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Hopefully, I got the pic to post? I added it in attached files. (Using an iPad.) I recently purchased this 2007 Jeep Commander 4.7L. Today, I'm putting in new plugs, and tested the coils, so I took this pic. I have this ball valve attached from the previous owner. I get the idea, but wondered if someone with more knowledge can give me more info about it. Thank you
 

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Hopefully, I got the pic to post? I added it in attached files. (Using an iPad.) I recently purchased this 2007 Jeep Commander 4.7L. Today, I'm putting in new plugs, and tested the coils, so I took this pic. I have this ball valve attached from the previous owner. I get the idea, but wondered if someone with more knowledge can give me more info about it. Thank you
Interesting it's where the bleeder screw would be for your radiator coolant. Not sure what advantage it would give.
 

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Okay, so 27 views, and not even a " what the heck is that? ", hehe! I'm trying to find more info online, lol. I'm assuming it was for a quick release of coolant pressure when pushing the engine to its limits while off-roading. Presumably when it overheated? I don't really know as I have no experience with that. I was hoping the previous owner might have even been on this forum, or at least someone with an idea or input good or bad, lol. Still have a P0080 fault code,(Exhaust valve control solenoid), and a B1388-Body fault. On the plus side, I changed the plugs out today, and the CEL is now off for now. ?
 

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Interesting it's where the bleeder screw would be for your radiator coolant. Not sure what advantage it would give.
Thank you for the response! I think it's interesting too, I've never seen that before. I'm curious about it.
 

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That would be kind of handy every 5 years or 100,000 miles when you have to change out the coolant.

I just did that job today. I didn't find it that much trouble to just unscrew the plug and screw it back in when I was done.
 

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Yeah, it has something to do with burping the system, but I've yet to figure out why he'd use it for just that. I thought maybe it had another purpose. It's all new to me, guess that's why I'm so curious about it. This Jeep is a 4.7L, with a 195 degree thermostat, and a 5.7L radiator in it. There must have been some sort of an overheating issue that sparked the enginuity. It's mine now, so I'm hoping to figure it out. Looks like I'm the only one sporting a ball valve on the bleeder, just wish I fully understood why, lol!The previous owner was a Jeep enthusiast, lots of off-reading I think. I guess he knows why he'd put it on there.
 

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Yeah, it has something to do with burping the system, but I've yet to figure out why he'd use it for just that. I thought maybe it had another purpose. It's all new to me, guess that's why I'm so curious about it. This Jeep is a 4.7L, with a 195 degree thermostat, and a 5.7L radiator in it. There must have been some sort of an overheating issue that sparked the enginuity. It's mine now, so I'm hoping to figure it out. Looks like I'm the only one sporting a ball valve on the bleeder, just wish I fully understood why, lol!The previous owner was a Jeep enthusiast, lots of off-reading I think. I guess he knows why he'd put it on there.
I don't see a point unless cooling is as constant battle for the prior owner. I'm battling a cooling issue due a removed clutch fan by a prior owner and nothing added to make up for the needed air difference to help with cooling. A bigger radiator is nice though. It sounds like the prior owner tried to improve the cooling system. Without knowing the work done exactly that would lead me to believe it could be causing the problem your having too. I wonder if the ball valve has a seal issue?
 

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Hopefully, I got the pic to post? I added it in attached files. (Using an iPad.) I recently purchased this 2007 Jeep Commander 4.7L. Today, I'm putting in new plugs, and tested the coils, so I took this pic. I have this ball valve attached from the previous owner. I get the idea, but wondered if someone with more knowledge can give me more info about it. Thank you
I have a 2008 4.7L and in 2008 the 4.7L went through a few major changes which included a re-designed intake and the addition of a 2nd spark plug per cylinder - which account for the 70 HP in the 2008 version of the 4.7L.

Point being is that your engine looks quite a bit different then mine.

I'm just spit-balling here, but, the only thing that makes any kind of sense is that the previous owner added that valve to bleed off pressure and/or air for some reason.

What reason that is - I have no idea, I've never seen anything like that before on a Commander.

Too bad you couldn't find out who the previous owner was, so you could get the information straight from the horses mouth.
 

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Yeah, it has something to do with burping the system, but I've yet to figure out why he'd use it for just that. I thought maybe it had another purpose. It's all new to me, guess that's why I'm so curious about it. This Jeep is a 4.7L, with a 195 degree thermostat, and a 5.7L radiator in it. There must have been some sort of an overheating issue that sparked the enginuity. It's mine now, so I'm hoping to figure it out. Looks like I'm the only one sporting a ball valve on the bleeder, just wish I fully understood why, lol!The previous owner was a Jeep enthusiast, lots of off-reading I think. I guess he knows why he'd put it on there.
Does the 4.7L fan shroud and electric fan bolt right on to the 5.7L radiator?

The stock cooling system is mostly adequate (if barely so) for the engine. The thicker core on the 5.7L radiator might be a decent upgrade, provided the electric fan and shroud work properly with it.

A 195F thermostat (90C) is standard for this engine. That's the right thermostat. If you put a cooler thermostat in it (or if the previous owner did), it's really important to fully adjust the "tune" to match the thermostat. If your "tuner" only says he/she is setting fan activation temps to match, they aren't fully adjusting. There's no power or economy to be gained from a lower thermostat temp on this engine, even if you fully tune for the lower temps.

Maybe the previous owner was a railroad buff? Maybe there was a whistle attached to that valve and a pull cord run into the drivers area. :rofl::rofl:
I don't see a point unless cooling is as constant battle for the prior owner. I'm battling a cooling issue due a removed clutch fan by a prior owner and nothing added to make up for the needed air difference to help with cooling. A bigger radiator is nice though. It sounds like the prior owner tried to improve the cooling system. Without knowing the work done exactly that would lead me to believe it could be causing the problem your having too. I wonder if the ball valve has a seal issue?
Are you sure yours left the factory with a mechanical fan and clutch? Most did not have that option. That was "heavy duty engine cooling" and was part of the "Trailer Tow Group" optional equipment.

To check, go to https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin= and after it complains that no VIN was provided, click in the location bar on your browser and put your VIN after the "vin=" at the end of that URL. It will give you a PDF file of the "build sheet" for your Jeep.

If you don't see "Heavy Duty Engine Cooling" on the list for your Jeep, yours didn't get a mechanical fan and fan clutch.

My experience from the past week or so (more research in progress) is that the stock electric fan will adequately cool the 4.7L without the mechanical fan in most conditions. I am going to have my fans reprogrammed to activate at 207F-210F degrees. The stock settings seem to wait until 216F-217F, which IMO is cutting the margin a little thin. At 18PSI (new radiator cap), the coolant shouldn't boil until over 225F, probably over 230F if it's mixed between 50:50 and 65:35 for coolant:water.

With a weak pressure cap, it's certainly possible for the thing to boil off coolant at 215F to 217F before the electric fan cuts on.

On ours, even sitting still, with the new cap installed, but with old coolant, an old water pump, no mechanical fan, sitting still either engine idling, or engine running unloaded at 2000 to 2500 RPM's, the electric fan cut on by 217F, and within less than 60 seconds, the fan would cut off when the engine coolant temp dipped below about 194F.

On another forum, I had a report from a Dodge Ram truck owner who removed the mechanical fan and clutch on his 4.7L V8 Dodge Ram truck and even towed a trailer for long distances with it without the mechanical fan and clutch. He carried the fan and clutch around with him, especially when towing, but never needed to put it back on.

Also, if the ball valve has any issues sealing, you'd see coolant seeping out the top when you stop. I doubt that would be an issue, but it would be obvious if it was leaking around the ball, though perhaps less obvious if it's leaking from the pipe fittings below the ball valve, though.
 

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The fact is releasing pressure on an already overheated or hot engine will result in immediate vaporization or boiling of the coolant and won't help anything cool down. The cooling system requires pressure to increase the boiling point of the liquid coolant and releasing it would be a big mistake. This must be for some type of burping or air bleed. I would be concerned that the ball valve and its seals would hold up to the heat it will be subjected to being installed on an engine.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It looks as though it bolts right up to it. I ran my vin, it says standard duty engine cooling. Thank you for that info! Here's a pic if that helps decide if it's the standard, or if it's been changed. I only know which radiator I have, as I have the receipt from the previous owner. It says 2007 Jeep Commander Limited 5.7 L V-8 Radiator.

The ball valve has the original bleeder plug in the top of it. I'm guessing he used some sort of vacuum to flush and burp the system? It doesn't leak, and I don't have any overheating issues as of now. I tried to get in contact with him via social media, but he's yet to read it.

I only have 8 plugs/coils. Not sure why my engine looks different than Big Blue's? The re-maned engine receipt says 2007 Jeep Commander 4.7. CHRY 4.7/287 03.
 

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Does the 4.7L fan shroud and electric fan bolt right on to the 5.7L radiator?

The stock cooling system is mostly adequate (if barely so) for the engine. The thicker core on the 5.7L radiator might be a decent upgrade, provided the electric fan and shroud work properly with it.

A 195F thermostat (90C) is standard for this engine. That's the right thermostat. If you put a cooler thermostat in it (or if the previous owner did), it's really important to fully adjust the "tune" to match the thermostat. If your "tuner" only says he/she is setting fan activation temps to match, they aren't fully adjusting. There's no power or economy to be gained from a lower thermostat temp on this engine, even if you fully tune for the lower temps.

Maybe the previous owner was a railroad buff? Maybe there was a whistle attached to that valve and a pull cord run into the drivers area. :rofl::rofl:

Are you sure yours left the factory with a mechanical fan and clutch? Most did not have that option. That was "heavy duty engine cooling" and was part of the "Trailer Tow Group" optional equipment.

To check, go to https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin= and after it complains that no VIN was provided, click in the location bar on your browser and put your VIN after the "vin=" at the end of that URL. It will give you a PDF file of the "build sheet" for your Jeep.

If you don't see "Heavy Duty Engine Cooling" on the list for your Jeep, yours didn't get a mechanical fan and fan clutch.

My experience from the past week or so (more research in progress) is that the stock electric fan will adequately cool the 4.7L without the mechanical fan in most conditions. I am going to have my fans reprogrammed to activate at 207F-210F degrees. The stock settings seem to wait until 216F-217F, which IMO is cutting the margin a little thin. At 18PSI (new radiator cap), the coolant shouldn't boil until over 225F, probably over 230F if it's mixed between 50:50 and 65:35 for coolant:water.

With a weak pressure cap, it's certainly possible for the thing to boil off coolant at 215F to 217F before the electric fan cuts on.

On ours, even sitting still, with the new cap installed, but with old coolant, an old water pump, no mechanical fan, sitting still either engine idling, or engine running unloaded at 2000 to 2500 RPM's, the electric fan cut on by 217F, and within less than 60 seconds, the fan would cut off when the engine coolant temp dipped below about 194F.

On another forum, I had a report from a Dodge Ram truck owner who removed the mechanical fan and clutch on his 4.7L V8 Dodge Ram truck and even towed a trailer for long distances with it without the mechanical fan and clutch. He carried the fan and clutch around with him, especially when towing, but never needed to put it back on.

Also, if the ball valve has any issues sealing, you'd see coolant seeping out the top when you stop. I doubt that would be an issue, but it would be obvious if it was leaking around the ball, though perhaps less obvious if it's leaking from the pipe fittings below the ball valve, though.
Cool link, got some more useful info. Came up with standard duty engine cooling group. Not sure what all that entails lol. Dealer service guys already confirmed running my vin that it should have a clutch fan which I've already ordered. I actually think it will be rare that these 4.7 pre 2008 upgraded models will be without the clutch fan, I think the heavy duty cooling group will be mainly for the HEMI's. Did learn a few other things so that was nice, nothing crazy though.:grin2:
 

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Your engine is prior to the upgraded changes that occurred as part of the 2008 change. They redid the heads and intake at a min to work with the huge boost in HP. Here is some good info on that. http://media.fcanorthamerica.com/newsrelease.do?id=7324&mid=46 (may have to copy and paste that link). So there are sure to be a few differences within. How many I cannot say. So for you and I, the 2008 and up is not a motor to compare with, need to treat it as different lol. If your cooling system is not an issue then I wouldn't be worries about it. Now to do some research on the "standard duty cooling group" lol.
 

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Cool link, got some more useful info. Came up with standard duty engine cooling group. Not sure what all that entails lol.
It entails not having a mechanical fan or fan clutch when it left the factory. I haven't been able verify this, but I would not be surprised if the fan activation temperatures are set differently for the electric fan with "Standard duty engine cooling" (sales code NMB).
Dealer service guys already confirmed running my vin that it should have a clutch fan
Define "should have" please. It might be a good idea, but it left the factory without those parts. The mechanical fan and fan clutch were only installed at the factory for XK's with "Heavy duty engine cooling" (Sales code NMC), which was included as part of "Trailer Tow Group IV" (Sales code AHX).

MINOR UPDATE: If the service guys looked at the trailer hitch setup and the 6,000 pound trailer you were hauling behind it and decided "You really should have a mechanical fan and fan clutch," that's probably a good call. They didn't run your VIN to come to that conclusion, though. Your VIN will either show "Heavy Duty Engine Cooling" with or without "Trailer Tow Group IV," meaning that it had the fan clutch and mechanical fan when it left the factory, or it will show "Standard Duty Engine Cooling, meaning that it left the factory with only the electric fan.

The Mopar Trailer Towing kit included the fan and clutch, along with the class IV hitch receiver and the wiring harness for the trailer lights connector.

The MOPAR part #'s are 55038108AA for the fan and 55038106AA for the fan clutch.

There's nothing wrong with adding them to any 3.7L V6 or 4.7L V8, but they aren't entirely necessary.
which I've already ordered. I actually think it will be rare that these 4.7 pre 2008 upgraded models will be without the clutch fan, I think the heavy duty cooling group will be mainly for the HEMI's. Did learn a few other things so that was nice, nothing crazy though.:grin2:
The 5.7L Hemi is an entirely different beast. It uses a hydraulically driven fan mounted on the radiator, and powered by the power steering pump through an electronic solenoid control valve. The Hemi's also shed heat much better than the 4.7L V8 and the 3.7L V6.
 

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Just reading old posts, this one caught my eye. It’s a serious homemade one of these. A radiator flush-back point. Really nice work for this purpose, I know that you can get a billet Hemi thermostat housing with a threaded port, serve for temp sender, or something like this. No hokey plastic Prestone “T” in the heater line. And yes, It would definitky become the highest open point, it will be the best bleed point for getting air out quickly and effectively.
 

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Exactly. Ford 3.8's came with a factory fitting in the thermostat housing that raised the port up in order to more effectively bleed air. I wouldn't worry about it holding up. Most brass ball valves are able to handle temperatures up to 450 *F.
 

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I can see how that valve could come in handy. I had a hidden leak in my water pump, the coolant would drop after a couple hundred miles, I couldn't see a leak, but the coolant level in the radiator would drop, but not in the reservoir. adding more coolant was a pain.Having a burp valve with a handle would make it much simpler.
 
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