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Well TYMAC and I spent about 4 hours working on these last night. Since I bought the prototypes there were some issues we had to overcome. Overall I am satisfied with the end product installed but I would not suggest these for the faint of heart! At times we had to re-drill holes due to mounting hole location (due to the way they lined up) more then once. Doing this more then once gave me that "what the hell am I doing" feeling. I also cross threaded more then one cap screw due to the awkward angle they are installed into the rocker panel. I should have more time tomorrow to get the install pics posted but here are some quick shots I took in the driveway this morning.




 

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Congrats and good luck. I am sure 4x4 will appreciate the input.

Are the rails painted? Powder coated? Bed linered? (can I say that?)

The curved ends are nice. Do they go the full length of the rocker?

I was thinking of adding flaps to the front and rear of my rock rails.....could you do that on these? or would it be counter productive?
 

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They look really good. Do the tubes stick out past the tires? If so how far? Do you have wheels spacers?
 

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Good looking sliders, make sure to update your garage too.
 

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i can't tell you how much of a pain they are to build. thats why i have been putting off production. i've been trying to find easier ways to install these and still have the same look. the unibody is a pain to work on sometimes.

they look good.

sorry the nutserts are a pain to work with. i know i screwed more then a few up when i was trying to install those.
 

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i can't tell you how much of a pain they are to build. thats why i have been putting off production. i've been trying to find easier ways to install these and still have the same look. the unibody is a pain to work on sometimes.
Upon seeing them and dry fitting those buggers I said what a pita these had to be to fab up.

Couple of suggestions would be to let the installers drill the top holes with instructions on proper hole spacing for optimal strength. Instructions to pre mark where the existing rocker cover holes are located. Some of the holes already in the unit hit the open squares where the rocker retainers are located from the factory.

Another issue was drilling into the "B" pillar. The depth is limited because of the reinforcement beam.

We started the passenger, which in hindsight was a blessing, because it was by far the hardest of the 2. The driver side was a snap. Hole locations were good.

Make sure you have a right angle drill!!

I'd own a set of these. They are built to handle the abuse. Just wished I was putting them on my XK.:)
 

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Looks good. Have you tried jacking up the XK by the rails?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks good. Have you tried jacking up the XK by the rails?
No not yet. I have several bolts that are crossed threaded that I want to replace first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Congrats and good luck. I am sure 4x4 will appreciate the input.

Are the rails painted? Powder coated? Bed linered? (can I say that?)

The curved ends are nice. Do they go the full length of the rocker?

I was thinking of adding flaps to the front and rear of my rock rails.....could you do that on these? or would it be counter productive?
I used the Walmart Plasticote bedliner paint.
The curved ends do not the full width in to the pinch weld. I assume they would on a production pair. Yes you could add mudflaps - on the production models. These prototypes are just a hair to long at the back. Also they are not closed at the ends. I already have plans to pull them off at the end of the season and box them in and have them recoated with bedliner that is not as glossy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Upon seeing them and dry fitting those buggers I said what a pita these had to be to fab up.

Another issue was drilling into the "B" pillar. The depth is limited because of the reinforcement beam.
I had a thought last night on my way home that maybe I could take a blunt end of a carriage bolt and use this as a "punch" that would allow me to bend in the offending metal behind these nutserts. Obviously I do not want to drill into the B pillar for structural concerns, but how about "molding" them to my needs? Ross - what did you end up doing?
 

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They look really good. Do the tubes stick out past the tires? If so how far? Do you have wheels spacers?

Thanks!
I do not have spacers and they stick out past the tires. I will try to measure this distance tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
i can't tell you how much of a pain they are to build. thats why i have been putting off production. i've been trying to find easier ways to install these and still have the same look. the unibody is a pain to work on sometimes.

they look good.

sorry the nutserts are a pain to work with. i know i screwed more then a few up when i was trying to install those.
Tymac was correct in saying that you should not pre-drill any holes for the on the upper part of the rails. The pinch weld holes holes were fine although you may want to consider Oval shaped holes that are elongated in the vertical orientation. This will allow for some fine tuning on placement. With the upper holes you definitely want to remove the stock rocker guard and mark the placement of the exiting holes on the XK's rocker before you dry fit the rails. Once you are happy with the placement during the dry fit proceed with 8-10 pilot holes along the length of the rail. The follow up with with 5/16" bit in your pilot holes. Then remove the rails and finish with the proper size bit for the nutserts in XK rocker. Also the nutserts I used had a much larger flange (http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0125617&ucst=t). The are a little deeper (by.08") but they held much better. Overall hindsight is 20/20 and I hope the next person has a smoother install.
 

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I hope this doesn't discourage anyone from buying a pair. With this knowledge that Ross received and what he learns testing other pairs, his production rails should be a "B" difficulty install.
 

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If you find that your self-installed liner doesn't stick (like mine - because apparently its not my forte), look into a local "permatech" representative and see how much they charge.

Yours look great and can't wait to see them in action.
 

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i found out that all the holes along the pinch weld are not in the exact same location.

so, i will relocate the holes, and you will just have to drill out all the holes in the pinch weld. i'll cap the ends as well.
 
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