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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright forum members, I'm calling on you for your insight, opinions & knowledge.

I have the 2 inch RC lift and JBA UCA's for lifted XK's. I also have the WAM front bumper which gives me a little more clearance in the forward most part of the front wheel well with he factory front bumper cover being removed - but the factory wheel tub still remains in tact.

I'm buying 1 1/2 inch SpiderTrax wheel spacers - initially with the thought of upgrading to Goodyear Duratrac LT265/70/17's which would be a little wider than the P265/70R17's TOYO Open Country All Terrain II's that I'm running now due to the thicker sidewalls and more aggressive tread pattern.

I'm now contemplating trying to upgrade to Goodyear Duratrac LT285/70/17's which are 33 inch tires - my TOYO's are about 31.6 inches in diameter and I have the most minute bit of rubbing on the inner wheel well when I cut the wheel all the way - barely noticeable to be honest.

My current rims are 17 x 8 with 4.5 inches of back spacing and 0mm of offset, I think the LT285/70/17's will fit on these rims just fine.

I do not have the pinch weld mod done.

My question is will the 1 1/2 inch Spidertrax wheel spacers give me enough clearance for the 285's? I think they will - but I know it's going to be pretty close - one way or the other.

I also found 1.25 inch billet aluminum spacers by Protuninglab:

https://www.protuninglab.com/jeco06ws1212.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=463056476613&gclid=CjwKCAjw2rjcBRBuEiwAheKeL0dwnyt6zYw2fMhezbGV4Y5Rkz6EAlHRbFkeVDyc9j1X5MUqHRmpZRoCeZYQAvD_BwE

Thoughts?
 

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For that size tire, you're going to need the pinch weld mod at the very least. You'll probably need to trim your front wheel liner if you want everything to work out properly. Rear tires shouldn't be a problem.

The closest size tire I ran with my RC lift was a 265/70R18. Slightly skinnier tire, but about the same height. I ran them with 5.2" of backspacing, so my inner tire was probably about equivalent to where yours would be at 4.5" of backspacing.

Up front, with the pinch weld mod and properly shaped liner, I had no rubbing on the drivers side pinch weld and minor rubbing on the passenger side liner where it had to mold around the rear AC. The main rubbing I experienced was on the front edge on both sides; I had some serious rubbing on the wheel liner just below the fog light access flaps. I ended up trimming the liners just below the access flaps and eliminated all rubbing issues. With the cut of your front bumper, I doubt you'd encounter the same issue.

I don't think the wheel spacers are necessary. You shouldn't make contact with the rear AC lines, and spacing the wheels out even more won't give you any more clearance on anything else. Spacing your wheels out that much will also put a lot of extra stress on your front end components. I think that your best option is to simply hammer away at the pinch weld until everything clears; there's plenty of dead space behind that metal, so you've got plenty of room to push it all back.
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
For that size tire, you're going to need the pinch weld mod at the very least. You'll probably need to trim your front wheel liner if you want everything to work out properly. Rear tires shouldn't be a problem.

The closest size tire I ran with my RC lift was a 265/70R18. Slightly skinnier tire, but about the same height. I ran them with 5.2" of backspacing, so my inner tire was probably about equivalent to where yours would be at 4.5" of backspacing.

Up front, with the pinch weld mod and properly shaped liner, I had no rubbing on the drivers side pinch weld and minor rubbing on the passenger side liner where it had to mold around the rear AC. The main rubbing I experienced was on the front edge on both sides; I had some serious rubbing on the wheel liner just below the fog light access flaps. I ended up trimming the liners just below the access flaps and eliminated all rubbing issues. With the cut of your front bumper, I doubt you'd encounter the same issue.

I don't think the wheel spacers are necessary. You shouldn't make contact with the rear AC lines, and spacing the wheels out even more won't give you any more clearance on anything else. Spacing your wheels out that much will also put a lot of extra stress on your front end components. I think that your best option is to simply hammer away at the pinch weld until everything clears; there's plenty of dead space behind that metal, so you've got plenty of room to push it all back.
Thanks cbw, I just got off the phone with my guy at the 4x4 shop who did my Rough Country lift, rear springs & tires a couple of years back, he actually agrees with you, that I'd probably be better off without the spacers, he said we may need to so some cutting for proper clearance, but, he wouldn't know for sure until he looked at it. He seemed pretty confident that it could be done, so, I'll probably swing over there when I get home in November and have him take a look at it and see what he thinks.

EDIT: I'm texting back & forth with the Wrangler Tech at the Jeep dealership I usually go to (Who I trust & have been going to for years) and he's telling me more lift is the solution......

If that's the case, I think the next step for me would have to be the 4 inch Superlift..........uuuuuuggggghhhhhh.........

Decisions, decisions.....
 

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More lift is the ideal solution. With a Superlift, you'll have no problem clearing that tire; when I ran my modified OME I sat an inch lower than the Superlift and had plenty of clearance on my tires. 285s are actually recommended for the Superlift.

However, I don't think you'll have any problem clearing them on your RC kit with some cutting and hammering. Plus that'll set you up well to clear 35s if you ever do move to the Superlift.

Personally, I think 33s look really good on 2" of lift. They fill the wheel well properly; here's a picture of how mine sat with just the RC lift.



If you go up to the Superlift, you'll end up looking more like this.

 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
More lift is the ideal solution. With a Superlift, you'll have no problem clearing that tire; when I ran my modified OME I sat an inch lower than the Superlift and had plenty of clearance on my tires. 285s are actually recommended for the Superlift.

However, I don't think you'll have any problem clearing them on your RC kit with some cutting and hammering. Plus that'll set you up well to clear 35s if you ever do move to the Superlift.

Personally, I think 33s look really good on 2" of lift. They fill the wheel well properly; here's a picture of how mine sat with just the RC lift.
I'm not going to get the superlift; I don't mind having some cutting & hammering done to make them fit;

My main concern now is if these 285/70s will fit on my current rims; Aside from being over an inch more in diameter, they are also .79 inches wider and that concerns me.


 

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I'm not going to get the superlift; I don't mind having some cutting & hammering done to make them fit;

My main concern now is if these 285/70s will fit on my current rims; Aside from being over an inch more in diameter, they are also .79 inches wider and that concerns me.
285s shouldn't be a problem on your wheels. 8" is usually the recommended width for 285s; the actual recommended width will vary from tire to tire, but the manufacturer will give a range of wheel widths that they recommend. The Duratracs are recommended for a 7.5"-9" rim, and your 8" rims fall comfortably inside that range.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
285s shouldn't be a problem on your wheels. 8" is usually the recommended width for 285s; the actual recommended width will vary from tire to tire, but the manufacturer will give a range of wheel widths that they recommend. The Duratracs are recommended for a 7.5"-9" rim, and your 8" rims fall comfortably inside that range.
@consumedbywater;

You are really a blessing to have around, thank you for giving me that critical piece of the puzzle.

I think it's safe to say that 285/70's are in my future.

Just have to visit my 4x4 shop and find out how much cutting they have to do.
 

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Ooh, did somebody say their jeep was going under the knife!?.....(rubbing hands and smiling mischeiviously.......) lmao

Can't wait to see the new creation.... Love these floating bricks we drive..:)

Sent from my SM-J327T1 using Tapatalk
 

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@consumedbywater;

You are really a blessing to have around, thank you for giving me that critical piece of the puzzle.

I think it's safe to say that 285/70's are in my future.

Just have to visit my 4x4 shop and find out how much cutting they have to do.
>:)>:)>:)>:)

Doooo eeeeeet.

Its mostly just plastic fender guards that need a bit of massaging. The pinch weld is a really simple fix.
 

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I'm not going to get the superlift; I don't mind having some cutting & hammering done to make them fit;

My main concern now is if these 285/70s will fit on my current rims; Aside from being over an inch more in diameter, they are also .79 inches wider and that concerns me.
285s shouldn't be a problem on your wheels. 8" is usually the recommended width for 285s; the actual recommended width will vary from tire to tire, but the manufacturer will give a range of wheel widths that they recommend. The Duratracs are recommended for a 7.5"-9" rim, and your 8" rims fall comfortably inside that range.
I was going to say the same thing. Researching the duratracs I saw they fit on the stock 7.5 rim which is great news!

Surely though your going to need to modify your RC lift to get the extra height for the 33s? I thought that everyone’s chat was that there was no way you’d get 33s on just a 2” lift? Even with the pinch weld mod?

BigBlue, what’s your hub to fender measurements?

That’s why I’m looking at the 3/8 spacer and rear isolators or spacer ontop of my future OME lift
 

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Discussion Starter #11
>:)>:)>:)>:)

Doooo eeeeeet.

Its mostly just plastic fender guards that need a bit of massaging. The pinch weld is a really simple fix.
Oh yes it's true.

Anybody have a good video of the pinch weld mod being done?

I searched around on Youtube and couldn't come up with one.

I just want to get a visual & see exactly what it entails.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ooh, did somebody say their jeep was going under the knife!?.....(rubbing hands and smiling mischeiviously.......) lmao

Can't wait to see the new creation.... Love these floating bricks we drive..:)

Sent from my SM-J327T1 using Tapatalk
This really isn't anything new for Big Blue, she went under the knife for the first time when I had my front bumper installed - which involved a fair amount of cutting.

She'll be a repeat offender now.....LOL.
 

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Oh yes it's true.

Anybody have a good video of the pinch weld mod being done?

I searched around on Youtube and couldn't come up with one.

I just want to get a visual & see exactly what it entails.
I've only seen finished products on youtube, nothing in the process. However, I've seen a couple done on the WK and many other jeep models, so that could be a starting point. If you end up doing it, you should just video the process so there's a good example on the tube! haha
 

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This about the best your going to find on the "tube". It's a WK like BadJuJu said, but same platform.


I'll be doing mine this week in prep of getting my new shoes as well. I'll video it the process for us "Mander" drivers.

Sent from my SM-J327T1 using Tapatalk
 

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The process is pretty simple. Once you remove the fender liner, the pinch weld runs vertically and sticks out about an inch from the firewall. The basic pinch weld mod just involves folding this weld over; you can use an angle grinder or dremel to make relief cuts every few inches to make it easier to bend everything over. Then you just take a mallet and start hammering away.

To clear 285s, you'll probably need to do more than that. Behind the pinch weld there are a few inches of empty space, so if you want to, you can just keep hammering everything back to make even more room. Or, if you want to make things cleaner, you can cut out the area entirely and weld in some new metal further back. Welding new metal in also ensures that you get as much room as possible.

Speaking from experience, remove the TPMS receiver before you start working. I didn't, and with one misplaced swing of the hammer I shattered mine. Removing it makes things much easier, and you can always relocate it later once you've pushed everything back.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
The process is pretty simple. Once you remove the fender liner, the pinch weld runs vertically and sticks out about an inch from the firewall. The basic pinch weld mod just involves folding this weld over; you can use an angle grinder or dremel to make relief cuts every few inches to make it easier to bend everything over. Then you just take a mallet and start hammering away.

To clear 285s, you'll probably need to do more than that. Behind the pinch weld there are a few inches of empty space, so if you want to, you can just keep hammering everything back to make even more room. Or, if you want to make things cleaner, you can cut out the area entirely and weld in some new metal further back. Welding new metal in also ensures that you get as much room as possible.

Speaking from experience, remove the TPMS receiver before you start working. I didn't, and with one misplaced swing of the hammer I shattered mine. Removing it makes things much easier, and you can always relocate it later once you've pushed everything back.
Sounds good....thank you for the detailed explanation cbw.
 

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So this guy put 35’s on there...
It's less work to get 35s on a WK; when you cut away the pinch weld on a 2" lift you end up with enough room for 35s, though not much travel on that setup. The trouble with XKs is the rear AC running through the passenger wheel well. I believe the flares on XKs also cause problems on bigger tires, though you can always trim those.

Personally, I think 33s are perfect for 2" of lift. Still enough room for some good articulation while filling the wheel wells nicely.
 
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