Jeep Commander Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I still have my Drive and Play that was installed in my last car. Now I want to install it into the Commander. I cannot believe for the life of me that over the past 4 years this site has been around that not a single Drive and Play thread has been posted. SO, I'm starting this one hoping other people have installed it already.

There are 3 wires, Ignition, Ground, and Battery, that I need hardwired somehow. The ignition turns it off when the car is turned off, but I also want the battery wire to turn off when the car turns off. I don't want the battery charging my ipod 24 hours a day (I think that's what happens with this thing)

Any ideas for the wiring or has anyone installed one before? Where'd you put the control box, display, and control knob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Bump! Still trying to figure out which wires to hook up to this unit. I was hoping to install it Sunday but might not be able to if I don't get any info before then. Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,559 Posts
Not sure anyone here has used this product on their Commander.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'd be really surprised if that was the case but I guess all I would need then are those 3 wires. When I had it in my car I had the power coming off a cigarette lighter but that would charge the iPod 24 hours. Ignition and ground are a little easier but I'd like to get any specific recommendations before ripping things apart. Guess the easiest spot would be to shove everything behind the dash or navigation somewhere and then have the ipod in the glove box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,262 Posts
I'd be really surprised if that was the case but I guess all I would need then are those 3 wires. When I had it in my car I had the power coming off a cigarette lighter but that would charge the iPod 24 hours. Ignition and ground are a little easier but I'd like to get any specific recommendations before ripping things apart. Guess the easiest spot would be to shove everything behind the dash or navigation somewhere and then have the ipod in the glove box.
Left cig lighter outlet is only powered when the key is on.
Is that going to help you at all?

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Left cig lighter outlet is only powered when the key is on.
Is that going to help you at all?

Rob
Until you posted this I didn't even think to go out and test this out to begin with. Since there's 2 outlets I don't mind sacrificing the wires from one of them for the ipod. That will provide battery and ground, now I wonder about the Ignition wire. I would think that if the battery turns on and off with the key I wouldn't even need an ignition wire. I'm gonna have to find and read the Drive and Play install manual to see if I even need it.

Thanks Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Nope, not working. I thought I could hook up the battery and ground and leave the ignition wire not connected. The drive and play turns on for a few seconds then turns off. I remember this happened in my last car and I do need to use the ignition wire. It's supposed to be hooked up to a 10a power source that signals the unit that it is on. It's supposed to be connected to the Ignition Switch's ACC terminal. I THOUGHT I could connect it to the purple/brown wire that's in the ignition switch but that leads to the same problem of it powering off after a few seconds. So I still need this ignition wire hooked up somewhere. Should be the same "signal" wire that hooks up to amplifiers to tell the amp that the car is turned on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Get out a multimeter and test the ignition wires. Sounds to me like your just looking for a switched 12v.

Here is the wiring layout I used to install my auto start.

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - JEEP / COMMANDER / 2006 / Security


[PRINT THIS PAGE]


12volts lt. blue/red (20A) + ignition harness
Starter pink/orange + ignition harness
Ignition pink/lt. green + ignition harness
Power Lock purple/dk. green - driver door module in door
Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 100 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

Can also use the trigger wires for the door lock relays found at the instrument cluster, conn. 2. Lock is lt. green/dk. green in pin 5. Driver door unlock is tan/lt. green in pin 6. Passenger door unlock is purple/lt. green in pin 7.
Power Unlock same as power lock wire
Lock Motor lt. green/lt. blue 5wi plug above fuses, pin 36
Unlock Motor lt. green/dk. green 5wi plug above fuses, pin 35
Disarm Defeat lt. green/tan 5wi plug above fuses, pin 34
Parking Lights+ do not use, relay rests at gnd
Parking Lights- (CAN data bus)
Hazards white/dk. blue to white/tan - SCM, 16 pin plug, pin 16
Notes: The SCM (Steering Column Module) is in the steering column.
Turn Signal(L) use hazards wire
Turn Signal(R) use hazards wire
Door Trigger see notes - each kick or cluster, conn. 3
Notes: The LF door is purple in pin 6. The RF door is purple/white in pin 7. The LR door is purple/gray in pin 4. The RR door is purple/yellow in pin 5. Use all four wires and diode isolate each wire from each other and the control module. Refer to DirectFax 1076 for wiring information.


Dome Supervision yellow/orange - any light or cluster, conn 2, pin 12
Trunk/Hatch Pin pur/org and pur/brn (glass) - DKP or cluster, conn. 3, pins 3, 2
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release orange/purple - DKP or cluster, conn. 3, pin 8
Notes: Meter this wire while opening the rear glass from the switch on the rear hatch.

The hatch release motor wire is orange/gray (5wi) at the plug above the fuses, pin 25.
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm factory remote only
Factory Alarm Disarm factory remote only
Disarm No Unlock with ignition and Sentry Key
Tachometer NOT red/tan or dk. grn/lt. grn ac any ignition coil or fuel injector
Horn Trigger dk. green/orange + horn or IPM, conn. 2, pin 35
Notes: The IPM (Integrated Power Module) is on the driver fender, behind the battery.
Memory Seat 1 lt. green/orange - driver door module in door
Notes: The memory seats are negative trigger thru resistors. The resistor values are not known at this time. Cut the wire and meter it while pressing the memory seat buttons.
Memory Seat 2 same as memory seat 1 wire -
Memory Seat 3 N/A -
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
Sentry Key
Part #: 556CW
Alternate Part1 #: 556UW
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models.
Interface Module: Category:
Door Lock Interface Required:
Yes Type:
Multiplex
Part #: 456LW
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Availab


Being this is a Chrysler product, they use the multiplex system so your most likely going to have to look elsewhere for your switched 12v then at the ignition. Get that multimeter out and test away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Get out a multimeter and test the ignition wires. Sounds to me like your just looking for a switched 12v.

Here is the wiring layout I used to install my auto start.

12volts lt. blue/red (20A) + ignition harness
Starter pink/orange + ignition harness
Ignition pink/lt. green + ignition harness
Power Lock purple/dk. green - driver door module in door


Being this is a Chrysler product, they use the multiplex system so your most likely going to have to look elsewhere for your switched 12v then at the ignition. Get that multimeter out and test away.
Oh boy. Looks like the purple/dr green is the one I thought was the ignition wire. I'll try using the pink/lt green for ignition and seeing what happens. I think a switched 12v is not working. I hooked up this Ignition wire to the switched outlet's 12v wire and that didn't work to keep the unit powered on. Man this garbage is a nightmare. Especially when they do not have vehicle specific instructions.

Thanks for the wiring info though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Pink/lt green is the multiplex wiring, you will not get a switched 12v off this wire. You will have to get it from somewhere else besides the ignition. Multiplex is nothing like the standard wiring used in cars for the past decades.

Most vehicles have an orange accessory wire from the ignition that is a switched 12v but these do not. Multiplex does not use an accessory wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
I hooked up the 12v Battery wire to the constant right side outlet and tried the Ignition wire in both the outlet's power wires and the same exact thing is happening. Still can't get this bad boy to stay powered on for more than a few seconds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
I tried hooking up the Ignition ACC wire to the pink/lt green wire in the igntion switch and that didn't work either. I know you said it shouldn't work but another site said it might so I took a stab at it.

The weird thing is that there is a cigarette outlet power option that turns the unit on and off. I threw it away years ago because I assumed I was always going to have it hardwired. So how on earth does this outlet adapter work and why can't I get it to work with the 3 wires on their own? Shouldn't it work the same way as the cig adapter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
have you tested to see if your gadget is working properly in a power source you know will operate it?
It was working fine in my last car a few weeks ago. I don't have the car anymore to test it again but disconnecting 3 wires shouldn't have caused any problems. Good idea though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Try hooking the constant 12v and switched ignition 12v together on a known 12v source, then ground your ground wire and see if it works. If it doesnt work then its the drive and play thats not working. If it works it just a matter of connecting it up properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Try hooking the constant 12v and switched ignition 12v together on a known 12v source, then ground your ground wire and see if it works. If it doesnt work then its the drive and play thats not working. If it works it just a matter of connecting it up properly.
Hmm, the multimeter reads 12.1 volts from my constant powered right cig lighter. I hooked up both the 12v and ignition switched wires to the constant power and the ground to the ground. Still no go. The unit powers on for a few seconds then shuts off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I haven't checked the fuse yet but even though the unit turns on then off my iPod will continue to be charged and the "Ok to Disconnect" message stays on the iPod like it's supposed to. So I assumed the fuse, 12v battery, and ground wires were all good. I think it's just this Ignition Switch ACC wire that's not receiving the proper signal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
From the drive and play instructions, the only signal the acc wire needs is a 12v source. Only reason it is ran to the ignition is so it turns off when the car is turned off. You could wire it to a constant 12v and it should work. run a switch on it and its the same thing but manual on and off. Its not like its requiring a 5v signal or anything out of the normal. 12v to it is it. Something tells me there is a problem with the drive and play or how its being hooked up.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top