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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a rocky road 2.25" lift installed and after getting it back it now makes a popping or clunking noise over large bumps. I looked under the car and it looks like there are new scratches on the front right strut assembly and the only difference I can see between the left and right side is that the sway bar end link on the right side isn't flush with the end link. Since the bolt on the right side is longer, and sits close to the strut I thought that could be what is making the noise and causing the scratches. I have no time to take it in anywhere before I have to drive 8 hours tomorrow so I was wondering if there was anyway of possibly fixing this at home? I'd post pictures but I don't think I'm allowed yet
 

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Sorry, I don't have an answer for you. Try to reply to more threads so that you can post a pic of it though.

After a spacer lift on my TJ, the sway bar shifted and a bolt would hit a frame section. Did it for years. It was a wrangler, I just dealt w the clunk. Eventually it wore a spot in that frame section. Hopefully someone here has an answer for you.
 

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I had this on my '06. More times than not, it's the sway bar. You could disconnect it then drive around and see if it fixes the prob. New bushings might be needed.

I drove around without mine for a couple of years.
 

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I just got a rocky road 2.25" lift installed and after getting it back it now makes a popping or clunking noise over large bumps. I looked under the car and it looks like there are new scratches on the front right strut assembly and the only difference I can see between the left and right side is that the sway bar end link on the right side isn't flush with the end link. Since the bolt on the right side is longer, and sits close to the strut I thought that could be what is making the noise and causing the scratches. I have no time to take it in anywhere before I have to drive 8 hours tomorrow so I was wondering if there was anyway of possibly fixing this at home? I'd post pictures but I don't think I'm allowed yet
Read this thread---> http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/53-suspension-lifts/10294-rough-country-clunk.html .

.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had this on my '06. More times than not, it's the sway bar. You could disconnect it then drive around and see if it fixes the prob. New bushings might be needed.

I drove around without mine for a couple of years.


Mine was clunking pretty bad before I lifted it and I put new sway bar bushings on and didn't have a problem after that. This seems to be a much louder noise. Almost popping instead of clunking. It's really bothering me though and I don't know what to do. Already spent more than I'd like to on the lift/tires and repairs lol. Still not sure why the front end sits higher
 

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Mine was clunking pretty bad before I lifted it and I put new sway bar bushings on and didn't have a problem after that. This seems to be a much louder noise. Almost popping instead of clunking. It's really bothering me though and I don't know what to do. Already spent more than I'd like to on the lift/tires and repairs lol. Still not sure why the front end sits higher
Pics would be helpful;

I believe the RR lift - like the RC lift is designed to be a leveling lift, which means it's designed to raise the front end more than the rear and level out your Commander to get rid of the factory, nose down stance.

I'm guessing your Commander is probably sitting level now - but because you aren't used to seeing it that way, you think the nose is sitting high - because it is sitting much higher now than you are accustomed to seeing.

I can tell you straight away to get your front upper differential bushing checked.

This is a known and common point of wear on both Commanders and Grand Cherokees alike and can cause the kind of clunking noise you are describing.

If your front upper differential bushing was already worn and you were hearing noise - the new sway bar bushings may have been just enough to temporarily band-aid the problem, while you still had the stock suspension/stance.

When you added the new RR lift into the equation, it was probably enough of a suspension stress/geometry change to get the front upper differential bushing to start making noise again.

I'm just speculating here, but, it sounds plausible to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine was clunking pretty bad before I lifted it and I put new sway bar bushings on and didn't have a problem after that. This seems to be a much louder noise. Almost popping instead of clunking. It's really bothering me though and I don't know what to do. Already spent more than I'd like to on the lift/tires and repairs lol. Still not sure why the front end sits higher
Pics would be helpful;

I believe the RR lift - like the RC lift is designed to be a leveling lift, which means it's designed to raise the front end more than the rear and level out your Commander to get rid of the factory, nose down stance.

I'm guessing your Commander is probably sitting level now - but because you aren't used to seeing it that way, you think the nose is sitting high - because it is sitting much higher now than you are accustomed to seeing.

I can tell you straight away to get your front upper differential bushing checked.

This is a known and common point of wear on both Commanders and Grand Cherokees alike and can cause the kind of clunking noise you are describing.

If your front upper differential bushing was already worn and you were hearing noise - the new sway bar bushings may have been just enough to temporarily band-aid the problem, while you still had the stock suspension/stance.

When you added the new RR lift into the equation, it was probably enough of a suspension stress/geometry change to get the front upper differential bushing to start making noise again.

I'm just speculating here, but, it sounds plausible to me.

If you're referring to the front axle bushings I just got those replaced.

These are the struts that the mechanic replaced when I needed new struts about a year ago. Im not sure if those could affect the way it sits.

http://m.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/shock-strut-front/sensen-loaded-strut-shock-strut-front/jeep/commander/766008_239361_18474?location=

The front right upper control arm seems to be pushing grease out of both the top and bottom of the boot but the mechanic told me this was normal. I'm about to lose my mind over this. It's been one thing after another
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, I don't think I can post pictures yet but measured the front and rear from several different places and it looks like the front is sitting 1.5" higher than the rear
 

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Also, I don't think I can post pictures yet but measured the front and rear from several different places and it looks like the front is sitting 1.5" higher than the rear

If you're referring to the front axle bushings I just got those replaced.
You can post pics once you hit 5 posts - which you have.

If you measured your stance, and the front is sitting 1.5 inches higher than the rear, then something was not done properly - maybe or a wrong part - possibly the wrong sized spacer was used.

If the correct parts were used and the work was done properly, you would be sitting level, or very close to it, period.

I'd take your XK back to whoever did the work and say "WTF??"

I'm not referring to the front axle bushings - I am referring to exactly what I told you - the front upper differential bushing.

The front upper differential bushing and front axle bushings are 2 different bushings.

I suggest you get it checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Could my front end be sitting an inch or so higher because I'm still using the stock rear shocks? Just brainstorming. Also, does the uca angle look ok? I know these lifts add more of an angle to the uca's but just want to make sure it's not too stressed if the front end is sitting too high. I just remeasured and the front seems to be 22" and the rear about 21.5" (both from the center of the wheel to the Edge of the fender/wheel well). It only seems to be a half inch off, maybe an inch at most
 

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Could my front end be sitting an inch or so higher because I'm still using the stock rear shocks? Just brainstorming. Also, does the uca angle look ok? I know these lifts add more of an angle to the uca's but just want to make sure it's not too stressed if the front end is sitting too high. I just remeasured and the front seems to be 22" and the rear about 21.5" (both from the center of the wheel to the Edge of the fender/wheel well). It only seems to be a half inch off, maybe an inch at most
It would be a good idea to get some JBA upper control arms that are made for the lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Could my front end be sitting an inch or so higher because I'm still using the stock rear shocks? Just brainstorming. Also, does the uca angle look ok? I know these lifts add more of an angle to the uca's but just want to make sure it's not too stressed if the front end is sitting too high. I just remeasured and the front seems to be 22" and the rear about 21.5" (both from the center of the wheel to the Edge of the fender/wheel well). It only seems to be a half inch off, maybe an inch at most
It would be a good idea to get some JBA upper control arms that are made for the lift.
Is this a necessity? I'd like to maybe do this in the future but I definitely don't have the money to do that now, being a broke college student. From what I've read you can still run the stock uca's even with the new angle they sit at
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
While it appears that I have enough space between my struts and steering knuckle, when going over speed bumps or other bumps in the road, my struts (mostly the front right) will hit the steering knuckle, causing a loud clunk. I have a rro 2.25" lift. Is there a way to gain more space or limit the amount of contact without buying new uca's (because I can't afford that right now).
 

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While it appears that I have enough space between my struts and steering knuckle, when going over speed bumps or other bumps in the road, my struts (mostly the front right) will hit the steering knuckle, causing a loud clunk. I have a rro 2.25" lift. Is there a way to gain more space or limit the amount of contact without buying new uca's (because I can't afford that right now).

What's the measurement from the center of the hub to the fender flare? If your lift is higher than about 23.5 inches you'll have contact - that height is too much for the geometry of the XK/WK front end. Have you had an alignment yet? Anytime you adjust the height of the front suspension you need to have the Jeep aligned.

Give us the hub-to-flare measurement and on whether you've had an alignment and we can give you some guidance.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
What's the measurement from the center of the hub to the fender flare? If your lift is higher than about 23.5 inches you'll have contact - that height is too much for the geometry of the XK/WK front end. Have you had an alignment yet? Anytime you adjust the height of the front suspension you need to have the Jeep aligned.

Give us the hub-to-flare measurement and on whether you've had an alignment and we can give you some guidance.

Bob
Hey Bob,

I measured the front on both sides and they are both sitting at 22.5". I also did get an alignment when I installed the lift. I'm thinking about taking a torque wrench to most of the suspension components and hoping that tightens things up a bit, as I've heard the suspension might settle a bit after altering it.

I contacted rocky road outfitters about the issue with the struts and steering knuckle and they basically said they've heard of a few people having similar issues due to installing factory replacement type struts that are a little wider than stock. It looks like the coils and coil seats are a little bulkier than stock, but I could be wrong. They told me if I don't want to buy new uca's that sit out wider (which I literally can't afford at this point) then I could possibly grind out part of the steering knuckle where it's making contact.
 

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Is this a necessity? I'd like to maybe do this in the future but I definitely don't have the money to do that now, being a broke college student. From what I've read you can still run the stock uca's even with the new angle they sit at
Stock rear shocks are not an issue - as far as how your XK is sitting.

JBA UCA's for lifted XK's are not a necessity - although I have them.

It certainly wouldn't hurt you to get them whenever your budget allows.

I'm looking at the pic you posted and your front does not look 1 1/2 inches higher the rear - it looks about level to me - which is how it should be.
 

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Hey Bob,

I measured the front on both sides and they are both sitting at 22.5". I also did get an alignment when I installed the lift. I'm thinking about taking a torque wrench to most of the suspension components and hoping that tightens things up a bit, as I've heard the suspension might settle a bit after altering it.

I contacted rocky road outfitters about the issue with the struts and steering knuckle and they basically said they've heard of a few people having similar issues due to installing factory replacement type struts that are a little wider than stock. It looks like the coils and coil seats are a little bulkier than stock, but I could be wrong. They told me if I don't want to buy new uca's that sit out wider (which I literally can't afford at this point) then I could possibly grind out part of the steering knuckle where it's making contact.
That height doesn't seem high enough to cause knuckle/spring contact... I mean, a half inch is a half inch but I've heard of people running at around 23" and the issue for them is the angle of the CV's not knuckle/spring contact.

I'm wondering if the RRO spacers somehow offset the top of the shock tower to the outside of the XK...? I've not thought much of RRO's adherence to close tolerances with their products; maybe the top of the tower is pushed out just a bit and that is creating contact where there shouldn't be.

If there's a way to get a measurement of the diameter of the coil springs I'll measure mine and we can compare the two. The spring/shock combo you have now could be a bit larger which could cause the contact.

Yes, upper control arms would help here but I think there's a different issue causing the contact. I have factory-style arms on mine and no contact - I'm right at 22 inches hub-to-fender flare.

Post back if you can with the spring diameter...

Bob
 

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First, you really need to find out exactly where the contact is happening.

I see where there's been a little contact between the spring seat (the metal part) and the knuckle. That might have been when they were putting it together, the knuckle hitting it before the nut was on that upper ball joint.

Looking closely at the full size image of your pic, I don't see signs of repeated "clunking" contact anywhere along the knuckle.

Does it clunk when going over a speed bump with the steering wheel straight? Or only when it's cut to one side?


PS. Longer, more detailed post to follow this afternoon
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I will try to get a measurement of the coil springs and a picture of the wear from the contact. It's at a difficult angle to take a picture which is why I only took a picture of the limited space between the parts before, but I will try to get a picture here in a bit.

I haven't tried to go over speed bumps while turning but it definitely makes the noise when I'm going straight. It's almost as if it happens when the suspension drops suddenly. From what I can tell it doesn't happen when I hit the speed bump, but right after, when the tires drop and the suspension is stretched out. I have also noticed that it has done it once or twice while turning into parking lots that have large curbs, again seems to happen when the suspension is stretched. So if I'm turning to the left over a curb at certain low speeds, the right side will clunk and vise versa. It has made noise on the right side once from turning right into a lot.

For what it's worth I've recently replaced sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, struts, front right lower control arm, and front axle bushings (all of which are the same specs as stock parts).
 
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