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Discussion Starter #1
Took the Commander in for the annual inspection and the front shocks need replaced. I do not like the front end rake and I am wondering if anyone has just added the Bilstein 5100's on the lowest setting with stock springs? I might also put in 4600's in the rear just to get all shocks replaced.
 

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Ive had mine set at both 1.5" (middle) and 2" (highest)

The lowest setting should take away most of the rake. Not much reason to go with 4600s in the rear. Just get the 5100s to match the fronts. In the rear They do not effect ride height at all. They simply allow for a bit more droop.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are there any other parts i will need to buy for the fronts besides the Bilstein 24-225793? I know they make isolators boots/mounts but I am assuming that can all be reused from my current setup. I watched youtube vids of people installing front coil-overs in the commander and it looks like a lot of rusty/frozen suspension components need removed to remove the coil-over. Has anyone tackled this job themselves?
 

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I did the job myself. Hit the lower clevis bolt with PB blaster every day for about a week before you even attempt taking it out. You'll also have to remove the upper clevis bolt, sway bar end link, upper ball joint, and brake caliper, so you might as well hit those bolts as well.

When you're actually tackling the job, an impact wrench comes in handy. The lower clevis bolt is absolutely awful to break loose. You'll probably also want to hit the bolt with a wire brush before attempting to remove it so there's no rust in the threads.

As far as what you'll need, you can reuse all the components off your old strut. You'll need some spring compressors to get the old strut apart, though, and to put the new strut together. Supposedly some of the bolts and nuts up front are one time use, but I reused all of mine with no problems.

As far as tools go, you'll need an 18mm socket, an 18mm wrench, a 10mm wrench, a 10mm socket, a 21mm socket, and a 24mm socket. I also used a 5/16 wrench for assembling the new strut, but that'll be entirely dependent on the strut manufacturer's directions. You'll need to unbolt the sway bar end link from the lower control arm, unbolt the brake caliper and secure it to something so there's no tension on the brake line, unbolt the remove the lower clevis bolt, separate the upper ball joint from the spindle, and remove the 4 bolts holding the strut to the top of the engine bay. Once you get all these out, you can start to wrestle the strut out. It's tough, but doable.

Once you have the strut out, you can compress the spring, remove all the hardware from the old strut and transfer it to the new strut, and put everything back together. Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes up to 130 ft-lbs so you can properly torque down all the bolts.
 
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