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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2008 Limited HEMI with an OME 2.5in Lift, JeepinByAL A-Arms and I do not have spacers. I keep getting a clunk and popping in tight turns at low speed and I just found a part of the lower control arm is rubbing up against the interior of the part that houses the Caliper/Brake assembly. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem, knows what causes it or how to fix it? Thanks!
 

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That is just the steering stop.... it's supposed to hit.

Did you reprogram the computer for larger tires? Did you get an alignment?

You're likely hearing your traction control engage the abs pump and front locker. Press and hold the TCS button for 10 seconds until you get the "TCS off" message on the dash and see if the noise goes away.
 

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And since you don't have spacers, your tire might be rubbing the body inside the fender well depending on what size you have (unless you have aftermarket wheels with less backspace).
 

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That is just the steering stop.... it's supposed to hit.

Did you reprogram the computer for larger tires? Did you get an alignment?

You're likely hearing your traction control engage the abs pump and front locker. Press and hold the TCS button for 10 seconds until you get the "TCS off" message on the dash and see if the noise goes away.
100% thats designed to make contact there.

Matt is on the right track here. :headbang2:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hey Matt, I didn't reprogram for the larger tires and I will do that soon. I had an alignment a month ago. Just need to buy the computer from the lift store. My speedo is off by 5mph. I just got back from the dealer and my ball joints are the problem that's causing the clunking. I was hoping for something less expensive but no such luck. Ordered new lower control arms, sway bar links and sway bar bushings. Gonna be 8.5 hours labor too. This sucks. I'm fortunate I work at a Jeep dealership but this is still gonna set me back a chunk of change!
 

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The lower ball joints are replaceable without changing the whole control arm.

I understand that most people change the whole control arm as there are numerous other bushes that may also be worn.
 

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I think the selling larger components for replacement is more for savings on labor, i.e. it would cost more to pay for the labor to replace the ball joint than it would to just pay for a quicker replacement of a whole arm.

As well, DIY'er that don't have the special tools can still do the job by getting the larger part.

The quick struts are becoming very popular, where you get the whole strut put together.

But, you're right, that is another purpose for just buying the next larger assembly, you'll replace all the wearable parts at once.
 

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8.5 labor hours for lca's and sway bar bushings? ???

..... I'm gonna say this the nicest way possible. As someone who's had more XK front ends apart than most people on the planet and worked as a certified tech, get a 2nd opinion.... don't care if you work there.... that's either a typo or complete BS
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm starting to suspect the same thing. He told me first it was $1000 for labor then said he'd knock it down to $700 and it includes the alignment. Two other people told me it should be closer to $400. Im going to get a quote from an independent across the street today and maybe i'll just buy the parts and walk next door.
 

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8.5 labor hours for lca's and sway bar bushings? ???

..... I'm gonna say this the nicest way possible. As someone who's had more XK front ends apart than most people on the planet and worked as a certified tech, get a 2nd opinion.... don't care if you work there.... that's either a typo or complete BS
Holy crap. Come to my house, we can do it for a 12pack.


I'll bet that is because of all the trouble they have had with the clevis bolt. Even if you have to cut the damn thing out it shouldn't take anywhere near that long. Besides you have a CA rig, shouldn't have any trouble with that bolt.

Links and bushings might take 15 mins...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
About now I wish I would have paid attention when my Dad was fixing cars! I actually got a second opinion from an outside shop I trust and low and behold he came up with 7.5 hours. I talked with my service manager, he pulled up my front suspension on the computer and showed me all the components and he told me the same thing as the other shop that they have to remove the axels and strut assemblies and you cant replace just the ball joint but the whole LCA and I get all that, plus the alignment afterwards. Just didn't think it was gonna be that much but I've had two people outside our shop pretty much confirm my original estimate. There goes my fun money for this month!
 

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Something to keep in mind. There is a thread about a guy that took his Commander to the dealer for new shocks. The dealership damaged one of the Clevis trying to remove the old shock, there are no replacement Clevis in stock anywhere and Chrysler doesn't expect to start supplying them for another 6 months.

Since your job will require removing the clevis bolt, like when changing shocks, the same could happen and you could be in the same bolt.

At the same time, everyone else on the thread was incredulous, that Dealer had to be incompetent to damage the clevis because the bolt was seized from corrosion. We all suspect the Dealer techs didn't know what they were doing, thought the new shock would have a clevis on it, when they don't, you re-use the clevis. When the bolt was stuck they very sloppily cut or torched the seized bolt out damaging the clevis.

If you have someone perform the job, I would mention it to them. The clevis bolts often seize, be careful removing the clevis because if you damage it, we can't get a new one for 6 months.

As well, I'm surprised the ball joint can't be pressed out and a new one pressed in. But, unless you're doing the job yourself (i.e. free labor), you'll probably pay more in labor charges than what the new LCA costs. Cause they would have to take the LCA out anyway and then spend time pressing the ball joint out and the new one in. Plus replacing any other worn out parts.
 

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As well, I'm surprised the ball joint can't be pressed out and a new one pressed in. But, unless you're doing the job yourself (i.e. free labor), you'll probably pay more in labor charges than what the new LCA costs. Cause they would have to take the LCA out anyway and then spend time pressing the ball joint out and the new one in. Plus replacing any other worn out parts.
Good point on the clevis.


You can press a ball joint out while the LCA is still attached. Much easier with a hydraulic press though I'd imagine and this would require pulling the LCA off.
 

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Balljoint can be replaced without removing LCA. Done that too....

Threads like this make me wonder how people who don't turn wrenches can afford vehicles. ....

When I worked as a tech I never quoted a job as what "could" happen (ie stuck bolt)... it's was always "here's what it should cost, but if xyz happens it may cost more".
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I hear ya Matt, but a lot of us never had the luxury of learning to be a mechanic. I spend too much money on my Commander because I'm blessed to have disposable income to do so. Not as much as some of my friend who can buy $100K Mopars to park in their garage and never drive, but thankfully more than some of my friends with 20 year old Wragnlers that can't afford fix a flat tire. I don't know too many guys who don't blow money on cars and I don't like to get taken for a ride mind you. The option of just replacing the ball joints in the LCA was never given to me by multiple mechanics, each recommended just replacing the whole assembly and the sway bars bushings and end links while I was at it so that's what I did. Wont be the last time I blow some money I'm sure, but I'm happy with the ride now. Drives like new.
 
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