Jeep Commander Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I am interested if anyone knows where I can get headers for my 5.7, and if there are any companies to get my ecu tuned. I have a couple of friends with 5.7's (300c/ and a Ram) and we would all put in to see if we could get a discount if someone does program them. If members on this come together and find a programmer we could get a good bulk discount hopefully.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,027 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
366 Posts
Steve- Can you shoot me a price of camshaft, crankshaft, and CNC ported cylinder heads. Anything else you have for my 5.7L send me prices and facts to [email protected] I look forward to making my beast scream
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
ShinyBlackHEMI said:
Steve- Can you shoot me a price of camshaft, crankshaft, and CNC ported cylinder heads. Anything else you have for my 5.7L send me prices and facts to [email protected] I look forward to making my beast scream
If you need more information, please feel free to call me at 877-FRI-HEMI!

James
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Im going to be putting on a set of the american racing long tube headers on my Commander , but with the computer tune has anyone tried those plug in computer chip tuners , and or how is the performance versus a custom tune?

-Chato
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
I don't believe that anybody makes headers for a Commander. Are you trying to modify something from a different 5.7 powered vehicle? I used the SRT Grand Cherokee manifolds on mine. They are worth about 35 hp.

I used a Diablo Trinity on mine. The power gain is substantial but they are not cheap.
 

·
Registered
06 _ 5.7L _QD2 _ 135k _ 5100s 2.5" _ 265x70x17 _ stock wheels
Joined
·
271 Posts
Superchips JEEP flashpaq F5 worked great for me. Just getting the nice crisp shifting probably was the best improvement !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Bringing this thread back, as I saw it still near to the top in Performance Mod section, but the problem everyone has here is they are looking for "Commander" headers. Look for Grand Cherokee or WK headers, not SRT, just the regular 5.7 WK. It should be well known around here that 99% of WK parts work on the Commanders since they are the same frame, engine and electrical system.
ARH (American Racing Headers) makes a set of 304 stainless steel long tubes for all the WK 5.7 platforms that trade to the Commanders- '05-08 (square exhaust port) and '09-10 (D shaped exhaust port), both with or without cats. $1500-1700.

I've been running a set of the square ports on my 2006 5.7 for a little over 2 years and about 27,000 miles. The ONLY modding I had to do to make them fit was do some hamming on the top of the transmission support cross-member where the pipes go over it, right before the muffler. The pipes are much bigger than stock so they were vibrating on the cross-member. You will run into clearance issues up closer to the engine were the 4 downpipes are on each side, again they take up much more room than the stock pipes did. Getting to the starter motor becomes a royal PITA, dropping the transmission belly pan is tricky and the pipes get really close to some wires on the driver side and the trans cooler lines on the passenger side. I was getting intermittent "Trans Over Temp" warnings if parked for a short amount of time with the engine off and then restarted. I wrapped the wires and the lines with 2000 deg heat shield wrapping, preventing any potentially melted wires and ending the Trans Over Temp. You might need to reroute the starter motor wires as well, since they were dangerously close to the headers right out of the heads.
There's some pics from below in my profile and a YouTube video HERE of my Commander with these pipes.
Installing these pipes pretty much requires removing the heads or the entire engine....they don't separate until all the way down at the cats. The stock pipes separate right at the manifold "logs" which is easy to get to from the wheel wells. The size and bend in the headers, plus almost impossible access to all the mount bolts makes this install job a damn nightmare. But....since I was rebuilding from a dropped valve seat...most of the work was already done.
I don't have dyno numbers (STILLLLL), but they wouldn't be completely accurate for the pipes alone since I have so many other heavy engine mods (ported heads, cam, etc)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
Not everyone can afford to spend that much money or that much time and effort to install long tubes bud. I know that the SRT 6.1 manifolds bolt right up and are a dyno proven 30+ hp mod. I have them on mine and the performance improvement with other bolt ons was huge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Not everyone can afford to spend that much money or that much time and effort to install long tubes bud. I know that the SRT 6.1 manifolds bolt right up and are a dyno proven 30+ hp mod. I have them on mine and the performance improvement with other bolt ons was huge.
Oh for sure, I agree.
I was just sharing the information for options that are out there. A notable company makes a quality, aftermarket product that bolts on. The comment theme on this thread seemed to be "no one makes anything". And I was sharing that someone actually does.
Some people are willing to spend that kind of money (yes, not many of us), as full long tubes are still a better performance upgrade vs. oem shorties that aren't true headers. (true headers being every header pipe the same length and collecting at the same point). BOTH are waaaay better than the stock logs, though.

When I was trying to decide header routes, I looked into the SRT stock manifolds. But, if I remember right, you had to get custom made mid-pipes to make them work, or if you just swapped a complete SRT exhaust you had to cut some of the transmission housing off to make it fit. Did you experience any of this? ...Genuine curiosity
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
I am a huge fan of long tubes myself but there is no way I could afford that cost. The SRT'S shipped cost me about $350 US.

None of the above. I had an exhaust shop make some reducers about a foot long and then my brother cut the existing reducers off and welded the factory midpipe up to the new ones. We redid everything leading up to the cats as the factory piece is a pipe within a pipe. I also ditched the factory muffler and replaced it with a Flowmaster 50 suv.

An SRT midpipe is a substantially better improvement in flow but I could not get any wreckers to part with just that section. They wanted to sold me the entire system. It is similar to the Commannder piece except it has twi pipes coming out the back of the cats. Flowmaster had a matching muffler.

The part that hits the transmission is just the boss for the fastener. I just cut a smart part of it off instead of messing with the transmission.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
I am a huge fan of long tubes myself but there is no way I could afford that cost. The SRT'S shipped cost me about $350 US.

None of the above. I had an exhaust shop make some reducers about a foot long and then my brother cut the existing reducers off and welded the factory midpipe up to the new ones. We redid everything leading up to the cats as the factory piece is a pipe within a pipe. I also ditched the factory muffler and replaced it with a Flowmaster 50 suv.

An SRT midpipe is a substantially better improvement in flow but I could not get any wreckers to part with just that section. They wanted to sold me the entire system. It is similar to the Commannder piece except it has twi pipes coming out the back of the cats. Flowmaster had a matching muffler.

The part that hits the transmission is just the boss for the fastener. I just cut a smart part of it off instead of messing with the transmission.
Believe me, it took a lot of thinking and deciding if I REALLY wanted to drop that kind of money on headers. I would have much rather gone the route you did with the SRT manifolds, but my hands were kind of tied with my engine all torn down from the valve seat rebuild- I lived in a town where I didn't know anyone. I didn’t have access to a welder or anyone with one and I had no way to trailer the Jeep to an exhaust shop. I knew the transmission trimming was trivial, just wanted to confirm it was true even with “custom” midpipes.

With all the engine mods I’d done on the rebuild there was no way I could live with myself knowing I put the stock logs back on ported heads, just choking them off. With the heads still off, that was the only chance I’d have to consider any sort of header upgrade...kind of a now or never situation.

All in all, my entire engine rebuild with the headers, heads, cam, lifters, oil pump, intake, and tons of new OEM parts, etc only ran me about $5000. I did EVERYTHING my self though, except some machining on the timing cover for the bigger timing set. So, that obviously saved TONS of money on labor. That’s about what a lot of people are probably spending on a Superlift (having a shop do the install) with JBA arms, new tires and rims...🤷🏻 Or almost any type of lift with JBAs, tires, rims and 2 steel bumpers, winch, etc.
Plus, $5k is way cheaper than a new vehicle.......and it was fun and a huge learning experience!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
Yes, it sounds reasonable. I spent 6K just rebuilding the motor for a 2004 Durango after a hydro lock bent a connecting rod. I even already had a few of the parts and found a smoking deal on the Wiseco pistons in it. I also ported the heads myself and assembled the motor. I did go overboard to try and make it bulletproof and it should be an easy 450 hp motor. I used a Comp double roller and had no issues with the timing cover. What chain did you use?

The factory logs are beyond garbage. The collector end was not even 2". They are an absolute killer of power. I just picked up a set of 6.1 heads that I will swap onto the Jeep. I already have 2009 intake and will upgrade the exhaust valves before the install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Yes, it sounds reasonable. I spent 6K just rebuilding the motor for a 2004 Durango after a hydro lock bent a connecting rod. I even already had a few of the parts and found a smoking deal on the Wiseco pistons in it. I also ported the heads myself and assembled the motor. I did go overboard to try and make it bulletproof and it should be an easy 450 hp motor. I used a Comp double roller and had no issues with the timing cover. What chain did you use?

The factory logs are beyond garbage. The collector end was not even 2". They are an absolute killer of power. I just picked up a set of 6.1 heads that I will swap onto the Jeep. I already have 2009 intake and will upgrade the exhaust valves before the install.
Funny how just a repair rebuild turns into a full performance build, haha....
I used a Howard's Cams double roller. As far as I could tell, it was the exact same as the Comp set, just a little cheaper on the price. Both are 9 keyway with 4/8 deg adv/rtd and billet sprockets. Both used oil pump spacers and need to modify the oil pickup tube due to the oil pump moving. And both had notes about "possible" need to modify the timing cover for clearance due to the deeper cam sprocket. The notes specifically said "possible" I guess to imply that not all will need it?
I saw a picture from some truck build magazine and briefly mentioned having to do it and a few sparse posts on some Hemi car forums about people who didn't do it and it blew their engine up (their fault for not checking sprocket clearance during reassembly....)
SOOO...I don't know if there's enough variances in the Gen 3 timing covers or what, but I was hoping I wouldn't have to. I could barely turn the engine over by hand with the heads off after torquing the timing cover down because it pressed so hard on the sprocket.

Here's how the timing over looked where the sprocket was rubbing after I tried the first time:
42190


I tried to use a machining bit on a dremel tool to take down the high spots myself, but it proved to be too much of a task for me to do properly. As I ground some away, more kept needing to be done. I don't think I was able to properly torque the cover to the block the first time; that it was actually torquing fully against the sprocket.
I found a machine shop nearby that did the proper machining for me for about $80. Worth it to me to make sure it was done clean and right. The black stuff was just Sharpie marker I was using to see where the sprocket was rubbing during my dremel attempts. There's more than enough material there between the timing side and the water pump side, so there were never any concerns about going too deep.
42191


And no issues once they did that for me......
Here's some other flavor pics since I went back to find these timing cover shots. I wish I would have taken a picture with a tape measure or something to show the height difference of the sprockets. I took tons of photos of the entire build, you'd think I would have....Swapping the timing set was probably the biggest PITA of the entire rebuild, probably tied with the headers. Since I had to drop the whole oil pan to modify the pickup tube...
42192


42193


42194


And here's these 2 shots, to stay on topic of the thread!
42195


42196
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
I initially thought it was the more common spun rod bearing as it started knocking after a backfire. So silly me didn't check the bores for coolant. It was actually a head gasket failure due to the torque to frak you head bolts letting off. So I let it sit from October until June before it was yanked. Coolant etched the block requiring a bore. Otherwise I would have just put in fresh bearings and the head work.

The Durango has the early timing cover with the alternator and ac compressor up high. Not sure if it is physically deeper. The chain was installed and I used a Meling high volume pump with the Comp oil pump spacers. I checked the depth with a digital gauge and by a preliminary install. I calculate that there was about 1.5 mm of gap and it did not rub.

Those headers are sweet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I don't believe that anybody makes headers for a Commander. Are you trying to modify something from a different 5.7 powered vehicle? I used the SRT Grand Cherokee manifolds on mine. They are worth about 35 hp.

I used a Diablo Trinity on mine. The power gain is substantial but they are not cheap.
I was going to try the headers that fit for the Cherokee but I never got to as my radiator & starter & alternator all went out on me so I had to swap those out but now I’m ready to look back into the engine modifications

I am a huge fan of long tubes myself but there is no way I could afford that cost. The SRT'S shipped cost me about $350 US.

None of the above. I had an exhaust shop make some reducers about a foot long and then my brother cut the existing reducers off and welded the factory midpipe up to the new ones. We redid everything leading up to the cats as the factory piece is a pipe within a pipe. I also ditched the factory muffler and replaced it with a Flowmaster 50 suv.

An SRT midpipe is a substantially better improvement in flow but I could not get any wreckers to part with just that section. They wanted to sold me the entire system. It is similar to the Commannder piece except it has twi pipes coming out the back of the cats. Flowmaster had a matching muffler.

The part that hits the transmission is just the boss for the fastener. I just cut a smart part of it off instead of messing with the transmission.
I think I’ll definitely be looking into the Srt manifolds if you’s know of any for sale post the link !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
I can go back and find the part numbers and post them for you. That is how I found mine.

So the part naumbers are; Left 5037637AD and Right 5037638AD. I ended up looking through an auto wrecker listing to find mine. You can try that as well. They are stainless so they are usually in very nice condition.

This is a Russian site that has both listed at $119 USD each. Not sure how much shipping would be or if they have secure payment options. they look like this.

42325


Market | VK
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top