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Oh yeah, number one reason I was happy I got an 08! :). Wish I would have got sunroofs and factory 3rd row but grabbed what I could :).
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Oh yeah, number one reason I was happy I got an 08! :). Wish I would have got sunroofs and factory 3rd row but grabbed what I could :).
I didnt know 3rd row was an option, i thought they were standard on the XKs. So you don't have the 3rd HVAC either then? That makes a lot of normal tire clearance issues up front MUCH easier for you, then!
 

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Who in the HELL invented the position of the steering rack adjustment bolt on these?? I have to find a grinder somewhere and shave down this 3/8 e20etorx socket lol. Just spent an hour and a half trying to get it finessed through there lol. Have to use a wobble extension (I'm HORRIBLE with those). Then I finally got it on and as soon as I started to turn it it slipped off and can't get it back on lol. Oh well waiting for this weekend to try to do it in daylight.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Who in the HELL invented the position of the steering rack adjustment bolt on these?? I have to find a grinder somewhere and shave down this 3/8 e20etorx socket lol. Just spent an hour and a half trying to get it finessed through there lol. Have to use a wobble extension (I'm HORRIBLE with those). Then I finally got it on and as soon as I started to turn it it slipped off and can't get it back on lol. Oh well waiting for this weekend to try to do it in daylight.
Hahaha, that sounds about right...I warned you it'd be tricky! I Don't think it's actually meant to be a service point, more something used during assembly. So our access to it while on the vehicle wasn't really ever intended...
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Well, I ended up having my afternoon open up yesterday so I decided to tackle those diff bushings early....doing them a second time wasn't quite as bad since I came in prepared, but it still wasn't fun. Fighting them out and fighting them back in....I even tried some methods I didn't on the first time, like freezing the new bushings. Ultimately, the job only sucks because of lack of the proper tools. But the proper tools are really expensive dealership stuff, so an air hammer/chisel and a ball joint press with creative use of parts from other tools gets it done...
When I was putting everything back together I decided to re-index the driveshaft 90° from where I had it attached before.

Took it for a drive, and all my vibes are almost completely gone now! Much more tolerable. If this is how the shaft would have felt when I first installed it, I never would have even noticed a difference. The vibes are still there, but there are soooo minor that I can only notice since I know what they felt like before. If someone else were to drive it, they'd never notice anything.
So I don't know if just rotating the shaft did it, just the bushings, or the combination of both....but whatever, I'm totally happy with it all now!

Also, the bushings that came out had all the same numbers and markings that the OEM new ones did....so now I'm wondering if I actually put Mopars in last time and not Crowns. Either way, if I get another 5 years out of these, so be it...with my nvh solved I can reconsider poly bushings in 5 years, lol.
I ran across another bushing option that is suggested for the SRT guys- HHP Front Diff Housing Bushing it's almost all metal so probably REALLY robust. It's suggested by HHP to only install ONE of these bushings at the pinion mounting (the one that gets the most stress anyways) and use something different on the other 2 points.
They also sell an aluminum and a carbon fiber front driveshafts, lol....if you got a spare $700- $1000 laying around 😂 Of course, at that price, they do still keep the rzeppa joint 🙄 but, I guess it's better for street and stock angles, anyways.
 

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The first time I did differential bushings I just used a socket and a hammer to get the old ones out and new ones in lol. The second time was a ball joint press and a socket since the press didn't have the right tools (definitely used an impact on the press :)) I miss having a garage 😳😳🥺🥺. I wonder what flipping the drive shaft has to do with the vibrations though. I mean if its new what does it matter which bolt goes where. I think the old is kind of balanced therein from the wear and thats the purpose of marking?

For the e20 ima check out Napa...getting in to the bolt wasn't hard. But because of the width of the socket its hard to get it on over the little rise there. So a thinner socket or shave it down on a grinder and it should go right on. Wish I had a 1/4" gimbal.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
The first time I did differential bushings I just used a socket and a hammer to get the old ones out and new ones in lol. The second time was a ball joint press and a socket since the press didn't have the right tools (definitely used an impact on the press :)) I miss having a garage 😳😳🥺🥺. I wonder what flipping the drive shaft has to do with the vibrations though. I mean if its new what does it matter which bolt goes where. I think the old is kind of balanced therein from the wear and thats the purpose of marking?

For the e20 ima check out Napa...getting in to the bolt wasn't hard. But because of the width of the socket its hard to get it on over the little rise there. So a thinner socket or shave it down on a grinder and it should go right on. Wish I had a 1/4" gimbal.
I had the same thought about re-indexing the driveshaft....they come completely balanced. So, at first, to me, it doesn't really make sense. But, there's a whole page or two (or more...) in the FSM about balancing the drive shafts via re-indexing and proper procedure to use pipe clamps as counter weights. I also read a few different pages on the webs about re-indexing shafts, even new ones, to help with vibrations....so I figured I'd give it a shot since I'd already taken it off the diff.
The idea is that it's various vibration sources combining. Normal (as in, no bad parts like wheel hubs or u-joints, or bad angles) vibrations start at every cylinder fire, then progress and gain through everything else happening in the entire engine/trans/drivetrain. So, as things stack and multiply they become more obvious. Rotating the heavier shaft a little bit misaligns vibration sources that were stacked.

Then again....re-indexing might not have done anything and the problem was all in the diff bushings 🤷‍♂️ ......the woes of doing multiple fix attempts at the same time, lol. Which one worked? whatever...it's fixed. 🥳
 
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So simply unbolting the driveshaft and moving it 90 degrees and reattaching could get rid of vibranious headaches? Hrm thats very interesting. Ive never marked when I took mine off unfortunately except a couple of times lol. I'll have to remember that. Thankfully there's only 4 bolts on the tcase connections so re indexing would be easy enough.

Did you have to drop your tcase bracket mount to pull yours out and put it in?
 

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I know all about the woes of fixing multiple things at the same time. I did so much front end and rear end suspension work and parts replacements that its been a nightmare tracing every thud thump and ting. Note to self: Do not do differential bushings, cv axles, wheel hubs, control arms, control arm bushings, new driveshafts, struts springs and new isolators etc. All at once. Man has it had me chasing:)
 

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Discussion Starter #51
So simply unbolting the driveshaft and moving it 90 degrees and reattaching could get rid of vibranious headaches? Hrm thats very interesting. Ive never marked when I took mine off unfortunately except a couple of times lol. I'll have to remember that. Thankfully there's only 4 bolts on the tcase connections so re indexing would be easy enough.

Did you have to drop your tcase bracket mount to pull yours out and put it in?
Yup....that's my understanding of it all....
Here's a shot of the FSM I just grabbed. I boxed the most obvious parts:
41866

It's worded weird, but I think it's trying to say to rotate the front shaft 45° at a time and the rear 90° at a time. The 45° holes on my pinion flange have never been used, so instead of cleaning up those threads I just went straight to a 90° change. Also, I did not unbolt and re-index the tcase output end, I only remounted the diff end...


I do have to drop the tcase crossmember to remove the front driveshaft. I have a lot less clearance up there, though, because of my exhaust. I have 4 header pipes that wrap around and join into 1 right at the driveshaft. But, I don't think I could get the shaft off with the stock exhaust either....
 

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I do have to drop the tcase crossmember to remove the front driveshaft. I have a lot less clearance up there, though, because of my exhaust. I have 4 header pipes that wrap around and join into 1 right at the driveshaft. But, I don't think I could get the shaft off with the stock exhaust either....
I read about not being able to squeeze the shaft out/in too, but thankfully, was able to get enough slip shaft compression to do so without removing the crossmember. There was a fair amount of push/pull/cussing involved though.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I read about not being able to squeeze the shaft out/in too, but thankfully, was able to get enough slip shaft compression to do so without removing the crossmember. There was a fair amount of push/pull/cussing involved though.
Maybe that's why I remembered being able to get it out when i still had stock exhaust...i forgot about being able to compress the shaft. No way that'll work for me now, though, lol
 
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I think its a shorter amount of time to just bottle jack hold the transmission up and just impact the sockets off than deal with the headache of trying to wiggle it around right :(. Lol. I tried to wiggle my stock shaft out and had noooo luck after hours of cursing and play. But I hope I don't have to take it apart again anytime soon lol.
 

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I think its a shorter amount of time to just bottle jack hold the transmission up and just impact the sockets off than deal with the headache of trying to wiggle it around right :(. Lol. I tried to wiggle my stock shaft out and had noooo luck after hours of cursing and play. But I hope I don't have to take it apart again anytime soon lol.
I would agree thats probably easier, only assuming you dont have to worry about breaking rusted bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I think its a shorter amount of time to just bottle jack hold the transmission up and just impact the sockets off than deal with the headache of trying to wiggle it around right :(. Lol. I tried to wiggle my stock shaft out and had noooo luck after hours of cursing and play. But I hope I don't have to take it apart again anytime soon lol.
I would agree thats probably easier, only assuming you dont have to worry about breaking rusted bolts.
Yup....agreed on both accounts. I've dropped that crossmember so many times now it's just quicker and much easier. I put a ton of anti-seize on all the bolts a while back to make sure I never had any future issues. The ends of the threads are exposed on a lot of the bolts, so lots of corrosion/dirt/trash opportunity there...I've learned to start anti-seizing almost everything external that I take off on this Jeep, lol...I've had too many close calls and just as many lost causes (cough lower control arm clevis bolt cough). There's also a lot of mixed metal types with various fasteners and that always makes me leery...like steel bolts into aluminum...😬
 

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I'm going to knock on wood here, i haven't had any rusted bolts that are too bad. Granted I've had the impacts for the clevis bolt, outside of that one my brake caliper bolts are the only rusted lol.
 

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you dont have to remove crossmember, just loosen bolts more on driver side to give enough room to slip the shaft out...
 
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