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Discussion Starter #21
Oooh you got a beefy set up lol! I just got a little old 4.7 :(. Mine seems so sluggish anymore. Its so weird, like it has so little low end torque. I like knowing my bushings will last forever, but yep, that nvh is definitely there lol. Theirs are like hard plastic poly, when I ordered I thought they'd be like a shock absorber bushing poly, nope lol.

My vibes aren't there at cruise and coast, in fact cruising and coasting shes smooth as butter. Its under throttle the vibes show up a bit. I know that rear pinion is still off a bit, but I dont know how to get these control arms adjusted for that yet :(. Every since I put them in that vibration is there. You checked all your control arm bushings? Especially the rear?
All my front control arm bushings, top and bottom are maybe a year old. I replaced everything when I did my lift; even ball joints, tie rods and sway bar links. It's just the diff mounts that are well aged now (if you can consider 5 years "well aged"). The rears are still the original OEM stuff, except the sway bar links, but I can tell the rear is still smooth. All the new nvh is definitely from the front half, and i KNOW it's because of the new front shaft, nothing in the rear...it drove smooth on the freeway at 80+ for 3 hours just 2 days before I installed the shaft. And the jeep was parked for those 2 days. Knowing that the shaft is heavier, etc etc, I just need to figure out where this weight is finding slack to move around in....another thing is possibly having the shaft out of phase. Like how you're supposed to mark the shaft to the pinion and tcase flange before removing so you can put it back in the same position...can't do that with a new shaft. I've always wondered how much of a difference that makes, but it's still a driveline vibration term and type....so....maybe? I doubt a new front shaft would cause new nvh because of something in the rear...

I'd bet you not having your rear control arms set right yet could be your problem. You might have the rear u-joints at different angles? The transfer case output and axle pinion need to be perfectly parallel to each other.
Like this:

...Assuming you didn't get a double cardan rear shaft as well (which would need different angles than the two joint shaft setup).

With new nvh causing problems over time, I found this on a Tom Woods article about Vibrations, "These vibrations, over time, will create fatigue failures. I would recommend that the source/s of the problem be diagnosed and corrected. If this is a Wrangler or TJ,.with any lift, installed or planned, one of the good tail shaft conversions (Currie), CV drive shaft and adjustable trailing arms be installed. Anything less will be simply "batting your head against the wall", expecting a summary failure that may make the conversion seem cheap by comparison. "

I know any serious vibrations will eventually wear something out, it's just a question of how long it will take and what will fail.....ugh. All the more reason I want to start figuring this out as soon as I can, which I don't have the most free time to do...I saw THIS POST by @Up4XK which doens't make me very confident about my situation, lol....馃槱
 

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My vibrations come from when I floor it, all other times it's fine, coast has no bad vibrations, normal gas pedaling has no bad vibrations. I would like to jump freeway without the vibrations, but even Superlift said vibrations occur in our vehicles.
My biggest concern now is finding my thuds lol. The shops here replaced my front left inner tie rod end twice now, it still makes steering noise when turning the wheels sllllowwly or at a stop, and if I grab the inner tie rod I can ever slightly move it up and down with the sound metal tapping metal.
 

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The shops all said im set right, I dont have much confidence in them though. Its like they never see these lifted and they don't want to touch them lol. I did double cardan the rear end as well as front, that poooor transfer case with two heavy driveshafts lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
My vibrations come from when I floor it, all other times it's fine, coast has no bad vibrations, normal gas pedaling has no bad vibrations. I would like to jump freeway without the vibrations, but even Superlift said vibrations occur in our vehicles.
My biggest concern now is finding my thuds lol. The shops here replaced my front left inner tie rod end twice now, it still makes steering noise when turning the wheels sllllowwly or at a stop, and if I grab the inner tie rod I can ever slightly move it up and down with the sound metal tapping metal.
Well, that's not too serious, then...still annoying, for sure, though! I'm not really sure what all that could be. Vibes under load only could be almost anything, possibly not even driveline related. could be engine, trans or transfer case diff? With all the added new stress (engine mods, bigger tires, heavier driveshafts...etc).
I crawled back under mine again this morning to poke and prod some more. My tcase output has almost no up and down slack, def not enough to allow as much nvh as I have. BUT, I can push up on the middle to front of the shaft and the whole front diff definitely lifts up. So I'm really hoping replacing those bushing fixes my problem...it'll be next weekend before I can tackle that nightmare, though.

Thuds mean slack somewhere, lol. What parts/assemblies aren't new? The thuds going over bumps could be the same issue as your steering noise. Possibly rack and pinion internals. Have you tried to tighten the e-torx bolt on the steering housing? Opposite where the steering wheel shaft ties in. It's not easy...usually really damn tight, i kinda stripped mine out, without being able to tighten it, but a lot of WK guys say that fixed their steering slack/noise, etc. with just a 1/4 turn. But you could have worn bushings/internals being able to move the tie rods up and down with metal contact noises....

The shops all said im set right, I dont have much confidence in them though. Its like they never see these lifted and they don't want to touch them lol. I did double cardan the rear end as well as front, that poooor transfer case with two heavy driveshafts lol.
Right, I thought I remember you sayin you had a double cardan rear as well, just couldn't remember. In that case, the axle geometry should be much different, like this:

So check and see if your axle is straight in line with the shaft, that will make a huge difference if not!
 

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My tcase has minimal "slop" I guess you would say. Like the normal 1/8-1/4in slight movement i would say, maybe? Thats been there for always thought too. Sounds like it's DEFINITELY that front bushing. You should go poly, with all your mods you wouldn't hear it lol. And they are easy as hell to install 馃檭

No, my rear driveshaft doesn't point up like that. Can we even mod our rear end to do that? I mean the rear control arms are stock length right now, I guess I could see leaving the lowers that length and drawing out the uppers a bit more may angle it?

My tie rod ends have never had ANY play, then they replaced that driver inner and they have play all of a sudden. I thought about working to tighten that etorx, but im pretty confident that's not the issue. I read somewhere a while back that when you use pucks/blocks above struts to lift that it sometimes creates a thud. Just trying to see if thats what it is. Its carried on for years, never any different or worse no matter 2 inch lift, modified 4 inch lift, or the superlift. Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
My tcase has minimal "slop" I guess you would say. Like the normal 1/8-1/4in slight movement i would say, maybe? Thats been there for always thought too. Sounds like it's DEFINITELY that front bushing. You should go poly, with all your mods you wouldn't hear it lol. And they are easy as hell to install 馃檭

No, my rear driveshaft doesn't point up like that. Can we even mod our rear end to do that? I mean the rear control arms are stock length right now, I guess I could see leaving the lowers that length and drawing out the uppers a bit more may angle it?

My tie rod ends have never had ANY play, then they replaced that driver inner and they have play all of a sudden. I thought about working to tighten that etorx, but im pretty confident that's not the issue. I read somewhere a while back that when you use pucks/blocks above struts to lift that it sometimes creates a thud. Just trying to see if thats what it is. Its carried on for years, never any different or worse no matter 2 inch lift, modified 4 inch lift, or the superlift. Lol.
My tcase front output definitely has less than a 1/4", lol. MAYBE as much as an 1/8", 1/16" or less...it's pretty tight. I wasn't ever worried about poly bushing noise, just poly bushing FEEL. I'm trying to keep it all soft and smooth, lol. The poly mounts on my XJ allowed me to feel EVERYTHING and I was not a huge fan of that...Knowing the non-poly mounts won't last forever, as long as the Mopar ones I ordered last 10 years or so like the original ones did, I'll be OK with that.

I don't know about re-angling our rear driveshafts like that, lol. Definitely can't do it with stock arms. I would assume you gotta do some extending and shortening of the adjustable arms you have, but I don't know the range of adjustment you have on them. Make the bottoms short and the tops long! But....now the spring perches aren't flat and not sure what that'll do to the sway bar and links, lol.....when I did this stuff on one of my XJs it was with a full axle swap, so I was re-welding all the mounts on the axle tubes and could easily over-come those concerns...no end to things once we depart from stock 馃槱

Even though i don't have a spacer lift, I did have lots of new front end noise that eventually went away. Some of it was because the top nut on the struts weren't tight, I had to re-torque them a few times. and the hole in the body where the top of the strut comes through wasn't big enough to allow for the extra movement of a taller strut, so the strut was actually hanging, rubbing and knocking on the body until i cut those holes bigger. With the spacers you won't have that issue, but the top nut not being tight anymore? or maybe rubbing on the inside of spacer?
 

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I'll take a look, I meant to type 1/16 - 1/8 lol. 1/4 would be too much lol. I'll take a look-see. The thud feels more like drivetain and not suspension, almost like the differential moves from one side to the other even though its bolted up snug and tight.

Hopefully those Mopar bushings help you out with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
What size is that etorx, 20?
Ya, E20.

If i remember right, i had tried to use whatever the 12pt (or 6? I don't remember now) metric socket is that鈥檚 close, which some people have had success with. I was impatient and didn鈥檛 want to buy a whole e-torx set just to attempt this....well, the 12pt kinda stripped it out so when i got the e-torx set i couldnt do anything anymore 馃檮. Soooo, now i鈥檒l never know, lol. I dont have any noises, and if there鈥檚 any slack it鈥檚 not enough to bother me, but i鈥檒l never know if it could be 鈥渢ighter鈥 without replacing the whole rack now.
I did hear that people would accidentally over tighten, so their steering wouldnt return to center on it鈥檚 own. So, just do like 1/4 turns at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I'll pick up a socket, won't hurt. Oreillys has a 3/8 e20 for $5 馃ぃ
nice, i don't think i had that option for whatever reason and had to order it....which led to me trying to cut corners and use the wrong thing 馃槖
 

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nice, i don't think i had that option for whatever reason and had to order it....which led to me trying to cut corners and use the wrong thing 馃槖
More often than not, that usually doesn't end well.....
 

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Discussion Starter #33
More often than not, that usually doesn't end well.....
Lol...yuuup. I only attempted it because a couple people actually had success doing that. Shoulda鈥 known that never works out for me, lol. Nothing is destroyed, tho. My steering is still fine, i tried messing with the rack back when i had a lot of other 鈥渘ew lift鈥 noises that have all since been remedied. Wasn鈥檛 sure back then if the rack was a culprit or not.
 

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Lol...yuuup. I only attempted it because a couple people actually had success doing that. Shoulda鈥 known that never works out for me, lol. Nothing is destroyed, tho. My steering is still fine, i tried messing with the rack back when i had a lot of other 鈥渘ew lift鈥 noises that have all since been remedied. Wasn鈥檛 sure back then if the rack was a culprit or not.
I'm not busting your chops at all here, so, please don't take it that way;

I learned quite a number of years ago, that if I'm not 100% confident that I can tackle a job and do it properly - I won't even attempt it.

I know what my limitations are & because I do, I've saved myself a lot of time & aggravation.

Props to you for even tackling a job like this - I wouldn't even consider it - unless I had someone with a real mechanics know-how and background by my side, that could help me when I needed it.
 
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Discussion Starter #35
I'm not busting your chops at all here, so, please don't take it that way;

I learned quite a number of years ago, that if I'm not 100% confident that I can tackle a job and do it properly - I won't even attempt it.

I know what my limitations are & because I do, I've saved myself a lot of time & aggravation.

Props to you for even tackling a job like this - I wouldn't even consider it - unless I had someone with a real mechanics know-how and background by my side, that could help me when I needed it.
Ha, no worries, Blue! None taken!
 

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Maybe its just something I'm feeling from those poly bushings in all honesty. Lol. I never know. My dad always says I have that lime disease or whatever its called because every quirk and squeak annoys me to the core. :(. Ugh lol. As much work as I've done now there are a few internal that just won't go away, its so horrible lol.

Socket arrived today ill probably try it out tonight hopefully. I know steering is fairly tight still but also doesn't return all the way to center so ill do little turns. Could be it. Never know :).
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Maybe its just something I'm feeling from those poly bushings in all honesty. Lol. I never know. My dad always says I have that lime disease or whatever its called because every quirk and squeak annoys me to the core. :(. Ugh lol. As much work as I've done now there are a few internal that just won't go away, its so horrible lol.

Socket arrived today ill probably try it out tonight hopefully. I know steering is fairly tight still but also doesn't return all the way to center so ill do little turns. Could be it. Never know :).
It could be....since I have no idea how bad your nvh actually is, and it's all speculative for each person, lol! I have the same "lime disease" problem, though. Every tiny thing on anything annoys me...and i just want it all to work or be correct! Ugh...I end up just making it all worse on myself with such high expectations of everything.
My diff bushings just got here....wish I didn't have to wait until the weekend to get them in. I want to make sure these'll take care of my vibrations! Driving around town everything's so smooth as long as I stay under 65. I'd never know or care if I never took the Jeep on the interstate....too bad it's our trailer hauler and family road-trip vehicle 馃槃

The socket is a little tricky to get on, you have almost no clearance with the front frame cross member that's right there. If you got a deep socket, it probably won't fit at all. Some people said they had to loosen the 2 big bolts that hold the rack to the frame so they could rotate it up a little for more clearance. I was able to get the socket on just by itself (I got shallow, standard depth sockets), then attach a short extension to get you out from the frame to attach a ratchet or bar.
If your steering won't return to center, I would assume it's already as tight as you need it to be, if not too tight! But, I'm curious to hear what you get figured out!
 

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Its odd if they fix it, but that could just be it only one way to find out once you install em lol.

I'll probably tackle the bolt this weekend when its light out, I dont like working out in the dark apartment lot lol. I also have to squeeze a grease gun into some weird places lol. Crappy crap. Yeah I get lots of NVH, but oh well shes an awesome 4.7 :).
 

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Its odd if they fix it, but that could just be it only one way to find out once you install em lol.

I'll probably tackle the bolt this weekend when its light out, I dont like working out in the dark apartment lot lol. I also have to squeeze a grease gun into some weird places lol. Crappy crap. Yeah I get lots of NVH, but oh well shes an awesome 4.7 :).
2008 & later 4.7L's run great.
 
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