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I recently got my 2006 v6 commander, non nav, non boston audio. I put in a crappy JVC deck, Kicker dx series 3 way 6x9s in front and polk dxi 650s in the rear door.
What i did differently was purchased 3 way 6x9 speakers, but separated them into a woofer in the door, with mid and tweeter in the dash, just as jeep does.
Buying 6x9s for the door and 4'' speakers for the dash allows the tweeters in the door to go unused because of the internal crossover.
1. separate tweeters from woofer. The kicker is just screwed together, im sure they are all like this, just twist.
seperated tweeter next to mopar counterpart.
You will likely notice the tweeters are on a platform that makes them too tall.


dremel whatever you need to in order for them to fit. Here are my kickers

dremel Jeep dash in order to fit tweeters under grill. Here is the pattern i used:

allows:


secure tweeter with double sided tape, silicone, hopes and prayers, etc. vibrations isn't an issue here, so don't worry too much.

All buttoned up:

subtle Kicker chrome logo is visible only for those looking for it.

Woofer:
I decided to plug the hole left by the missing tweeter on it's plastic platform. This will allow it to move more air, and preserve it's efficency.

i used electrical tape with a cardboard center, because i used up my woven kevlar on my Bentley, and because we're not building a church here.
Fin.


I will do a separate thread on removing door panels and link ti it.
 

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Another good write-up. Thanks.
 

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"Buying 6x9s for the door and 4'' speakers for the dash allows the tweeters in the door to go unused because of the internal crossover."

Sorry for resurecting this thread after 9 months, I came across it doing some research to install my own speakers in my 2010 Commander.

Just a technical point, that does NOT take away from a great job and neat idea for those that want to do this, I'm pretty sure the Commander does NOT have an internal crossover. Especially the Non-Boston Acoustics, maybe the Boston Acoustics system has it, but I doubt it.

The speakers are simply wired in parrallel, I think they may be 8ohm or 6 ohm, to give a total impedance of 4-3 ohm.

The 2.75" speaker in the dash does have a capacitor wired in series with it, a.k.a. Bass Blocker, to make a high pass filter for the smaller speaker only. Technically NOT a crossover, altough you can argue its doing some crossover function, but it is inside the speaker itself and NOT internal to the wiring.

So, actually if you kept your tweeters on the 6X9 speaker they would have worked like normal in the door.

BUT, for a lot of reasons, you did a much better setup, provided you got the wiring right, so regardless if you did it thinking there is an internal crossover or NOT, its still a better setup than just replacing the door speakers, IMO.

Sure, a true Component Speaker would be better, but cost 3 times as much and be a bigger hassle to install, and what you've done is just make a component speaker system anyway.

If you kept the stock 2.75" speaker, and just put in the aftermarket 6X9 door speaker intact;

The Tweeters would have worked, BUT directed at your calves and higher frequencies are directional and would have resulted poor sound in the higher freqs, putting the tweeters in the dash makes for better sound in the highs.

The aftermarket speaker is likely 4 ohm, wired in parrallel with another speaker bringing the total impendance down below 4 ohms, both being driven by a Head Unit amplifier designed for a 4 ohm load (single speaker). That would be taxing on the amps and/or speakers and could have created problems. Provided you wired it right, the amp is going to see that as a single 4ohm speaker and be better all around.

And those that have 4ohm aftermarket speakers in the door, while keeping the stock dash 2.75" speaker, that are going to say you never had a problem. That may be very true, the high pass filter (bass blocker) in the factory dash speaker, blocks out all the lows frequencies from the smaller speaker. So at the lower frequencies, the amp is just driving the expected 4ohm load at the bigger door speaker, the lower frequencies are the one that make the speaker draw the most current/energy, so at the most taxing frequencies for the amp and speakers, it is really only driving one speaker of normal impedance. At the higher frequencies, that are less taxing, it is driving an out of balance load, but probably can handle it without blowing out. That doesn't mean it makes the best sounding setup, just one that doesn't blow out the amp/speakers. I wouldn't be surprised if you found it sounded better if you unplugged the dash speakers and just used the aftermarket door speakers by themselves.

If you're NOT going to get true component speakers, find some special aftermarket speakers of higher impedance and calculate the total impedance or build your own custom setup with custom crossover, honestly I think Centcomm87 has the best idea of how to do it better on the cheap.
 
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