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hey guys! is there an easy way to remove those black pins in the wheel well?i want to change the plastic wheel well because the door to access the fog lamps and side marker on the driver side is missing at 40$ and winter comming and the hid ballast for the fogs in there i want the door in place hehe!
 

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hey guys! is there an easy way to remove those black pins in the wheel well?i want to change the plastic wheel well because the door to access the fog lamps and side marker on the driver side is missing at 40$ and winter comming and the hid ballast for the fogs in there i want the door in place hehe!
If you mean the black pins holding the inner plastic fender well to the outer fender flare, they are actually plastic rivets and cost about $5 each. Two of mine on the right front fender were not hooked together correctly. Since I recently had unrelated body work on that side, my dealer's body shop fixed it for free. So, you would need a rivet gun (I do not know if it would be a standard gun, or a special one for these rivets) and as many replacement rivets you destroy getting them off. :eek:rangehat:
 

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Are you talking about the rivets that hold the inner fender to the front facia?

I would drill them out and replace them. But I would use replaceable type
of rivets similar to the ones on the rear facia. That way you can remove
them again if necessary and they are easier to work with. More importantly
less expensive. NAPA has them in different sizes.

You could buy the rivets and rivet gun to replace them or go to the dealer
to let them reinstall the rivets.

Last, you can manipulate the rivet with pliers. Place the rivet in the hole,
hold it flat and pull the pin out. I was not successful doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok good thx for the info! i tought these were push pins or something but plastic rivets! wow! that sucks! they never tell u when u buy at the dealers or jobber you always get stuck because they donno sh$t about the cars lol! and now to find a replacement or go back to the dealer for the original rivets!
 

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Or you can just fab a new little door for the opening out of some medium/heavy rubber/plastic. I know that sounds rudimentary, but it's the best way to describe what I did to fix mine. Got all my parts from ACE Hardware for about $6 total for both sides. Will try to snap a picture of the set-up later today and post it sometime tonight.
 

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$40 dollars to replace something that is just going to break again is not worth it. I would spend 40 on trying to make it better then what it was.My motto is not only fix what is broken but upgrade it. At the present time both sides on mine are broken.
 

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A real cheap fix is to clean the fender line and then cover the door hole with black heavy duty duct tape.

If you want to remove the rivits, use a door trim fastener tool. You slip it under the rivit head then pry it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I like this idea....
yes pics please! ive already bought the new one so im gonna need rivets but it would be nice to have another option even cheaper and stronger too!
 

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If you mean the black pins holding the inner plastic fender well to the outer fender flare, they are actually plastic rivets and cost about $5 each. Two of mine on the right front fender were not hooked together correctly. Since I recently had unrelated body work on that side, my dealer's body shop fixed it for free. So, you would need a rivet gun (I do not know if it would be a standard gun, or a special one for these rivets) and as many replacement rivets you destroy getting them off. :eek:rangehat:
You guys need NAPA's plastic riviets part #770-2871 - it's a twenty piece pack for $5. I know the site says "Unit: Each" but trust me (I've bought 3 boxes in the last 6 months) each "Unit" is twenty pieces. you should also get the plastic rivet setter (NAPA part # 770-2864) it runs just shy of $20. I've re-mounted my fender wells at least three times - the last being this weekend to gain access to replace my starter.
 

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You guys need NAPA's plastic riviets part #770-2871 - it's a twenty piece pack for $5. I know the site says "Unit: Each" but trust me (I've bought 3 boxes in the last 6 months) each "Unit" is twenty pieces. you should also get the plastic rivet setter (NAPA part # 770-2864) it runs just shy of $20. I've re-mounted my fender wells at least three times - the last being this weekend to gain access to replace my starter.
thanks for that info. but why 3 times, other than your starter....
 

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thanks for that info. but why 3 times, other than your starter....
let's see...once for beatin' down the pinch weld (for 265/70/17's), once to throw in some sound-deadening (for the "enhanced" sound from the AT's), and I think I actually pulled the passenger side again when I had to replace my half-shaft (due to the rip in my boot created when installing my RC 2")
 

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let's see...once for beatin' down the pinch weld (for 265/70/17's), once to throw in some sound-deadening (for "enhanced" sound from the AT's), and I think I actually pulled the passenger side again when I had to replace my half-shaft (due to the rip in my boot created when installing my RC 2")
More info on the sound-deadening please.
 

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More info on the sound-deadening please.
don't want to hi-jack this thread (and i'm headed out the door for holiday driving) so i'll list quick what i've started then work another thread when i return.

1. From jegs.com part#70510 - up and along the pinch weld/back (pass. compartment side) and under the top of the wheel well - where that piece-o-crap trash-bag filled with insulation is.
2. 2 coats of 3M's Underseal Rubberized Undercoating - but only on the backside wher the pinch weld is - didn't feel like dealing w/the over-spray issues at the time.
3. whilst having the fender wells removed for this, added 3 coats of some generic (read "cheaper") rubberized undercoat on the side that faces the tires.
4. and last but not least, the part that IMO killed the most noise, Dynamat part # 11905 - Hoodliner.

this was all done in one afternoon. the reduction in noise from the AT's was quite nice - it did have the negative effect of muffling my 4" intake though...: (
 
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...2 coats of 3M's Underseal Rubberized Undercoating - but only on the backside wher the pinch weld is - didn't feel like dealing w/the over-spray issues at the time...

...added 3 coats of some generic (read "cheaper") rubberized undercoat on the side that faces the tires...
I had to patch up the floor of '95 Jeep Cherokee 2WD, that I fixed up for my daughter.

Like you're eluding too, there are drastic differences in the quality of undercoating and it usually falls along price. The "3M Underseal Rubberized Undercoating" is awesome, while $2 no name brands, that do NOT have the word "Rubberized" in them, are so horrible you would NOT want to even use them on the underside of your vehicle. You can tell, moisture and dirt is going to work its way into and under the coat and let rust start.

The 3M, coats evenly and thinly, with full coverage, you can count on it sealing and protecting. Thin, as in much thinner than a lot of undercoatings, its still a fairly think rubberized coat. Although its expensive.

The drastically cheapper stuff, will run, drip, bubble and leave gaps, if its NOT rubberized enough it will eventually crack and fall off.

Good strategy though, use the good stuff to get a good protective coat with full coverage, that will last, then use the cheap stuff to build up some thickness and improve sound deadening.

Don't get anything that is NOT rubberized, if you're going to try to the $2 a can generic, then do a test spray on other metal before trying it on your vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You guys need NAPA's plastic riviets part #770-2871 - it's a twenty piece pack for $5. I know the site says "Unit: Each" but trust me (I've bought 3 boxes in the last 6 months) each "Unit" is twenty pieces. you should also get the plastic rivet setter (NAPA part # 770-2864) it runs just shy of $20. I've re-mounted my fender wells at least three times - the last being this weekend to gain access to replace my starter.

thanks for the info but for canadians it seems that they dont use the same part numbers.i have the rivets so ill go see a freind that has a body shop hes got one so for now ill be ok i guess!

thanks again guys!!:)
 

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I know this is an ancient post but I failed to find another more recent. This is my experience with the rivets that retain the inner front fender. I needed to replace the antenna base and failed fog lamps on my new purchase.
I used a pin punch and hammer to push the center pin back where it came from and they just pop out. Used a trim tool to remove the flanged part and the two near the engine. I used the push-pin type in one of the many kits that I have to replace the fender after the repairs.
 
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