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SO I like LED taillights, not just cause they help improve safty but they look awesome, however I do not feel fond of those available, so I decided to make my own. I have got them on and ready to share with you how to do them yourself, and it only cost around $100

Here is what you need tool wise:
Flathead screw driver
wire strippers/crimpers
Scotch Lock pliers or regular pliers
Dremel
cut off wheels

Parts
Napa Trucklite 4051 (x4)

Trucklight harness 94993 (x4)
RadioShack 50ohm 10w resistors 271-0133 (1 pack of 2)
5 min Epoxy
clear adhesive sealant
3wire scotch locks
spare wire 16-18 AWG
electrical tape
your taillights

**This project takes a good 2 or 3 days to do right(depending on temperatures in your area) so be ready or have a back up set of taillights to use.

Ok so on to the fun part.
Start by removing the taillights with the flathead screwdriver, the clips inside the hatch are what hold them in. gently pull the lights off, if need be use the flathead to seperate the pop joints from the body on the outside edge.

remove the wireharness and lay the lights on a bench or floor on a blanket or towel to prevent scratching the lense.

Fill the taillight houseing with paper or towels to keep the dust bits to a minimum( static electricity in the lights will make it hard to get it all out otherwise.)

Useing the dremel and a cutoff wheel, cut along the top edge of the light housing dome. turn the light upside down and clean out the plastic bits and rough cut areas.

Now turn them over and start on the inside of the housing. NOTE: there are raised ridges in there that you can use as a guide. Cut using the dremel as close to the end of them as you can and keep it level. this will help to seal and epoxy the lights in.

once your finished turn the light over and agin clean off the loose bits of plastic that didnt fully come off. Now take the Trucklite and make a quick test fit. It should look like this >


Repeat again for the other lamp.

Now for the tricky part, I took a small dab of clear adhesive to set the LED lamps. just enough to prevent moving but not too much that it squshes into the lamp housing. once this is done epoxy the area where the trucklite and housing are close together, about 2/3. once that sets and cures for 4 hours take the clear adhesive sealant and go over the epoxy and the rest of the lamp, you will need your finger or a small stick to apply along the flat areas on the houseing as you cant get a good angle with the sealant tube.



The sealant I used dried clear.
While this cures for 24hrs you can make the wire harness.

NOTE: Leave enough room at the bulb sockets to repair back to stock if you ever decide to go back(doubtful but im just saying)

The wires on my 06 were as follows
Black(b) = ground
Red(r) = 12+ reverse
Green/Yellow(g/y) = Stop light
Green/White(g/w) = Park/run lights
Green(g) = turn signal

the trucklite wires are as follows
White(w) = ground
Black(b) = run lights
Red(r) = Stop/Turn

The upper LED is the stop light the lower LED is the turnsignal. if you choose you can always make the top turn and bottom stop to make it that much more different.

Ok so heres the fun part.

I used scotchlocks as they have water sealant in them, if you do not want them you can always solder or use crimp connectors to make the connections. Here is a picture of a 3wire scotch lock.

to start trim off the bulb sockets again leaving room for repairs. Make sure you dont cut the running light off from the outside small side maker bulb.

once you have the harness trimmed its time to mate the harness to the trucklite harness.

Take both of the white trucklite harness wires snip off the eyelit connector and with a small piece of spare wire, crimp all three together with a 3wire scotch lock. Next crimp the spare wire to the black wire of your harness. This completes the ground circuit.

Next in the middle of the turnsignal white wire cut it and with a 3wire scotch lock crimp in one leg of the 50ohm resistor to both sections(they don't have polarity so any leg is fine)

Next take the red wire and crimp it to the green wire of the stock harness. Again in the middle of the red trucklite harness cut it and splice the two parts with the other leg of the 50ohm resistor with a scotch lock. The resistor acts as a load generator to mimick the standard incandesant bulb, preventing the need for a new flasher relay(which I could never find under the dash). Im not sure if you just replace the flasher relay if you then would not need the resistor. so to be safe just use the resistor and forget about the realy.

>>>**YOU WILL NEED THIS OR YOUR TURNSIGNALS WILL ILLUMINATE FOR 30 SECONDS WHEN YOU OPEN A DOOR, UNLOCK OR LOCK YOUR VEHICLE. AND WHEN THE KEY IS ON THEY WILL NOT FLASH!***<<<

This completes the turnsignal circuit.

Next splice both of the trucklight harness black wires to the green/white wire on your harness. This completes the running light circuit.

On the Stop light LED trucklite harness splice the red to the green/yellow of your harness.

This completes the stop light circuit.

If you havn't already done so, now you can do the same to the other taillight. If you have done the other taillight grab your electrical tape and tape over the scotch locks and resister legs, making sure you tape the legs to one of the wires for stability.

YOUR DONE!!!! Go outside reinstall the taillights and turn them on. They will now function just like your factory taillights but they will be brighter, faster responding and look amazingly better. Enjoy!





I will post up daytime pictures soon.

~Gold
 

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That is really cool, thank you for posting a how to on this!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your totally welcome. I just got tired of reaing about how the ones made by other companies have PC board LEDs that burn out fast. This seems like a much more reliable way to do it and its a very simple task to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Day time shots





 

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Very nice, think I will try it on mine. What size are the LED lights? Probably the 4 inch? Did you get the red or white? Is there plenty of room in the housing or do I need to be concerned about thickness of the LED assembly?
I will probably buy LEDs from another supplier ($19.95 Ea) and possibly rig up a mounting ring so replacemant can be done later.
 

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Glad to see you used my taillights for a nice project. Great writeup.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Rblapham, they are red led clear cover(for show trucks etc). I can get them at napa for 16.99 if you look at the pictures you will see how much room you have. Anything larger than 4.35 inches will be tricky to fit they are standard rig lights the lamp area is 4" the overall width is 4.35". Good luck with a mounting ring, unless you mount them further back then how I cut mine you will not have room. otherwise that ring on the inside like the one around the headlights would have to go. Plus if you mount them too far back you may not get good light propagation on the sides for side reflection in the housing. Again referance the pictures, you can see what you are up against. There is a good amount of depth in there which you will see once you pop a light out.

Ripthesix...glad you like what I did with them. Glad you had a set I could buy. :)
 

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Looks sweet! good job
 
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