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Discussion Starter #1
5.7L hemi. 2006 Commander.

Ive had the thing for two weeks and the starter is bad. The dealer wants $350 which is crazy. The starter is only $100.

How hard is it to do myself, what is gonna be in the way? I haven't poked my head under there to look yet.

And it is definetly the starter. The battery is fine and from back searchin threads, these things are notorious for goin bad.
 

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A couple of the members have the shop manuals. Maybe they can look it up for you.
 

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This should be a relative easy job. The starter should be mounted I believe on the driver side, underneath... I found the following from an earlier thread:

"..To access the starter you must remove the shield below the engine. The starter is a 4 to 5 inch diameter cylindrical assembly oriented longways, fore and aft. It will have 3 wires attached. 1 of the three is the battery cable [large diameter] It is attached at the junction of engine and transmission..."

Good luck!
 

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Just finished it up. Took about 2 hours. You have to unbolt the drive shaft in order to get the starter out. It is extremely tight in the are it is a real pain to access the short wiring for it. Btw, its only 100 bucks for a brand new starter right from the dealer.
 

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Just finished it up. Took about 2 hours. You have to unbolt the drive shaft in order to get the starter out. It is extremely tight in the are it is a real pain to access the short wiring for it. Btw, its only 100 bucks for a brand new starter right from the dealer.
$100 for a new starter is interesting. I had to have mine replaced for the second time, only this time it was out of warranty so it was done under my non-dealer extended warranty which still after two months has not reimbursed me, but the starter was listed as $29.00 which I could not belive. I even questioned the service rep and she verified it was an OEM part. MAybe that is why they go out so often.
 

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$100 for a new starter is interesting. I had to have mine replaced for the second time, only this time it was out of warranty so it was done under my non-dealer extended warranty which still after two months has not reimbursed me, but the starter was listed as $29.00 which I could not belive. I even questioned the service rep and she verified it was an OEM part. MAybe that is why they go out so often.
They are definetly questionable quality. $29.00 sounds like cost. I could have bought a new OEM direct from chrysler online for 70 bucks. MSRP is 90. Autozone or napa or advance all want around 180 for a rebuild, not even new.

But I didn't want to wait the extra day and hear my girlfriend bitch about it.

How many miles did yours last? Mine was at 70k, but I am second owner so who knows if it was replaced prior.
 

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They are definetly questionable quality. $29.00 sounds like cost. I could have bought a new OEM direct from chrysler online for 70 bucks. MSRP is 90. Autozone or napa or advance all want around 180 for a rebuild, not even new.

But I didn't want to wait the extra day and hear my girlfriend bitch about it.

How many miles did yours last? Mine was at 70k, but I am second owner so who knows if it was replaced prior.
First went at 20K the second at 56K. The problem with the second time was they said the problem was the skim module and charged me $800.00 for a new module and 2 new keys. A week later I had it towed back and they changed the starter. Extended warranty did not cover the first trip. :sick:
 

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First went at 20K the second at 56K. The problem with the second time was they said the problem was the skim module and charged me $800.00 for a new module and 2 new keys. A week later I had it towed back and they changed the starter. Extended warranty did not cover the first trip. :sick:
Skim module? Whats that?
 

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It's a module module.
 

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I just finished the starter change over. Not too challenging of a project, but definately a tight access with limited line of sight. As mentioned earlier, you must drop the drive shaft (not necessary to fully remove, just unbolt and slide out of the way). Remove the plastic wheel well liner to gain somewhat a line of sight to the unhook and reconnect the wiring. The harness is very short and does not allow the starter to be lowered / removed with the starter. The hardest part was the wiring due to the fact that it is a very tight access hole you are working thru with limited line of sight. If you are mechanical and have a basic set of tools this is do able project. Some patience is required with the wiring because of the tight access and limited sight thru an awkward access area. 5.7L Hemi with 62k miles. Started out with no start problem...just a click when you turned the key. Numerous times engaging the starter would finally make a connection and the vehicle would start. The wife did not find this a comforting thing to experience (imagine that) $93.10 from the dealer plus tax for the part. By the way, the starter that was removed had a part # suffix of B and the new starter installed has a suffix of C. I assume this is due to internal design changes to the starter.
 

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Not too hard, but yeah, it's tight in there. I didn't disconnect the drive shaft. The starter will fit through the hole in the wheel well if you're any good at Tetris.
 

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I just did mine a few weeks ago, $84.95 from dealer. Took about 2 hours to do the job.

Went through the wheel well to remove wires and starter, used 3 long extentions with a swivel to remove the bolts.

New starter has different bolt pattern for the heat shield so you have to re-drill the shield. I wanted a new shield but dealer didnt have one and told me thats what they do as well.
 

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Well I have the same issue. Dropped it at the dealer last week for manifold gasket noises. Went to pick it up today and it wouldn't start LOL Better there than anywhere else.

Anyways, for some added information:
The mechanic that has been working on my vehicle has 35 years experience and has been really straight up with me. He says that it is RARE that the starter would EVER be bad. EVER. The typical issue is the wiring harness that connects to the starter gets loose and or dirty ($18). He crawled under the commander and wiggle the wire as I started it. STARTED RIGHT UP. All they do to fix this is splice in a new wiring harness and shrink tube it. This was going to cost me $180 and isn't covered under my warranty so they are going to go ahead and put in a new STARTER and HARNESS for my $200 deductible. (plus a free rental car)

I guess i'm just trying to educate some of you guys that want to do this yourself and hopefully you can just try the wiring harness first and save yourself some time and MONEY.
 

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I'm in the same delima right now with my Commander. Turn the key and the soleonid kicks in but the starter won't spin. Pulled the starter out and the wonderful folks at Auto Zone assured me that the starter was fine on their tester. I have the 4.7 and by removing the inner fender on the drivers side the starter will come out, it takes a little wiggling but it will come out that hole. The wiring is a real pain to get the clip on connection off but doable. Is there any way to test the wiring with a VOM for correct voltage/amperage with the starter out?
 

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2006 V6 commander. Did NOT have to remove the Wheel Well. I was able to lift the car, remove the bolts and Wire assembly. The I removed it (solenoid) Face down, along side the oil pan. I did have to remove the skid plate to access it also!
 
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