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yes another HID thread...through work i can get HID kits for 150 bux (CAD)...the brand is VIsion X i believe...any way i've been hearing both good and bad about adding HID's onto the 06 commander...what are some issues you guys have run into?
 

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I've posted this elsewhere, but oh well. :)

You'll likely run into the infamous ''soft start'' circuit. (Assuming the HID's will be installed into the headlights) The headlight circuit is not a conventional on/off circuit, it's a transistor driven one to make it easier on the light bulbs. (By eliminating the high inrush current on a cold filament)

So... the HID's start up okay, they just won't shut down. They'll flicker and not restart when you turn the lights on and off. (Or when the computer decides to turn them on/off) That's because the circuit hasn't shut down all the way, and the HID's can't reset and/or restart. The key off for a while or unplugging the HID ballasts lets them restart. Or... you turn off the lights, and the HID's flicker for the next minute or so.

The flickering problem is BAD for the HID's because they're trying to restart themselves with not enough voltage. The ballast can't take that for very long, so the problem MUST be dealt with before installing them into the low beams.

I'll have to try this idea in the next few days when I get time. I think a load resistor will cure the crap. There's plenty around this radio shop to use for experiments. A source for them can be found here: http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

Look at the bottom of the page at their load resistors. A lot of vehicles depend on the current of a light bulb, and the resistor can ''fake out'' burned out bulb detection and the like.

I'll post my findings in the next few days on this and the other HID threads. As for now, my new Surco roof rack is waiting for me at home. :) The HID problem can wait.
 

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I installed two kits this week. One I returned because the bulbs did not fit well, there was no relay and NO customer service. I found one on ebay and turns out the distributor is around the corner from me. Digital ballasts, 1 year warranty, very nice quality kits. It took me 10 minutes to test and make sure it worked and 2 hours to beautify and run all the wires and stuff nicely.
Best part, cost me $150 Canadian with everything. Has been installed since Tuesday and works beautifully. If anyone is interested, I will find the link and post.
 

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I finally got around to experimenting. I was busy finishing my roof rack light wiring etc.

So... yes, it 'likes' a resistive load. I made up a stack of multi-watt resistors to about 15 ohms, which gives it an amp or so draw.

You should also add a high current capacity diode to the circuit, with the diode's band and/or cathode towards the ballast. The resistor should be on the anode side. That will isolate the ballast's inductive kickback from getting into the Jeep circuits. I doubt the Jeep's circuits take too many times of that happening before something gives.

Another way would be to use a relay, load the relay coil with a resistor, (Tapped to one relay coil leg, the other end to ground) and power the ballast separately from a direct (circuit breaker) battery feed.

The bad news, or at least annoying news, is the two lights seem to be on separate circuits. You'll have to double the above - one for each light.

On edit, it may depend on the HID ballast that's in the kit. Some may well have built in diodes and loading circuits just for such crap. That would explain why some HID conversions have the flickering, won't turn off or restart problem, others don't.
 

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Update

Have had the HID's in for over a week now. The only issue I have experienced so far; when you turn off (or the auto lights turn off) the headlights during the day, the Daytime running lights kick in, the dash lights turn off but the HID's stay on. If you shut the car off, or if it is night and the DRL's do not kick in, the HID's shut off no problem. I stopped the other day and the HID's were on. I turned on my 4 way flashers and shut the car off. When I came back to the car, the HID's were still on. It seems as long as there is a signal of some sort, DRL or flashers, the headlights do not shut down. A bit of a pain but not huge in the scheme of things and I love the extra vision at night.
 

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Adondo,
Would this work to stop the flickering and lights staying on?
w w w.hidspeed.com/HID_Digital_Harness_p/acc-warning-cancaller.htm

They also describe some solutions on their FAQ page.

I've bought two kits from them (one for my motorcycle and one for a set of my PIAA 520s and they work really well. I'm just afraid to get a set for my low beams on the Jeep because I don't want to have the same problem as others.

Thanks!
Erik
 

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I originally installed my HID kit with no relays or anything, simply plugged it in. Of course, the flickering problem occurred when the lights were turned off. So, I bought a relay that ran the headlight power from the battery and the HIDs work fine now. The only thing is when initially tuning them on, they flicker for approximately 1-2 seconds, but then stay on no problem (I believe this is normal for HIDs).
 

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I looked at their website’s FAQ page. It’s pretty accurate except for a couple of items. The HID’s do NOT draw only 35 watts to start. From measurements here at the workbench, an HID ballast draws about 135 watts (about 10.5 amps) for a couple of seconds of startup surge, dropping current consumption as the HID elements fire off and brighten up. The final current draw on the four HID systems I tested are 3.8 amps. (About 45 watts) The HID elements themselves are rated 35 watts, but there’s a little ‘’overhead’ in the ballast to produce the high voltage that runs them.

As I thought, the ‘’luxury vehicles’’ headlight systems are transistor circuits. So, they need to be ‘’fooled’’ into thinking a light bulb is in the circuit. I do like how their resistors are ‘’programmed’’ to work. Like my 18 ohms in my experiments… the circuit just needs a resistive load rather than inductive as the HID ballast acts on the circuit. I’d add a cheap resistor before I spent $55 for their plug-in setup, although for the average installer, there’s something to be said about plug ‘n’ play. Their ‘warning canceller’ is just a resistor to add a load to the circuit like what I did when playing around last week. And, like I also figured, they’re sold in pairs, so each headlight is on a separate computer circuit. (Hence one canceller for each light)

I mentioned this before: the flickering problem when the headlights are turned OFF is because the headlight circuit does not shut completely down. The HID’s are trying to stay lit with insufficient voltage and current. The Jeep circuit eventually dies or times out, and the HID’s finally quit. Or… you try to turn them back on after the flickering stops and they won’t. That’s because the headlight circuit voltage craps out to the point the HID’s quit flickering, yet is still semi-on so the ballast can’t reset. That’s what my XK does.

Flickering a few times when they’re first turned ON is a completely different thing, and is normal for HID’s. What happens is the ballast supplies about 25,000 volts to get an arc started in the HID element. That voltage drops off as the arc stabilizes, and ends up around 85 volts from then on. On a bench power supply, I discovered the arc stays stable until the ballast’s incoming voltage drops to about 9 volts or less. When the supply voltage is that low, the arc can’t stay alive anymore, but the HID flickers as the ballast tries its best to keep it running. That’s what’s happening in the Commander – the computer keeps the lights semi-powered, and the ballast is trying to run on 8.5 to 9 volts.

I do have to say that incoming voltage stability is a major plus for HID’s. A battery with only 9 volts is pretty much considered DEAD, yet you still have lights running at 100% output. That will get you home or out of the dark woods if your alternator ever dies – just don’t turn off the HID’s – they might not restart.
 

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HID Kits for my 2010 Commander

I am new to this stuff but just bought my 2010 commander Limited and needed to do something to the lights. I purchased them through a guy who owns a shop for 100.00 per kit for digital slim ballast which almost sounded too good to be true. They were perfect but I did have to run a relay to the battery to stop the flickering when they would shut off.
 

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I am new to this stuff but just bought my 2010 commander Limited and needed to do something to the lights. I purchased them through a guy who owns a shop for 100.00 per kit for digital slim ballast which almost sounded too good to be true. They were perfect but I did have to run a relay to the battery to stop the flickering when they would shut off.
Your link was removed, if you are spamming we are not interested, if you are new and sharing information read the rules first. Thank You.
 

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49er fan, appreciate the advice, not trying to spam. I literally just bought my jeep and wanted to try this out. you guys seem to know a lot about this. I will check out the rules. Thanks.
 

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49er fan, appreciate the advice, not trying to spam. I literally just bought my jeep and wanted to try this out. you guys seem to know a lot about this. I will check out the rules. Thanks.
Great & Welcome to Commander Ownership.
 

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HID Relay

Hi, right now i have the same problem you used to have and I would like to know what type of relay did you get and where I can get this. I will really thank you for all your support with this issue.

I originally installed my HID kit with no relays or anything, simply plugged it in. Of course, the flickering problem occurred when the lights were turned off. So, I bought a relay that ran the headlight power from the battery and the HIDs work fine now. The only thing is when initially tuning them on, they flicker for approximately 1-2 seconds, but then stay on no problem (I believe this is normal for HIDs).
 

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HID's and resistors

As I thought, the ‘’luxury vehicles’’ headlight systems are transistor circuits. So, they need to be ‘’fooled’’ into thinking a light bulb is in the circuit. I do like how their resistors are ‘’programmed’’ to work. Like my 18 ohms in my experiments… the circuit just needs a resistive load rather than inductive as the HID ballast acts on the circuit. I’d add a cheap resistor before I spent $55 for their plug-in setup,
I bought a kit that included an extra plug in harness, it was meant to make HID's work with mordern cars such as BMW, Mercs & Dodge. I thought this would also be similar to the Commander. This extra plug in harness is meant to stop error codes and flickering. No it doesn't, my HID's still flicker when turned off.
I removed the heat shrink from this extra harness and there's one capacitor 1000uF 25v connected between the (+) & (-) wires.

Can some one advise me should i leave this capacitor harness there and if so can I then solder an 18 ohms resistor in line. Which side of this capacitor harnessshould the resitor go, the car side before the capacitor or after ther capacitor before the ballast?
What is the spec for the resistor 18ohm how many watts?
Please use layman terms as I not electronics tech. I look forward to your advise.
 
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