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How To: Ignition Switch Change

46K views 49 replies 22 participants last post by  jklightner 
#1 · (Edited)
The ignition switch on my 06 Hemi was acting up (Random issues with stalling, dash loosing all power and slow response from starter when key is turned). So since I was changing it figured I would do a quick write up here in case others want to tackle it. It is a pretty straight forward job.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.


This trim cover around the ignition switch needs to be removed.



Carefully pry the trim off with a trim removal tool. Or you can just grab it and pull it off like I did since I didn't have a trim removal tool and the little screw driver I was trying to use seemed to be damaging the plastic. Something wider would have been better (like a little putty knife).
Here is a photo of the trim removed so you know here the clips are located.



There are two T15 torx screws that need to me removed on the lower edge of the switch.



Now the front dash fascia needs to be removed in order to get to the last torx screw holding the ignition switch in. the dash fascia is held in with most of the socket head cap screws on the face of the dash. You only need to remove the ones in the photos but it will not hurt anything if you pull them all.




 
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#2 · (Edited)
After removing the screws you pull the fascia straight forward to release the spring clips holding it on.


The socket head screws that were removed from the dash fascia screw into metal clips that are inserted into the dash. I had a few that fell out in the removal process so make sure that you find them an reinsert the clips into their slots.


Note the slot on the left is missing a clip.


The dash was removed in order to access this torx screw that is in the top of the ignition. It does not need to be completely removed because it rides in a slot on the dash. Loosen it a couple of turns and the switch should be free.



Pop the lower knee panel down under the steering column.



Now remove the switch assembly out through the bottom. Be careful not to kink the cable and wiring.



Disconnect the wire connector from the ignition switch.
In the photo the red locking clip is first pushed to the left. Then the black push tab on the wiring connector is pushed and held down in order to pull it off the switch.


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#48 ·
After removing the screws you pull the fascia straight forward to release the spring clips holding it on.


The socket head screws that were removed from the dash fascia screw into metal clips that are inserted into the dash. I had a few that fell out in the removal process so make sure that you find them an reinsert the clips into their slots.


Note the slot on the left is missing a clip.


The dash was removed in order to access this torx screw that is in the top of the ignition. It does not need to be completely removed because it rides in a slot on the dash. Loosen it a couple of turns and the switch should be free.



Pop the lower knee panel down under the steering column.



Now remove the switch assembly out through the bottom. Be careful not to kink the cable and wiring.



Disconnect the wire connector from the ignition switch.
In the photo the red locking clip is first pushed to the left. Then the black push tab on the wiring connector is pushed and held down in order to pull it off the switch.


.
We had the same issue a couple years ago - turns out there is a Chrysler/Jeep recall on the ignition switch - our dealer advised us and it was replace free of charge.
 
#3 · (Edited)
The manual now says to remove the other cables and wiring but it seemed like there was enough space to work on it where it was so I didn't bother. Just be careful not to stress the cables to much when working on it.
Next remove the T10 torx screw from the switch (black one in photo).


Now the switch is held on by two plastic locking tabs. The tabs need to be pressed in simultaneously with two small screwdrivers before the switch can be pulled off. I did this myself but having a third hand would have made it much easier.




All apart. Now assembly is just the opposite. My switches were not in the same key position. Note the different orientation of the rectangular slots in the switches. When clipping the ignition switch back onto the housing, insert the key and turn it until it mates properly with the rectangular shaft of the housing. You will not be able to clip the switch back on until they line up correctly.



Getting the assembled ignition back into position was the tricky part of this job. It is a tight squeeze and you have to turn it just right but it does go up...eventually :) First make sure that the top torx screw is installed properly in its respective slot before tightening the front torx screws.



And that's it.
Hope it helps
 
#4 ·
Awesome ! Thanks !
 
#5 ·
Awesome guide, thanks for the post.
 
#6 ·
Good write up!!
 
#8 ·
Thanks. Hope it saves some people a few bucks in labour. It's really an easy job.
Just make sure you never change the location or delete these pics on whatever site you are hosting them on.
 
#10 ·
Nice job... Thanks !
 
#12 ·
Did this last night and only took about 20 min total. I found getting the ignition assembly back in to be the only thing relatively bothersome. If you rotate the ignition assembly to the left 90 degrees it should slide right out and then just reverse putting it in. Took me about 10 minutes just to get that right trhanks to the awkward electronics placement.
 
#15 ·
I too have been having intermittent dash light flickering. Very intermittent til about the last 6 mos. Its been happening more often, almost daily. Its become a huge distraction. I found an ignition switch at Autozone for $20, Duralast and $45 at Advance, Borg Warner. Bought the BW. Install took less than 1/2 hr. Did it yeaterday. Will keep posted.
 
#16 ·
Its been 11 days and the flickering dash lights have gone away... its nice to be able to get online info to resolve mechanical issues that would generally cost hundreds elsewhere. Thanks for the write up!
 
#20 ·
Is this fix someone of NO experience should attempt, or should I just eat the $$ (not at the dealer, they piss me off) at my mechanics? I have had nav system screen blank for about 2 months straight (after intermittent lighting) and I can't get the mode to change (from say, am/fm to CD). Now, my 06 Hemi won't start (for a few times, I could jiggle key in ignition and then it would start) at all, just that click.
 
#22 ·
No, it looks pretty simple to do, sure the pictures look a bit scary.

I'm NOT sure why he pulled the upper dash cover (the part with the air vents in it, that goes around the instrument cluster) it appears he didn't need to do that. He could have gotten it out just pulling the cover immediately around the ignition key hole and dropping the panel underneath to pull it out.

Of course, if you have never, ever taken anything apart in your whole life, never used a screw driver, who knows, you may NOT have any talent for it all and can't do this. But even a beginner that has taken a few things apart before, should be able to do this.
 
#25 ·
Theupper dash cover was removed in order to access a torx screw that is in the top of the ignition retaining it. The screw does not need to be completely removed because it rides in a slot on the dash.
Ah, the disadvantage of being the first one, you have to learn the lessons to teach the others. So you can get away without removing the upper dash? You might have mentioned that and I missed it, if so, sorry in advance.
 
#24 ·
Just a note, since there is so much confusion with the ignition switch recall.

The recall is NOT for this problem.

I have had to replace the ignition switch on my '91 Dodge Caravan and '95 Jeep Cherokee. They can fail just like any other part in the vehicle, and need to be replaced as normal wear and repair like any other part in the vehicle.

Of course it could cause stalling or failure to start the vehicle, just like many other parts in the vehicle. Its a matter of if there is an actual flaw in the design or manufacture of the switch, or it occurs often enough that it could only mean there has to be a flaw. So, if the electrical failure in the switch was so common it had to be a flaw, and arguably effects safety, you "might" have an argument. But, if less than 1% of the ignition switches suffer this problem, that could account for more than a few posts we see on this forum, and still NOT be common enough to mean its a flaw. And those suffering stalling from failed sensors, a flaw in the PCM, overdue spark plug changes, etc is definitely NOT a flaw that the recall is for.

Chrysler has acknowledge there is a flaw in some 2006-2007 ignition switches that will allow it to move to easily to the "Off" position so easily it results in accidentally shutting off the motor while driving, from minor forces. The recall says nothing about stalling, nothing about electrical failures in the switch, etc. The part of the switch that holds it in the position that you turn it is different than the parts in the switch that can fail and cause the problems the original poster is fixing his Commander for.

Ok sure, if you have this problem and you've also got a recall notice, maybe the part they replace will also replace the part you're having a problem with, maybe NOT. If your having a stalling your problem you need to properly diagnose it and fix it. According to the recall, it should be pretty obvious if the recall is your problem, cause you would be noticing your stalling is caused by the ignition switch unintended moving to the off position while your driving. If its NOT doing that, then the cause is for another reason other than the recall.

There is another recent thread about the number of coils in Commander engines. In that thread there are multiple people posting they are past due on changing their spark plugs by as much as three times over the recommended change interval. What do you think might be the problem in at least some of these stalling cases? Is it really a flaw that is the responsibility of Chrysler? Some may be, but definitely NOT all are the result of the flaw identified in the ignition switch in the recall.
 
#27 ·
Thanks everyone for the detailed write up. I have symptoms this week and was able to putprchase the part locally using an online coupon for $32. It is easier to remove the harness before removing the entire assembly. It did I take some creativity to wedge the ignition out of the area. Thanks everyone for saving me a few hundred dollars and 3 days of downtime.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Looks different under the knee pad

My 4.7 L 2006 base model had a plastic trim secured with security torx screws preventing access to remove the switch. I thought I was stumped but then an Internet searched showed how to use a small flat head screwdriver to remove the security torx screws and everything else worked fine. Flashing dashboard lights and blower fan have not returned so far........thank you Eric S for a really clear and detailed post.
 
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