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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a 2006 Hemi Commander QDII with a "bad" engine. I'm in the process of trying to pull the engine, have everything off the top and front except the main pulley. Starter removed and 1 bolt out of the torque converter. I can't rotate the engine to get to the rest of the converter bolts.

There was coolant in the combustion chambers and oil I'm assuming for a few months. I've sprayed PB Blaster and Seafoam Deep Creep into the cylinders but it still won't budge. I then poured Marvel Mystery Oil in each of the cylinders. I did notice the penetrant oil is draining through the engine and out the oil drain plug.

I'm out of town for the week but am open to any ideas to try when I'm home this weekend.

Thanks.


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Bought a motorcycle once that had seized pistons. Ended up using the 2" dowel and a 5lb dead blow hammer. Knocked hard on each piston in succession a few times. That was only a 750cc four cylinder though.
 

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Bought a motorcycle once that had seized pistons. Ended up using the 2" dowel and a 5lb dead blow hammer. Knocked hard on each piston in succession a few times. That was only a 750cc four cylinder though.
Not a bad idea...I doubt you'd get the crank to turn by banging on 1 piston at a time, but at least knocking each one really good might free them up enough to the turn the crank.

SevenJays - I'm assuming you're trying to turn the crank via the main front pulley? Get a bigger break-over bar? :grin2: Have you pulled the heads? getting the extra force of the valve train off the cam, and through that to the crank might help. It'd also give you better access to the pistons for beating on them. At the very least maybe pull the valve covers and take off the rocker arms, this will take the pressure off the pushrods and lifters.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bought a motorcycle once that had seized pistons. Ended up using the 2" dowel and a 5lb dead blow hammer. Knocked hard on each piston in succession a few times. That was only a 750cc four cylinder though.


I’ll have to try that.


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Discussion Starter #5
Not a bad idea...I doubt you'd get the crank to turn by banging on 1 piston at a time, but at least knocking each one really good might free them up enough to the turn the crank.



SevenJays - I'm assuming you're trying to turn the crank via the main front pulley? Get a bigger break-over bar? :grin2: Have you pulled the heads? getting the extra force of the valve train off the cam, and through that to the crank might help. It'd also give you better access to the pistons for beating on them. At the very least maybe pull the valve covers and take off the rocker arms, this will take the pressure off the pushrods and lifters.


Yes, I’m thinking I may have to pull the heads or maybe the oil pan and rod caps.

I’m also wondering how much damage I’ll do pulling the engine with the torque converter and working on the engine stand. This is my first engine change with an automatic transmission.


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Pulling the heads will allow one to look at the cylinder walls for major corrosion damage. Lots of crud/rust could be a problem. If you have this issue, some pistons might not be able to go upwards.
 

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Yes, I’m thinking I may have to pull the heads or maybe the oil pan and rod caps.

I’m also wondering how much damage I’ll do pulling the engine with the torque converter and working on the engine stand. This is my first engine change with an automatic transmission.


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You would be wise to contact a good transmission shop about this. One of the best in my area always gives me phone help.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You would be wise to contact a good transmission shop about this. One of the best in my area always gives me phone help.


Good point. I'll do that. Thanks.


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Discussion Starter #9
I talked to ProEngines who I'm getting the engine from and they said I shouldn't have a problem pulling it with the torque converter. Then just replace the seal on torque converter and reinstall it on the transmission.

I'll update on how it goes.


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Discussion Starter #10
Got the engine out with the torque converter attached. Contrary to many opinions, I didn't lose any fluid out of the converter. I'm not sure what to think about that. But at any rate the engine is out and the torque converter removed. I'm going to pick up a new seal and reinstall the torque converter on the transmission.

Then press on with the engine change.





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Discussion Starter #11
I think I scraped the splines a little during the removal. I'm not sure if you can see it in the picture.


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Discussion Starter #12
So I finally got the reman engine installed and running. Ended up with almost all the sensors replaced, new catalytic converters, new throttle body, new dorman intake, new radiator, new starter, new water pump, new battery, new headlights, new fog lights, 2” Rough Country lift, 1.25” ECCP spacers, Pirelli Scorpion AT+ 265/70R17 tires and a TrIl Dash 2.
Next up is service the entire drive train with AMSOIL products that just arrived today. Also changed the RH front half shaft and need to change that wheel speed sensor as well.
The nag radio is blank but does turn on. Stuck on AM with only what is in the preselects as station options. I think I’m going Pioneer MVH1400 NEX with the Idatalink as a replacement.
I’ll basically have a better than new Commander at that point! I have to total it up again but I’m at about $7,000 at this point.



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So I finally got the reman engine installed and running. Ended up with almost all the sensors replaced, new catalytic converters, new throttle body, new dorman intake, new radiator, new starter, new water pump, new battery, new headlights, new fog lights, 2” Rough Country lift, 1.25” ECCP spacers, Pirelli Scorpion AT+ 265/70R17 tires and a TrIl Dash 2.
Next up is service the entire drive train with AMSOIL products that just arrived today. Also changed the RH front half shaft and need to change that wheel speed sensor as well.
The nag radio is blank but does turn on. Stuck on AM with only what is in the preselects as station options. I think I’m going Pioneer MVH1400 NEX with the Idatalink as a replacement.
I’ll basically have a better than new Commander at that point! I have to total it up again but I’m at about $7,000 at this point.

Congrats on getting her all back together & running again @Sevenjays, that sounds like it was a monumental task;

But, you essentially have a brand new SUV for $7,000; How can you beat that??

Thanks for sharing the information - and the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Torque converter FTW. !

Good job, and Good luck !

How bad is access to the upper trans housing bolts?


They are a pain, but with the intake off you can get to them. A stubby gear wrench helps a lot. I also had the hood off and pulled the wiring harness up as much as I could.


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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, wasnt sure if it was any easier attacking from above or below.


I don't think I could have reached the top ones from below. The drivers side center bolt took a couple of extensions with a universal in the middle and a swival socket. Did that from below.

I got faster after a few times!


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