on the plastic that we are going to remove so I can get a better view of the lines. You will want to slow down cutting after the body weld is in sight (2). The only screw I removed is in the top right corner of the picture. By removing that screw it gives more flex on the plastic so you flex it around to work.

I was able to do a lot of the work because of Hemi's info. Cutting the plastic is the easy part. The hard part was hammering down the weld. Use a short handled sledge hammer...don't waste your time with anything else.

Sorry for the ugly ass photo editing. I only have Microsoft Paint on my work comp. :p

Picture is of the right front fender.
Thanks for all the good info.
Are those air cond. line on the passenger side and are they for the rear air?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
YB Normyl said:
Yes, those are the A/C lines if you have the rear heat-A/C.
So if I don't have rear air then I shouldn't fine any obstuctions there?
What about wiring?
 

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Sup guys,, I just ordered kenda klever mt in 255 75 17 i have one inch spacers and 2" rc lift,
Do you think I'll have to trim more being that it's a 75 series and not a 70 like most of you?
Also does any trimming on the back plastic need done?
 

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Sup guys,, I just ordered kenda klever mt in 255 75 17 i have one inch spacers and 2" rc lift,
Do you think I'll have to trim more being that it's a 75 series and not a 70 like most of you?
Also does any trimming on the back plastic need done?
I did the same basic trimming on the front as listed above, no trimming on the rear. At full flex I can hear slight rubbing, but never had a problem.
 

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Sup guys,, I just ordered kenda klever mt in 255 75 17 i have one inch spacers and 2" rc lift,
Do you think I'll have to trim more being that it's a 75 series and not a 70 like most of you?
Also does any trimming on the back plastic need done?
I'm running 255/70r18 (same size as 255/75r17)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=255-75r17-255-70r18

I am only running 1.5" lift in the front, so I had some rubbing. Trimming the rear of the front wheel well pinch welds and 2 sheet metal screws to hold the plastic back fixed that right up.

Matt has done a great write up on this.
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?481896-Pinch-Weld-How-To

Way to pull up a post from 2007 BTW :grim:
 

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ok Sorry for this question now but I just want to be clear, you trimmed the plastic at the pinch weld and then screwed it down or you flattened the pinch weld and left the well intact .. thank you. And lol yea I figuredid actually take a min to see if my question had already been answered rather than just starting a new thread.

Thanks lucky7
 
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