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I need a new key for my 06. I have two keys but the battery clip is broke off of one so it will start the Jeep but has no remote capability. I planned to buy another key and program it with the DIY feature (requires two working keys) but then I saw a note on a website that said the DIY feature will no longer work after the ignition recall has been done. Apparently the new ignition design will not allow me to program a new key. Can anyone confirm that? If true, must I go to a dealer to get the job done? Can I buy a blank online and then get dealer (or locksmith?) to program it for me?
 

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New Key

I needed a new key, went to the dealer and they said they could get one and program it for X amount ( I forget how much) or I could get one from E-bay and they would program it for more money than the factory key and would not garrantee it, so I bought the dealer key and it worked fine.


Swanny
 

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I need a new key for my 06. I have two keys but the battery clip is broke off of one so it will start the Jeep but has no remote capability. I planned to buy another key and program it with the DIY feature (requires two working keys) but then I saw a note on a website that said the DIY feature will no longer work after the ignition recall has been done. Apparently the new ignition design will not allow me to program a new key. Can anyone confirm that? If true, must I go to a dealer to get the job done? Can I buy a blank online and then get dealer (or locksmith?) to program it for me?
Have you been to Chrysler's safety recall website to see if you have had the P41 recall for the ignition switch completed yet?

Safety Recall Information | MOPAR

If you haven't - get it completed, you'll get a new ignition switch and a new set of keys for free.

See the attached notice;
 

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I need a new key for my 06. I have two keys but the battery clip is broke off of one so it will start the Jeep but has no remote capability. I planned to buy another key and program it with the DIY feature (requires two working keys) but then I saw a note on a website that said the DIY feature will no longer work after the ignition recall has been done. Apparently the new ignition design will not allow me to program a new key. Can anyone confirm that? If true, must I go to a dealer to get the job done? Can I buy a blank online and then get dealer (or locksmith?) to program it for me?
Sir (our 2006 Commander, all our vehicles have names here) had the ignition switch recall service done about a year ago. At the time we had both original keys, but one of them was damaged and the remote was non-functional.

I asked about getting a replacement key while Sir was getting the recall service (and the campaign for the 4wd controller issue), and I was quoted almost $200 for key + "programming service." That came from the service writer. While they were working on him, I walked over to the parts counter and priced buying the key myself, and IIRC, I was quoted over $150 for just the key (the parts manager knows me and that was a "discounted" price). I also got the key code for Sir from the parts manager there.

When I got home from the service appointment, I ordered this key from Amazon (wow, it was $17.95 when I bought it), along with a new button pad for the damaged key. When those arrived, I took them to a locksmith who can cut keys from the code and had him cut the new key to match the locks on Sir (our 2006 Commander). I also showed him the worn metal keys on our other two keys and he had replacements for the metal sections on those and cut 2 new metal keys from the code to replace the worn metal on our old keys.

I was able to add the new key using the procedure in the owner's manual (also documented online, and there was a sheet with the new complete key with the same procedure on it). It worked for Sir after his ignition switch replacement for the recall. Sir doesn't read the Internet, though, so he just might not have known. Maybe the computers and scan tools at the $tealership didn't tell him he wasn't supposed to accept new keys after the recall.

I honestly don't remember if the transponder chip on these keys is on the metal part or in the remote electronics on the plastic head (I've done replacement key sets for at least 3 cars and trucks in the past year). If the chip was on the metal part, I would have "added" each key after using the old metal key's to activate the learn procedure, using the last two keys added to add the next.

All I know is that we now have 2 fully functional, freshly cut, unworn keys with remotes which we carry, one spare key with a dead remote head (the button pad didn't fix it, there was damage to the electronics in that one) and somewhere around here there are two metal keys without heads which work the locks, but which probably will not start him.
If you haven't - get it completed, you'll get a new ignition switch and a new set of keys for free.
New keys are definitely not included with the P41 ignition switch recall. They replace the ignition switch and the lock cylinder assembly. If you schedule the appointment in advance, they order the lock cylinder keyed to your VIN, and I'm pretty sure it comes without a key (your key will continue to work). If you're a walk in, and the dealership has "unkeyed" lock cylinders in stock and a technician/"locksmith" qualified to "rekey" the lock, the "unkeyed" lock cylinders come with "service key" to pull the lock apart, and the technician resets the lock to match your keys. In some dealerships, the "locksmith" is actually working in the parts department, but the effect is the same, you get a lock matched to your existing keys.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was able to add the new key using the procedure in the owner's manual (also documented online, and there was a sheet with the new complete key with the same procedure on it). It worked for Sir after his ignition switch replacement for the recall. Sir doesn't read the Internet, though, so he just might not have known. Maybe the computers and scan tools at the $tealership didn't tell him he wasn't supposed to accept new keys after the recall.
My 06 has had all the recalls that apply including the new ignition set. My original plan was to buy an uncut key, have local locksmith cut it for me than do the DIY procedure in the manual. Then I saw an online web site that said the DIY procedure would not work after the recall. I understand that the DIY process will not work on the 10 model so I am guessing that the recall used the same setup as was produced in the 10.
I guess I can get an uncut key, have local locksmith cut it for me then try the DIY procedure. If that fails, I guess I will head to the dealer to get the key coded. I am trying to avoid the clone approach used my many locksmiths where they code the new key as a clone of an existing key. The XK will see a clone key as the same as the OEM key it was cloned from. If you only have one key to start with and you cloned it, you would have two matching keys thus the XK will treat them as the same key. That is a problem if you wanted to use one for driver 1 and the other for driver 2.
 

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New keys are definitely not included with the P41 ignition switch recall. They replace the ignition switch and the lock cylinder assembly. If you schedule the appointment in advance, they order the lock cylinder keyed to your VIN, and I'm pretty sure it comes without a key (your key will continue to work). If you're a walk in, and the dealership has "unkeyed" lock cylinders in stock and a technician/"locksmith" qualified to "rekey" the lock, the "unkeyed" lock cylinders come with "service key" to pull the lock apart, and the technician resets the lock to match your keys. In some dealerships, the "locksmith" is actually working in the parts department, but the effect is the same, you get a lock matched to your existing keys.
Yep, I believe I stand corrected.

I have a 2008, when I had my ignition switch recall done - I received a new set of Key FOBIKS.

But I'm fairly certain the 06 & 07 models didn't have Key FOBIKS which is what I was overlooking.
 

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I honestly don't remember if the transponder chip on these keys is on the metal part or in the remote electronics on the plastic head (I've done replacement key sets for at least 3 cars and trucks in the past year). If the chip was on the metal part, I would have "added" each key after using the old metal key's to activate the learn procedure, using the last two keys added to add the next.
Well, Sir must have known I was typing about this. Yesterday, I found out for sure, the transponder chip on these is in the electronics in the plastic remote. I found out because the plastic on the cheaper Amazon key broke at the base of the metal part of the key yesterday, where the two parts attach. The metal part is definitely only metal, and the transponder chip is definitely in the electronics on this one.

It's one of the other cars I did keys on last fall that has the chip in the metal part of the key.

I guess I'll find out Monday how good the warranty is on the cheaper key from Amazon.
 

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I paid $189.00 to get am 06 replacement key and have it programmed at a local locksmith. It was $250 at the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the cheaper Amazon key broke at the base of the metal part of the key yesterday, where the two parts attach.
This is an example of the "budget" keys I have seen. They are not a duplicate of the OEM key. I understand they break at the metal joint and also have very short battery life with no way to change battery. That means a trip to the dealer to get a replacement key programmed. Does not seem like a bargain to me.
 

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This is an example of the "budget" keys I have seen. They are not a duplicate of the OEM key. I understand they break at the metal joint and also have very short battery life with no way to change battery. That means a trip to the dealer to get a replacement key programmed. Does not seem like a bargain to me.
First, this "budget" key has a replaceable battery, and the one I have has a screw through the metal key itself. The metal is shaped a little different inside the plastic head of the key, and it is weaker than the stock key, but it's not a bad knock off really.

The replacement cases/blades are available, but with a "permanently attached" metal blade.

I may have a go at this one with some epoxy first. I think I can get it back together with a "permanent attachment" using epoxy.

The original, Genuine Jeep key is showing some stress cracks in the case as well. I really think the replacement parts from the ignition switch/lock recall are so much stiffer than the original parts that it stresses all the keys far more than they can really handle, even the original, "genuine Jeep" keys.
 
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