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Are there any special tools needed to take front rotors off to have them resurfaced? I know what a pain in the butt the Ford Explorer was with automatic hubs.
 

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I had the same issue just after I bought my XK, warped rotors, but I ended up taking to the dealer and having them deal with it. $280 for all 4 to be machined and refitted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Rob. My dad and I are gonna take them off and have the cut, but I couldn't remember when the last time I rotated the tires if the rotor was part of the whole hub assembly or not. The reason I asked if it was any special tools because we're gonna do the job at my house and my dad has more tools at his. So I thought if there was any special tools needed I could tell him to bring them if he had 'em or I'd go buy them. Anyway thanks again!
 

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Looks like O'Reilly carries Wagner rotors for $90 each and the ceramic pads are around $60 for the fronts. I think that is the route I am going to go as my brakes on my 06 with 32k miles are starting to shake coming into stops.
 

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Mitch when get Wagner brakes, gives us some feedback. I am at 45,000 and starting to feel shaking as well. I would like Mopar brakes, but a little to pricey.
 

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Just picked up rear premium rotors for the XK last week for under $70 a rotor from napa. Got some ceramic pads too!
 

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Do the rear rotors just pull off, I tried and there seems to be some kind of keeper .... there is a rubber gasket around the hub shaft as well, maybe just not pulling hard enough?
 

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Do the rear rotors just pull off, I tried and there seems to be some kind of keeper .... there is a rubber gasket around the hub shaft as well, maybe just not pulling hard enough?
Depending on what part of the country your operating in (you didn't say) you may find the rotor has rust welded itself to the axle center stub.
A bit of WD-40 and a few well placed hammer strikes against the wheel mounting area (careful, don't hit the studs) generally will shock/spring it free.
If however, you can currently move it on and off about 1/8 to 1/4" then there likely is a rust ridge in the mini-drum area of the rotor.
This is where the parking brake shoes live and you may have to de-adjust the park cable to retract the shoes for clearance.

Good luck,
Rob
 

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Also make sure you dont have the parking brake on when you are trying to take off the rear rotors.
 

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Why ?
.....
Are you serious????:ugh2:

The shoes for the parking brake will be making contact with the inside of the rear rotor and you wont be able to pull it off.
 

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Are you serious????:ugh2:

The shoes for the parking brake will be making contact with the inside of the rear rotor and you wont be able to pull it off.
Oh, OK. Thanks.
 

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Big rubber mallet and some anger issues should remove those rotors. I just replaced mine. Remove the rubber o- ring and caliper and then just smack the crap out of it until the rotor breaks free (hit the surface where the pad contacts the rotor to avoid messing up the wheel bolts). The fronts on mine were much harder to remove, I had to use a screwdriver to break the rust barrier and add some penetratingoil followed by heat and lots of hammering, but that was only on one- the other side came off much easier.

Do not be afraid to hit the rotor hard- just make sure you don't knock the Jeep off the jack.
 

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The shoes for the parking brake will be making contact with the inside of the rear rotor and you wont be able to pull it off.
This is the inside of the rear rotor. It has a drum style parking park and you can see the wear from the shoes. If the parking brake is engaged or to tight then the rotor will not come off. The parking brake is on both sides. Before you go adjusting the tension on the parking brake remember to smack the crap out of the rotor first to see if it comes off.

Any questions just post- I replaced all four rotors last weekend.

[/IMG]
 

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Those are the rotors I have. I've driven about 50 miles on them and they are an improvement. I think I need to bleed my brakes as the pedal seems a little soft. I like them better than stock. I had a problem with pedal pulsation after 45k and decided to replace the rotors and pads. The new pads and rotors solved the problem even though I still had alot of meat left on the stock pads and rotors. The offramp on the thruway that I take everyday drops downhill into a curve and when I am exiting at 75+ mph the fade on the stock setup was a little nerveracking but now that problem is solved. They grab hard when I am coming to a stop and would recommend them. I bought them at autoanything which always has deals and I think they may still be on the cashback program on bing.com.
 

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Yeah, mine are getting warped too at 50,000 miles. I will just leave them alone until my pads are worn. Do you know if the rear pads have the squeal clip? I was surprised the fronts don't.
 
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