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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I have just fitted a 2.5" rough country lift and now I'm getting a thumping sound from the front drivers side drive shaft under acceleration. I'm guessing it's worn and as it's at a different angle now it has brought this to light? My question is would replacing them sort the problem. Or should I be doing something else?
Secondly, are the WK driveshafts the same as the XK? Getting commander parts in the UK is hard, whereas grand cherokee is easy.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
When I say drive shafts, I think I mean the half shafts. Now they are at a different angle the drivers side seems to slip causing this knocking noises. It's only when accelerating hard or under load so would seem to me something is worn. Any help or pointers would be much appreciated as this isn't something I know anything about! Thanks
 

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Hi,

I have just fitted a 2.5" rough country lift and now I'm getting a thumping sound from the front drivers side drive shaft under acceleration. I'm guessing it's worn and as it's at a different angle now it has brought this to light? My question is would replacing them sort the problem. Or should I be doing something else?
Secondly, are the WK driveshafts the same as the XK? Getting commander parts in the UK is hard, whereas grand cherokee is easy.

Thanks.
@Tobester1985; Welcome to the forum;

Did you have a proper, professional alignment done after you had the Rough Country lift kit installed?

If not, that's where I'd start.

Also, Please read the New Member required Reading below;


Thanks and again, welcome aboard.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. Yes I'm going to get that done this week if possible. It seems strange as the side in question has been replaced by the previous owner.

Have read the attached new member reading.

Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated as I use this vehicle for heavy towing (I'm a Building Contractor) so needs to be sorted!
 

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Thanks. Yes I'm going to get that done this week if possible. It seems strange as the side in question has been replaced by the previous owner.

Have read the attached new member reading.

Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated as I use this vehicle for heavy towing (I'm a Building Contractor) so needs to be sorted!
You can't draw any real conclusions until you have an alignment done.

One may have nothing to do with the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok.

Just had all the wheel alignment done and it now drives as it should. Only problem is the whirring sound from the front driveshaft, louder on acceleration, stops on applying the brakes. Any advise on what to do next, is it worn out CV joints? Should I be looking at anything else like different drive shafts? I'm completely new to all this so treat me like an idiot!

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Personally, I would have had the guys that did the alignment give the CV joints and associated components the once over while they were down there, to see if they could spot anything else that looked obviously wrong.

I just read your profile and you said you only have 96,000 miles on your XK? Is that accurate?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi,

Yes, the service history back it up.

I think the garage that replaced the drive shaft just re greased it and fitted new boots, as it looks equally as old as the other one, if not it was a used part and was worn itself.

Been to the garage and theres some play in the driveshaft and the wheel bearing is shot too, so all in all not making nice noises. Will get these replaced and update you guy.

Load levelling shocks should turn up soon hopefully too.
 

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Hi,

Yes, the service history back it up.

I think the garage that replaced the drive shaft just re greased it and fitted new boots, as it looks equally as old as the other one, if not it was a used part and was worn itself.

Been to the garage and theres some play in the driveshaft and the wheel bearing is shot too, so all in all not making nice noises. Will get these replaced and update you guy.

Load levelling shocks should turn up soon hopefully too.
I'd get the front lower control arm bushings & front upper differential bushings checked as well;

Both are common points of wear & failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update:
Just had the new driveshaft and wheel bearing fitted but my mechanic has told me that running at the angle it is will just beat itself to death.

What am I missing here?

I have read everywhere that a 2" lift is fine on these trucks.

I measured the spacers and the rear is 2", the front 2.5, to level it I assume.

I'm stumped now if I'm honest on what to do next.
 

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Update:
Just had the new driveshaft and wheel bearing fitted but my mechanic has told me that running at the angle it is will just beat itself to death.

What am I missing here?

I have read everywhere that a 2" lift is fine on these trucks.

I measured the spacers and the rear is 2", the front 2.5, to level it I assume.

I'm stumped now if I'm honest on what to do next.
Plenty of people have run a 2" - 2 1/2" lift for years with no driveshaft problems, including me. However, you may want to get the JBA upper control arms that are made for a lifted Commander. The lift puts your upper control arm ball joint at an undesirable angle and the JBA will correct it.

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Discussion Starter #12
Plenty of people have run a 2" - 2 1/2" lift for years with no driveshaft problems, including me. However, you may want to get the JBA upper control arms that are made for a lifted Commander. The lift puts your upper control arm ball joint at an undesirable angle and the JBA will correct it.

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Just had a look, can only get them in the states. I'm in the uk so will cost a fortune, with no guarantee it will solve the problem I'm having. Is there a way to drop the diff an inch to level the drive shafts out a bit?
 

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Just had a look, can only get them in the states. I'm in the uk so will cost a fortune, with no guarantee it will solve the problem I'm having. Is there a way to drop the diff an inch to level the drive shafts out a bit?
I believe I did see a company that makes a drop bracket, but they are also in the US. Your other option is to get the 4" Superlift that comes with everything to put the suspension geometry back to OEM specs. I'm not sure if you can get the Superlift over there either.

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Discussion Starter #14
I believe I did see a company that makes a drop bracket, but they are also in the US. Your other option is to get the 4" Superlift that comes with everything to put the suspension geometry back to OEM specs.

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Yes I did briefly look at that, but the truck came with the 2" lift un fitted, and to be fair I don't want to go that high, plus that kit costs nearly what I paid for it! It will also push the towbar up to high for the trailer, the list of ball aches goes on!
 

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Yes I did briefly look at that, but the truck came with the 2" lift un fitted, and to be fair I don't want to go that high, plus that kit costs nearly what I paid for it! It will also push the towbar up to high for the trailer, the list of ball aches goes on!
Sorry, @Tobester1985.

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Discussion Starter #18
Is there a diff drop kit anyone knows of as this seems the sensible option to put things back where they want to be.
 

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Is there a diff drop kit anyone knows of as this seems the sensible option to put things back where they want to be.
This is the one I mentioned above and it is the ONLY one available for the Commander-->Front Differential Drop System Sadly, the Commander is poorly represented in the aftermarket parts business.

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The front drive shaft shouldn't be affected at all from your lift as the transfer case and front diff never moved. They do wear out over time just from age, even in stock form. The CV on the driveshaft at the transfer case end is a cheap and relatively easy replacement, but the front u-joint at the diff is not serviceable, so you gotta replace the whole shaft 😩 .
As far as CVs go....you should be fine with that lift and not dropping the diff. As stated before, lots of us run your lift or higher with no problems. The issue here is what CV's have been put in. Not all aftermarket CVs are made the same. The best shafts are still the OEM ones. I had an aftermarket on the right side that caused a lot of rubbing on the boot because it was made differently.....so i ended up repairing the old OEM shaft and put it back in, all is right over 5,000 miles later with 3.5" of lift. Further, the design of the actual CV joints in the OEM shafts is far superior than the design in aftermarket shafts- that's why there's such a huge price difference.

There are a number of potential new issues from dropping the diff, however. Jeeperf (the link in the last post) is the only company that makes a stand-alone diff drop; they actually make 2, but you really have to read their unnecessarily long "fine print" about the drops as far as mods needed what situations these drops can be used in.
First problem with dropping the diff- the driveshaft will now potentially make contact with a frame cross-member and maybe your exhaust. The Superlift kit requires cutting and welding of your frame to accept this.
Second problem is you are dropping the diff but NOT dropping the lower control arms. The Superlift drops both together. The issue that can arise here is now your CVs can come into contact with the lower control arm, especially at the bump where the lower strut mount bushing is.

This is all in theory, of course...I haven't tested any of this, but that's the thing with "piecing stuff together"--you never know until you know and you either wasted the money, or not. While that shop isn't completely wrong in telling you the CVs won't last, especially if they are aftermarket shafts....this isn't necessarily true, either.
 
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