I didnt know 3rd row was an option, i thought they were standard on the XKs. So you don't have the 3rd HVAC either then? That makes a lot of normal tire clearance issues up front MUCH easier for you, then!Oh yeah, number one reason I was happy I got an 08! . Wish I would have got sunroofs and factory 3rd row but grabbed what I could .
Hahaha, that sounds about right...I warned you it'd be tricky! I Don't think it's actually meant to be a service point, more something used during assembly. So our access to it while on the vehicle wasn't really ever intended...Who in the HELL invented the position of the steering rack adjustment bolt on these?? I have to find a grinder somewhere and shave down this 3/8 e20etorx socket lol. Just spent an hour and a half trying to get it finessed through there lol. Have to use a wobble extension (I'm HORRIBLE with those). Then I finally got it on and as soon as I started to turn it it slipped off and can't get it back on lol. Oh well waiting for this weekend to try to do it in daylight.
I had the same thought about re-indexing the driveshaft....they come completely balanced. So, at first, to me, it doesn't really make sense. But, there's a whole page or two (or more...) in the FSM about balancing the drive shafts via re-indexing and proper procedure to use pipe clamps as counter weights. I also read a few different pages on the webs about re-indexing shafts, even new ones, to help with vibrations....so I figured I'd give it a shot since I'd already taken it off the diff.The first time I did differential bushings I just used a socket and a hammer to get the old ones out and new ones in lol. The second time was a ball joint press and a socket since the press didn't have the right tools (definitely used an impact on the press ) I miss having a garage 😳😳🥺🥺. I wonder what flipping the drive shaft has to do with the vibrations though. I mean if its new what does it matter which bolt goes where. I think the old is kind of balanced therein from the wear and thats the purpose of marking?
For the e20 ima check out Napa...getting in to the bolt wasn't hard. But because of the width of the socket its hard to get it on over the little rise there. So a thinner socket or shave it down on a grinder and it should go right on. Wish I had a 1/4" gimbal.
Yup....that's my understanding of it all....So simply unbolting the driveshaft and moving it 90 degrees and reattaching could get rid of vibranious headaches? Hrm thats very interesting. Ive never marked when I took mine off unfortunately except a couple of times lol. I'll have to remember that. Thankfully there's only 4 bolts on the tcase connections so re indexing would be easy enough.
Did you have to drop your tcase bracket mount to pull yours out and put it in?
I read about not being able to squeeze the shaft out/in too, but thankfully, was able to get enough slip shaft compression to do so without removing the crossmember. There was a fair amount of push/pull/cussing involved though.I do have to drop the tcase crossmember to remove the front driveshaft. I have a lot less clearance up there, though, because of my exhaust. I have 4 header pipes that wrap around and join into 1 right at the driveshaft. But, I don't think I could get the shaft off with the stock exhaust either....
Maybe that's why I remembered being able to get it out when i still had stock exhaust...i forgot about being able to compress the shaft. No way that'll work for me now, though, lolI read about not being able to squeeze the shaft out/in too, but thankfully, was able to get enough slip shaft compression to do so without removing the crossmember. There was a fair amount of push/pull/cussing involved though.
I would agree thats probably easier, only assuming you dont have to worry about breaking rusted bolts.I think its a shorter amount of time to just bottle jack hold the transmission up and just impact the sockets off than deal with the headache of trying to wiggle it around right . Lol. I tried to wiggle my stock shaft out and had noooo luck after hours of cursing and play. But I hope I don't have to take it apart again anytime soon lol.
I think its a shorter amount of time to just bottle jack hold the transmission up and just impact the sockets off than deal with the headache of trying to wiggle it around right . Lol. I tried to wiggle my stock shaft out and had noooo luck after hours of cursing and play. But I hope I don't have to take it apart again anytime soon lol.
Yup....agreed on both accounts. I've dropped that crossmember so many times now it's just quicker and much easier. I put a ton of anti-seize on all the bolts a while back to make sure I never had any future issues. The ends of the threads are exposed on a lot of the bolts, so lots of corrosion/dirt/trash opportunity there...I've learned to start anti-seizing almost everything external that I take off on this Jeep, lol...I've had too many close calls and just as many lost causes (cough lower control arm clevis bolt cough). There's also a lot of mixed metal types with various fasteners and that always makes me leery...like steel bolts into aluminum...😬I would agree thats probably easier, only assuming you dont have to worry about breaking rusted bolts.