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I'd like to take a pulse on owners who have added an HID conversion kit to their Commander, I'm considering it for the functionality. I usually tend to stay away from them on prior vehicles because although HIDs are bright, they're not always functional depending on the headlight housing/assembly. Most of the time they just end up looking cool and bright but blind oncoming traffic and doesn't actually help with better road visibility when driving at night. I am curious though if the design of our headlight housings actually might work with HID conversion kits because when I look at my headlight bulbs inside the housing it appears as if there's a reflective dome that covers the bulb which forces the light towards the back of the concaved mirrored surface and disperses forward. Maybe the design does help.

For those that have them:1) which kit did you use? 2) What color temp? 3) Do you like them? 4) Did they improve your visibility down the road or did it just make everything directly in front of you brighter (bad visibility down the road)?

If I do pull the trigger I was considering these in a 5500k temp from research I've done here: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-9006.html#.VWUBQhtFCpq
 

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Don't do it in these lenses, youll have light bleed over the cutoff which blinds oncoming drivers, and ruins your night vision. You need to do a full retrofit which involves opening up the housings cutting and custom fitting projectors designed for HIDs. Or purchase factory HID housings for the XK.

TRS is excellent, though. Good choice there.
 

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If you want to upgrade your lighting The best bang for the buck by far is 9011 HIR bulbs. You can get them @ rockauto for ~$9 per bulb + shipping, search for 9011. Those output ~2350lm, this does require some modification of the bulb base that could be done in minutes with finger nail clippers and a razor knife. I have posted on here about it several times...
 

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Don't do it in these lenses, youll have light bleed over the cutoff which blinds oncoming drivers, and ruins your night vision.
That's what I was afraid of and suspected but thought it might be different with our headlight assemblies since there's like a little reflective dome over the bulb itself on the inside. Oh well. The lighting is good but functioning HIDs would've been better.

I'll check out those HIR bulbs. I did a quick search on the RockAuto website but didn't find though. I'll search here for any links you posted. Thanks!
 

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That's what I was afraid of and suspected but thought it might be different with our headlight assemblies since there's like a little reflective dome over the bulb itself on the inside. Oh well. The lighting is good but functioning HIDs would've been better.

I'll check out those HIR bulbs. I did a quick search on the RockAuto website but didn't find though. I'll search here for any links you posted. Thanks!
Rock auto takes some getting used to.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=574139&jnid=4&jpid=1


Philips is the only manufacturer.

The bulbs are stamped Philips made in germany.
 

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Trying to see what I can find. It might be a little disjointed information but here ya go.

Update at bottom of post
Seeing as there's no actual thread that details/documents A) what to buy and B) how to install this, I figured I put this here.

I came from owning a 98 XJ, where the headlights sucked, but the upgrade was easy enough with a new wiring harness, new H4 eCode lamps, and Hella H4 bulbs. It was straightforward and easy to install. And that's what I was expecting with the WK.

NOPE!

Lets be fair, the low beams on the WK suck. Thankfully you can get some Philips 9011 series 3000 lumen bulbs that are easy to modify to fit in the WK.

Tools needed:
-a flathead screw driver or knife for the plastic rivets (or a plastic rivet remover, which I highly suggest)
-ratchet
-10mm socket


1) Buy the bulbs. I used rallylights.com (Susquhanna Motorsports) for these bulbs. Warning: If you're in Canada/international, Susquehanna uses UPS, so you'll have to wear a $40-$50 brokerage/duties charge. Make sure you ask for USPS, it's almost a guarantee that there'll be no charge. It'll just take longer to get the package. Update Jan 2015: Susquehanna now offers USPS in their check-out, you no longer to specify it. When I ordered, I bought 4 bulbs to lower the average cost when including shipping and duty/taxes. For my 4 bulbs, I paid around $15 in taxes/duty.

2) Modify the new bulbs. The red area is what you need to remove. I used an 8" metal file.


Update 2015: If you are only replacing low or high bulbs, you may skip steps 3, 4, and 5. It's a tight fit, but if you're careful, and you contort your hand you can remove and re-install the new bulbs without much of a fight. However if you plan on removing the headlight unit proper, you'll need to remove the bumper as there is a plastic tab that prevents easy removal of the headlight unit.

3) Open your hood. Pull the plastic rivets holding the grill. Pull the bumper. There's, IIRC, 6 metal screws (1 on top, 1 on either side in the wheel wells, and 3 below the bumper attached to the plastic skid) and several plastic rivets. This'll take some time, but if you're careful, it'll be okay. I tried using the Factory Service Manual, but that only told me where the headlight unit screws were.


4) Pull the black "skeleton" bracket that's behind the bumper. It's secured by 2 screws.

5) Unscrew the 3 screws holding in the headlight unit. You'll need to jimmy the light out.

6) Twist out the old low beam (Lows are on the outboard side above the turn signal)

7) Install new lights. On the left is the new Philips bulb, with the old grey bulb on the left. The old ones (on the left) and the new Philps bulbs use rails inside the light to slot into the headlight plug. The new ones, because they use 2 rails instead of the stock single rail, will need some force to fit onto the plug. Rest assured they DO fit.


8) Enjoy brighter lights! With the greater light input, you can really see how sharp the cut-off is from the lamp unit itself.

Update Jan 2015:

The bulbs burned out on me, about a week apart from one another. So I got just over 2 years of usage out of them. I also discovered that removing the bumper was made exceptionally more difficult by having the 4XG front skid. To get at the 3 bottom bolts on the bumper, you have to snake a wrench through the opening slats. When I saw this, I figured I'd give it another go with contorting my hand to change the bulbs, as per several users who very politely ( :) ) suggested that there was absolutely no need to remove the bumper, if you could contort your hands.

So, to change the high or low bulbs, there is no requirement to remove the bumper! However, if you want to get access to the headlight unit proper - to remove it - my experience is that bumper removal is still required.

My DIY walkthrough is still pertinent (up to step 2) as I show a comparison of the bulbs, and which bit of plastic needs removal for successful installation in our WKs.

This is an easy upgrade, one that I would very highly recommend to all WK owners.

You can use either. 9011's require more juice and put out more lumens. They are also slightly more work to get them to work.

9011's base are just like 9005's with 2300+ lumens
9012's base are just like 9006's with 1700+ lumens

People have been installing 9005's in 9006 housings for years (Like my old integra)

how were you guys putting the 9011's in the low beam spot... They fit loosy goossy as hell. Fit perfectly as the high beams Though.
This is what I did: (borrowed pics from another site) We should probably address this in the OP.

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/diy-honda-civic-lighting/65531-diy-convert-9005-bulb-fit-9006-harness-increase-visibility.html


The base of the 9005 is smaller.
I used the rubber seal from the old 9006 bulb






Works great.
 

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This might be helpful to some of you:


Installed some 9011's in fogs and in lows to have a comparison vs the stock 9145 fogs and my upgraded HIR2's (9012's) in my lows.

Looks like the 9011's in the fogs may be a bit blinding, although i wasn't on level ground, and it doesn't throw any light above the low beam cutoff so it should be fine. I'll have to try it again and drive it around to see what the cutoff is like @ a distance.

Fogs first:
STock (older) 9145 fogs

9011's in drivers side fog and 9145's in passenger (you can see that I borrowed my HIR1's from my denali in the background)





Ok and 9011's in passenger side low beam vs 9012's in drivers side. Note the increased color temperature (measured in kelvins) Looks the the HIR1's are more of a cool white (more pure white, than the HIR2's which appear to be warmer (more yellow)




Cutoff still seems fine against the garage door (the light bleed you are seeing above the cutoff is actually a reflection from the metal door), hard to tell the difference in brightness there though.


Keep in mind that I am comparing HIR1's to HIR2's If i was comparing HIR1's to 9006 (our stock bulbs) the difference would be HUGE

This is with no relays or any modifications to the vehicle @ all. I have simply modified the base of the bulb so that it fits in our housings and the little guide tabs in the base of the bulb so that our wiring harness plugs in.


The 9011's are available @ rockauto for ~$25 shipped for a pair. Best bang for your buck lighting upgrade possible IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow! Awesome! Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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Thanks for the link! I really dislike the layout and navigation of the site which is why I shy away from it but it sounds like they usually offer some competitive pricing. I can never find what I need! lol. Thanks again!
I had a hard time @ first. I actually like it better now then most other sites.
 
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