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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I was looking over the Jeep and saw something that looked like crystals on the over flow tank removeable filler neck in the tank. So i removed the filler neck and it was foamish. So removed the radiator cap and there was a pinkish orange sludge/gunk on the wall of the radiator. Is that normal at 19,000 miles on a 5.7l?

Jk
 

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How long have you owned the vehicle? Has the coolant been changed out at any point? I'm assuming it's a Commander, what year/engine?
 

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Have you checked the Owner's Manual ?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Have you checked the Owner's Manual ?
I have checked owners manual, service manuals, TSB's, Recalls, google and there is nothing about it. Thanks for asking though.

It isn't transmission fluid due to the fact they are two seperate radiators that are not contained within each other.

2007 5.7l limited 19000 miles. Fluid has not been changed.

Also the sludge is slick like its a lube, does it have a additive that would cause this?
 

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Did you buy the Commander new or used? Also have you ever added more coolant? If so what brand?
 

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After a couple of years, getting some residue from evaporation on the Expansion Tank is pretty much normal. When I drain and replace the Coolant, I often remove the tank and clean it well.

Short Answer: Change out your coolant with the Mopar Stuff or Zerex G-05 (aftermarket equalevalent). Thats what I did with my '02 Caravan (Mopar HOAT Coolant) and the gunk never came back, I also changed it every 3ys/60k miles, instead of the recommended 5yr/100k miles. Use Distilled Water.

Long Answer:
DexCool does NOT mix with other anti-freezes, HOAT does, but its NOT recommended. i.e. a little bit of other coolants mixed in DexCool can cause big problems, a lot of other coolants mixed in with HOAT may cause some problems.

Chrylser dying their later HOAT the same color of the earlier more commonly know DexCool is Dumb, and people (who don't check their owner's manual, like an idiot) can mistake it for dexcool and add dexcool to their HOAT. That would create some problems, depending on how much dexcool you added.

DexCool has an entirely different approach to anti-corrosion, it will last for 5-6 easily, if your cooling system is functioning 100% and nothing else gets mixed in it, it doesn't get low or have leaks, etc. Basically, the slightest thing goes wrong with DexCool and the problem becomes a 10 times worse with Dexcool.

HOAT has sort a hybrid approach to anti-corrosion that is closer to the old proven green anti-freeze. Like the old green anti-freeze, you can have problems with your cooling system and that does NOT effect the coolant and its still protects adequately. BUT, its anti-corrosion additives get consumed while providing that protection, and once consumed the protection is reduced. That is why I've seen multiple recommendations to change out HOAT coolant ealier than recommended, like at 4 or 3 years/60k-80k miles, don't wait for the 5 years/100k miles recommendation.

In my '02 Mini-Van with HOAT, I've gotten that orangish sludge at the very top of the coolant level at the radiator cap, it was just a little. I drained all the coolant (NOT just the radiator), flushed with Distilled water, and refilled with Zerex G-05 (aftermarket HOAT anti-freeze) 50/50 mix with distilled water. (My normal coolant change). Never had the orangish sludge come back, done coolant changes every 3 years.

The slick, oil feel that the coolant leaves behind, I've gotten that everytime at coolant changes, even the fresh HOAT seems to have a little bit of that feel on the surfaces, but yes, it does seem a little worse with older HOAT. I've concluded (right or wrong) that it was just a property of HOAT anti-freeze.

HOAT uses the silicates and a tiny bit of phosophates (NOT sure, maybe its just Silicates) of the old green anti-freeze and some new anti-corrosion additives that coat the metal of the cooling system to protect. Perhaps the new addtives give the slick, oily feel.

DexCool uses a chemical that stops the ionic reaction that causes rust, it doesn't coat the any of the parts, thus it doesn't repair any of the damage from cavitation like other anti-freezes, and the chemical will soften certain plastics and rubbers often used in cooling systems, causing leaks. SO, you never want to use DexCool unless its in a vehicle specifically designed for dexcool. If the coolant level gets low in the engine and air is in the system, DexCool, since it doesn't coat the metal parts, has to be in contact with the metal to protect. So, with Dexcool, if there is air in your cooling system, the exposed to air metals starts to corrode and it corrodes fast, and the rust sluffs off and forms the orange foam and gunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After a couple of years, getting some residue from evaporation on the Expansion Tank is pretty much normal. When I drain and replace the Coolant, I often remove the tank and clean it well.

Short Answer: Change out your coolant with the Mopar Stuff or Zerex G-05 (aftermarket equalevalent). Thats what I did with my '02 Caravan (Mopar HOAT Coolant) and the gunk never came back, I also changed it every 3ys/60k miles, instead of the recommended 5yr/100k miles. Use Distilled Water.

Long Answer:
DexCool does NOT mix with other anti-freezes, HOAT does, but its NOT recommended. i.e. a little bit of other coolants mixed in DexCool can cause big problems, a lot of other coolants mixed in with HOAT may cause some problems.

Chrylser dying their later HOAT the same color of the earlier more commonly know DexCool is Dumb, and people (who don't check their owner's manual, like an idiot) can mistake it for dexcool and add dexcool to their HOAT. That would create some problems, depending on how much dexcool you added.

DexCool has an entirely different approach to anti-corrosion, it will last for 5-6 easily, if your cooling system is functioning 100% and nothing else gets mixed in it, it doesn't get low or have leaks, etc. Basically, the slightest thing goes wrong with DexCool and the problem becomes a 10 times worse with Dexcool.

HOAT has sort a hybrid approach to anti-corrosion that is closer to the old proven green anti-freeze. Like the old green anti-freeze, you can have problems with your cooling system and that does NOT effect the coolant and its still protects adequately. BUT, its anti-corrosion additives get consumed while providing that protection, and once consumed the protection is reduced. That is why I've seen multiple recommendations to change out HOAT coolant ealier than recommended, like at 4 or 3 years/60k-80k miles, don't wait for the 5 years/100k miles recommendation.

In my '02 Mini-Van with HOAT, I've gotten that orangish sludge at the very top of the coolant level at the radiator cap, it was just a little. I drained all the coolant (NOT just the radiator), flushed with Distilled water, and refilled with Zerex G-05 (aftermarket HOAT anti-freeze) 50/50 mix with distilled water. (My normal coolant change). Never had the orangish sludge come back, done coolant changes every 3 years.

The slick, oil feel that the coolant leaves behind, I've gotten that everytime at coolant changes, even the fresh HOAT seems to have a little bit of that feel on the surfaces, but yes, it does seem a little worse with older HOAT. I've concluded (right or wrong) that it was just a property of HOAT anti-freeze.

HOAT uses the silicates and a tiny bit of phosophates (NOT sure, maybe its just Silicates) of the old green anti-freeze and some new anti-corrosion additives that coat the metal of the cooling system to protect. Perhaps the new addtives give the slick, oily feel.

DexCool uses a chemical that stops the ionic reaction that causes rust, it doesn't coat the any of the parts, thus it doesn't repair any of the damage from cavitation like other anti-freezes, and the chemical will soften certain plastics and rubbers often used in cooling systems, causing leaks. SO, you never want to use DexCool unless its in a vehicle specifically designed for dexcool. If the coolant level gets low in the engine and air is in the system, DexCool, since it doesn't coat the metal parts, has to be in contact with the metal to protect. So, with Dexcool, if there is air in your cooling system, the exposed to air metals starts to corrode and it corrodes fast, and the rust sluffs off and forms the orange foam and gunk.
So its normal in the tank, What about in the radiator?

Bought it new, never added any coolant to the system.
 

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So its normal in the tank, What about in the radiator?

Bought it new, never added any coolant to the system.
I got it in the radiator, and then it was just a tiny bit, just on the coolant surface of the radiator fill neck where the pressure cap is, coating a little bit on the inside of the filler neck.

I never got it in the expansion tank, it sounded like you had some crusting / residue on the inside of the expansion tank, that comes from evaporation and leaving some crusting/residue on the surface of the tank.

If you're getting foam in the expansion tank, you might have a lot of foam all through the system. I'd flush it out. I'd drain it, as much as you can, pull the hoses, open the drain plugs on the water jackets, fill it with water, run till warmed up and drain again, do it several times, until the water run clears.

I don't like using the corrosive chemical flushes, it can be bad for the seals and the water pump. BUT, sometimes if there is too much gunk you have to resort to the harsh chemical flushes. If you do, then flush (as in fill and drain) with fresh water several times afterwards to get all the chemical out. Then fill with the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got it in the radiator, and then it was just a tiny bit, just on the coolant surface of the radiator fill neck where the pressure cap is, coating a little bit on the inside of the filler neck.

I never got it in the expansion tank, it sounded like you had some crusting / residue on the inside of the expansion tank, that comes from evaporation and leaving some crusting/residue on the surface of the tank.

If you're getting foam in the expansion tank, you might have a lot of foam all through the system. I'd flush it out. I'd drain it, as much jas you can, pull the hoses, open the drain plugs on the water jackets, fill it with water, run till warmed up and drain again, do it several times, until the water run clears.

I don't like using the corrosive chemical flushes, it can be bad for the seals and the water pump. BUT, sometimes if there is too much gunk you have to resort to the harsh chemical flushes. If you do, then flush (as in fill and drain) with fresh water several times afterwards to get all the chemical out. Then fill with the coolant.
Here's the way I see it. Its under warrenty, it has not meet the requirement for fluid change so the dealer can figure it out. Bumper to bumper Lifetime warrenty, if they say its fine so be it. If they say its bad they need to change it at their expense due to the fact it has not worked as advertised. If it would have meet the change requirement I would gladly change it, if they say its good and the cooling system fails 4 years later its on them.
 

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Here's the way I see it. Its under warrenty, it has not meet the requirement for fluid change so the dealer can figure it out. Bumper to bumper Lifetime warrenty, if they say its fine so be it. If they say its bad they need to change it at their expense due to the fact it has not worked as advertised. If it would have meet the change requirement I would gladly change it, if they say its good and the cooling system fails 4 years later its on them.
There is no bumper to bumper lifetime warranty. You might have the Chysler Max Care Warranty but it will not cover damage due to having the wrong fluid in your vehicle.
 

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There was a post a while back with someone who had a lot of sludge pretty much the same as you describe. Search around the forum and you might find it. They had some pics, maybe its the same thing. If I'm not mistaken, the consensus was that its not uncommon and nothing to worry about. It was a while ago though, and my memory might be off.
 

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Those pictures I posted relates to oil vapors cooling down, not engine coolant. I mentioned in the thread about coolant loss which turned out to be nothing. So that thread does not relate to your scenario.
 

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There is no bumper to bumper lifetime warranty. You might have the Chysler Max Care Warranty but it will not cover damage due to having the wrong fluid in your vehicle.
There was a recent thread where someone thought there Commander used DexCool because the coolant was pink color, but in this thread the original poster insists that he has owned the vehicle since new and never added any coolant, so it must be the original factory fill in there.

I would think coolant problems would be covered under the powertrain warranty, which, I think, Chrysler has changed the coverage between '06 and '10, so it may or may NOT be covered under the powertrain warranty.

Another thing NOT considered yet; the original poster said the foam was slick and oily. It is possible you have a head gasket leak, allowing oil into the coolant. It usually allows coolant into the oil, and often the coolant level drops as it leaks out the head gasket leak. Check the oil, is it milky? Or signs of coolant in it? Has your coolant level been dropping.

My limited experience with HOAT, it seems to have an oily feel, and leave an oily feel to the surfaces inside the cooling system, and that oily feel seems worse with older coolant. I had a little bit of orangish foam, a simple flush with water and fresh coolant in my mini-van and it never came back. It might be that simple, NOT sure of the source of the orangish foam I got, maybe some contamination, maybe its a natural by-product.
 

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I just checked my Commander, 27k miles, still has the HOAT factory fill. The expansion tank is clean, the OEM HOAT coolant is pink and on the opaque side, under the pressure cap, in the filler neck to the radiator, it does look orange, even more opaque than the tank and even looks a little cloudy. I wouldn't call it foam, but it definitely looks orange and different than what I'm used to see in the radiator. And it feels oily, like you describe.

This brings back memories of my Factory Fill HOAT in my Mini-Van. I remember it looking a lot like this and wondering if rust was getting suspended in the anti-freeze.

I did a little experiment, I used a bulb to suck up some of the coolant and squirt it into a clear bottle. Guess what, once in the light of a clear bottle its pink and clear as whats in the expansion tank. I shined a flashlight down the filler neck, it looked better, pinkish but still a lot of orange. I really think its an effect of light with it being a black filler neck and NOT getting back lit.

This was pretty normal in my mini-van. I refilled with Zerex G-05, which is gold in color, as the coolant aged it turned more orange and felt more and more oily.

Is your HOAT really FOAMY? Or does it look cloudy?

Just keep in mind, my mini-van used to concern me, because the coolant would darken toward orange and get more opaque, especially when NOT back lit in a clear container, and feel more oily with age/use. The G-05 did the same thing. I changed it every 3 years and never had a single cooling system problem in my mini-van in 188k miles. Only exception, I changed the water pump at 120k miles, because it started to weep a little bit of coolant from time to time. Thats actually much better than average for mini-vans.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just checked my Commander, 27k miles, still has the HOAT factory fill. The expansion tank is clean, the OEM HOAT coolant is pink and on the opaque side, under the pressure cap, in the filler neck to the radiator, it does look orange, even more opaque than the tank and even looks a little cloudy. I wouldn't call it foam, but it definitely looks orange and different than what I'm used to see in the radiator. And it feels oily, like you describe.

This brings back memories of my Factory Fill HOAT in my Mini-Van. I remember it looking a lot like this and wondering if rust was getting suspended in the anti-freeze.

I did a little experiment, I used a bulb to suck up some of the coolant and squirt it into a clear bottle. Guess what, once in the light of a clear bottle its pink and clear as whats in the expansion tank. I shined a flashlight down the filler neck, it looked better, pinkish but still a lot of orange. I really think its an effect of light with it being a black filler neck and NOT getting back lit.

This was pretty normal in my mini-van. I refilled with Zerex G-05, which is gold in color, as the coolant aged it turned more orange and felt more and more oily.

Is your HOAT really FOAMY? Or does it look cloudy?

Just keep in mind, my mini-van used to concern me, because the coolant would darken toward orange and get more opaque, especially when NOT back lit in a clear container, and feel more oily with age/use. The G-05 did the same thing. I changed it every 3 years and never had a single cooling system problem in my mini-van in 188k miles. Only exception, I changed the water pump at 120k miles, because it started to weep a little bit of coolant from time to time. Thats actually much better than average for mini-vans.
Maybe you need to read the first post again.
 

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Maybe you need to read the first post again.
06h said:
So I was looking over the Jeep and saw something that looked like crystals on the over flow tank removeable filler neck in the tank. So i removed the filler neck and it was foamish. So removed the radiator cap and there was a pinkish orange sludge/gunk on the wall of the radiator. Is that normal at 19,000 miles on a 5.7l?
The point I'm trying to get across, the HOAT, with no backlight in the radiator, does look different, and when you get to 19k miles it does darken and look a little different, even looks cloudy in the dark radiator.

Depends on what degree are you talking about? If you pulled the radiator cap and foam expanded and overflowed out of the top of the filler neck, and was spilling over on the ground, yea, something is wrong. But if you just took a quick look and didn't use a flashlight OR didn't pull some fluid and looked in a clear bottle, maybe its normal.

Either way, good luck, take it to the dealer. My experience with most dealers, if its in warranty, they'll tell you its normal and fine, if its out of warranty they'll tell you something is seriously wrong and you'll need $1100 of repairs.
 
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