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Hi, I first joined back in 2013 but have not been active until now. This is my first post and any help would be appreciated.

First let me start off by saying that I belong to a 3 Jeep family. I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee. My wife has a 2008 Commander and my daughter has a 2003 Liberty with only 51k miles on it. Im not a mechanic but Im not afraid to get my hands dirty. My mechanical experience so far includes fluid changes, and replacing items such as belts, radiators, fan relay module, brakes, bumper covers, steering stabilizers, lower control arms, exhaust systems, etc.

I enjoy doing my own work even though my wife my disagree when Im out in my driveway swearing up a storm. But I sit in front of a computer all day so being able repair things myself is a nice break from my job and having the feeling that I repaired something myself and confident i did it correctly is a great feeling.

Now with that all said, I have come to seek expert advice on my latest issue.

I started replacing my front brake pads and rotors on my 2008 Commander. It has 85k on it and no suspension or front end work has ever been done. I don't have the FSM for the Commander but just purchased the pdf version from eBay that supposedly covers 2006-2010 models. I'm not sure how well I trust something that isn't year specific.

I realized after removing my rotor that I need to remove the hub bearing assembly to replace the rotor shield. I did manage to get that off after viewing several posts and YouTube videos. I want to make sure I replace everything correctly, so here are my questions:


  • I would like to confirm what I have for torque specifications. I get mixed results with Google searches and the pdf manual is based off of the 2006 model year.
    • 3 hub bearing assembly to knuckle bolts: 115 Nm / 85 ft lbs
    • 2 caliper bracket bolts: 169 Nm / 125 ft lbs
    • 2 caliper slide pins: 44 Nm / 32 ft lbs
    • 1 wheel speed sensor: 12-14 Nm
    • 1 36mm axle nut: 136 Nm / 100 ft lbs (much controversy over this one)

  • I was planning on reusing the existing hub bearings but I dont know if I should replace them. They were a pain to get off because they were rusted to the knuckle. I used a wire brush to clean them the best I could. I couldnt get the back of the assembly (where it comes in contact with the axle) completely smooth. Will that cause noise or other issues? Also should anything be greased before mounting the hub bearing (whether it be new or existing.) Nothing was mentioned in the manual but I did see some posts about applying a thin layer of grease to the axle shaft splines, seal contact surface and hub bore.
I think that's about it. I've never worked with hub assemblies or wheel bearings before and I dont want to mess this up.


Thanks


Mark
 

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Hi, I first joined back in 2013 but have not been active until now. This is my first post and any help would be appreciated.

First let me start off by saying that I belong to a 3 Jeep family. I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee. My wife has a 2008 Commander and my daughter has a 2003 Liberty with only 51k miles on it. Im not a mechanic but Im not afraid to get my hands dirty. My mechanical experience so far includes fluid changes, and replacing items such as belts, radiators, fan relay module, brakes, bumper covers, steering stabilizers, lower control arms, exhaust systems, etc.

I enjoy doing my own work even though my wife my disagree when Im out in my driveway swearing up a storm. But I sit in front of a computer all day so being able repair things myself is a nice break from my job and having the feeling that I repaired something myself and confident i did it correctly is a great feeling.

Now with that all said, I have come to seek expert advice on my latest issue.

I started replacing my front brake pads and rotors on my 2008 Commander. It has 85k on it and no suspension or front end work has ever been done. I don't have the FSM for the Commander but just purchased the pdf version from eBay that supposedly covers 2006-2010 models. I'm not sure how well I trust something that isn't year specific.

I realized after removing my rotor that I need to remove the hub bearing assembly to replace the rotor shield. I did manage to get that off after viewing several posts and YouTube videos. I want to make sure I replace everything correctly, so here are my questions:


  • I would like to confirm what I have for torque specifications. I get mixed results with Google searches and the pdf manual is based off of the 2006 model year.
    • 3 hub bearing assembly to knuckle bolts: 115 Nm / 85 ft lbs
    • 2 caliper bracket bolts: 169 Nm / 125 ft lbs
    • 2 caliper slide pins: 44 Nm / 32 ft lbs
    • 1 wheel speed sensor: 12-14 Nm
    • 1 36mm axle nut: 136 Nm / 100 ft lbs (much controversy over this one)

  • I was planning on reusing the existing hub bearings but I dont know if I should replace them. They were a pain to get off because they were rusted to the knuckle. I used a wire brush to clean them the best I could. I couldnt get the back of the assembly (where it comes in contact with the axle) completely smooth. Will that cause noise or other issues? Also should anything be greased before mounting the hub bearing (whether it be new or existing.) Nothing was mentioned in the manual but I did see some posts about applying a thin layer of grease to the axle shaft splines, seal contact surface and hub bore.
I think that's about it. I've never worked with hub assemblies or wheel bearings before and I dont want to mess this up.


Thanks


Mark
You took the hubs apart because of a dust shield for the rotors? I've simply thrown them out in the past bc I dont like working around them.

Might as well replace the bearings at this point since you've already got em apart especially considering the rust.
 

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hey Mar,k good on you for doing your own wrenching...

hey Lucky, that link looks like a wk owners manual not a FSM...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You took the hubs apart because of a dust shield for the rotors? I've simply thrown them out in the past bc I dont like working around them.

Might as well replace the bearings at this point since you've already got em apart especially considering the rust.
Yeah, after removing the first hub bearing I realized it wasnt worth the effort to remove it just to install new brake rotor shields. I also came to the conclusion that since it was such a pain to remove them, I might as well replace them. I ordered a new pair. Problem is that its in my driveway and the weather is getting colder. I hate doing this type of work in this weather but I have to finish it now.

My Grand Cherokee needs ball joints badly but those will have to wait until springtime. At first I wasn't even going to attempt doing them myself but it seems to just be a liittle more work than what Im doing to the Commander now. Except that its 17 years old and the rust is going to be worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hey Mar,k good on you for doing your own wrenching...

hey Lucky, that link looks like a wk owners manual not a FSM...
Yeah, that seems to be the owners manual.

I thought the WK and the XK were basically the same but when I was searching for torque specs, they varied significantly. Also could be the source of the data I found. That's why I wanted to confirm what I had because Ive seen so many different specifications.
 

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Ive replaced the wheel bearing because of vibration during turns...
Used a Timken. The hardest part was removing it from the knuckle, it gets corroded in there. Soaked with Blaster and kept tapping with the hammer. I used anti seize paste when installing the new hub just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, it took longer than I wanted it to. One of the caliper slide pins were seized so i ordered new calipers. Then after realizing how how it was to remove the hub bearings, I decided to order new ones. I wasnt going to go to put the old ones back on after all that.

This is the last repair I do this time of the year. I froze my butt off and then we had a snow storm just before I completed it.

I upgraded to Power Stop calipers, rotors and pads. In the spring, I plan on doing the rear and flushing all of the brake fluid.

I believe I bled the brakes correctly. I didnt check if there was a specific procedure for the Commander.

Also I got a good look at some of the steering components. I may need to the sway bar links soon.
 

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Well, it took longer than I wanted it to. One of the caliper slide pins were seized so i ordered new calipers. Then after realizing how how it was to remove the hub bearings, I decided to order new ones. I wasnt going to go to put the old ones back on after all that.

This is the last repair I do this time of the year. I froze my butt off and then we had a snow storm just before I completed it.

I upgraded to Power Stop calipers, rotors and pads. In the spring, I plan on doing the rear and flushing all of the brake fluid.

I believe I bled the brakes correctly. I didnt check if there was a specific procedure for the Commander.

Also I got a good look at some of the steering components. I may need to the sway bar links soon.
That's good work.

So, let me ask you, is that the same kit as this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...productDetails

Power Stop K2220-36 Front & Rear Z36 Truck and Tow Brake Kit.

I have this waiting for me as part of several upgrades when I get back to the states in about a day and a half and was curious what you think of them so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's good work.

So, let me ask you, is that the same kit as this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...productDetails

Power Stop K2220-36 Front & Rear Z36 Truck and Tow Brake Kit.

I have this waiting for me as part of several upgrades when I get back to the states in about a day and a half and was curious what you think of them so far.
It's similar. I happened to go with the "Daily Driver" and not the "Truck & Tow" kit. I think the only difference is that the Daily Driver uses the Z23 Evolution Sport pads.

https://www.powerstop.com/products/#y=2008&mk=JEEP&mo=COMMANDER

Ive only done the front so far and I'll do the rear in the spring. They seem better than the stock brakes but then again my old caliper had a frozen slide pin. I thought my pedal would be a little firmer. That could have to do with my brake bleeding or maybe the brake hoses should be replaced.
 

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It's similar. I happened to go with the "Daily Driver" and not the "Truck & Tow" kit. I think the only difference is that the Daily Driver uses the Z23 Evolution Sport pads.

https://www.powerstop.com/products/#y=2008&mk=JEEP&mo=COMMANDER

Ive only done the front so far and I'll do the rear in the spring. They seem better than the stock brakes but then again my old caliper had a frozen slide pin. I thought my pedal would be a little firmer. That could have to do with my brake bleeding or maybe the brake hoses should be replaced.
Gotcha, thanks for the feedback.
 
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