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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody, i have a 2006 commander with the factory nav. i took it out a few years ago and put in a clarion navi. i bought the c2R-CHY4 and had it wired up and it worked perfectly for 2 years. now i decided to get a new head unit and bought the pioneer AVH-X5600BHS. I took the old unit out and sold it and wired my new pioneer up as per the directions and matching wires but the unit wont Work. There is absolutely no power going to the head unit. no lights no sounds ,....nothing.
I checkd and i had a fuse blown so i replaced it and still nothing. Then i noticed that the red light inside the pac was only on when the vehicle ignition was set to off. once i turned the key the power to the C2r unit went off. did i wire something incorrectly?

I am assuming that is why there is no power. does anybody know how to fix this or is there some mistake that i am making.? Please help me out. i'm ridin tuneless and my car looks stolen. my dash has been off for over a week while im figuring this out..

I would really appreciate your help.
 

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I don't know what the problem is; but I will tell you my experience and what I've learned and that might help you.

IOD=Ignition Off Draw, i.e. its the power source for everything in the vehicle that needs constant voltage to keep its stored memory alive or operate while the vehicle is off, to include the always on source for the radio to keep its presets stored.

The IOD fuse under the hood, is incorrectly labeled by the fuse box lid, stating it is a spare. It is NOT a spare, it is the IOD fuses, and it is even more confusing becuase the IOD and AirBag fuses have funky plastic handles on them to make the easy to pull out. That is because there are many maintenance/repair procedures that require you to pull those fuses before starting work, thus a plastic handle to make it easier. If you didn't know that, you'd think the funky handle is just a conveineint holder for the spare fuses that Chrysler provided you. When I had fuses blow, I pulled the IOD fuses thinking they were spares; soon as I did that, my aftermarket pioneer radio stopped working, totally dead. I also got a message in the EVIC stating "IOD Fuse Out".

When I got new fuses and replaced the IOD fuse, things still didn't work completly right, went back and realized the funky handles for those fuses, made it difficult to fully seat the fuses, press it down harder and found the fuses moved in another 3/8" until they fully seated and everything went back to working like normal.

The best I can tell, since the Commander and a lot of newer cars have this feature where the radio continues to run after you remove the key, until you open the door or till you reach a certain time limit you can set in the vehicle options; to do this, they have changed the scheme of powering the radio.

In the past, you had the main power to the radio switched on and off by a 12VDC ignition switched source, then you had a small low power wire that was always on 12VDC to power the radio memory and keep your presets, etc. This scheme, the radio will always die when you remove the key because its power source is switched off, so this will never work if want the radio to continue to run after removing the key.

So, the Commander and other newer cars swap the 12VDC power wires, the always on 12VDC wire is much bigger and supplies the main power to run the radio, the 12VDC ignition switched wire is much smaller and all it does is tell the radio to turn on when the wire engergizes, the CAN bus tells the radio to turn off and it does when it sees a door open or the timer counts down to the time that was set in the vehicle options.

I do NOT know this for a fact, it just appears that way looking at the wires and envisioning how this would work.

I connected all my wires for my Pioneer AVH-8500 and RP4-CH11 according to the instructions and it worked just fine. I got what you got, a totally dead radio, when I pulled that IOD fuse, and it went back to working just fine when I finally seated the new fuse properly in the IOD slot.

So, if you haven't checked that IOD fuse, I would do that.

If that don't work, I would check if you have the always on 12VDC wire connected correctly. The radio will NOT run without the power from that wire, I suspect if that wire is NOT connected properly and providing power to the radio, the 12VDC ignition switch source would blow its fuse -OR- the new radio is smart enough to know which scheme it is wired into and change to newer power scheme, i.e. the ignition switch source is just a signal to turn on, draw all the power off the always on source, and if there is NOT power available from the always on source, it can't turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't know what the problem is; but I will tell you my experience and what I've learned and that might help you.

IOD=Ignition Off Draw, i.e. its the power source for everything in the vehicle that needs constant voltage to keep its stored memory alive or operate while the vehicle is off, to include the always on source for the radio to keep its presets stored.

The IOD fuse under the hood, is incorrectly labeled by the fuse box lid, stating it is a spare. It is NOT a spare, it is the IOD fuses, and it is even more confusing becuase the IOD and AirBag fuses have funky plastic handles on them to make the easy to pull out. That is because there are many maintenance/repair procedures that require you to pull those fuses before starting work, thus a plastic handle to make it easier. If you didn't know that, you'd think the funky handle is just a conveineint holder for the spare fuses that Chrysler provided you. When I had fuses blow, I pulled the IOD fuses thinking they were spares; soon as I did that, my aftermarket pioneer radio stopped working, totally dead. I also got a message in the EVIC stating "IOD Fuse Out".

When I got new fuses and replaced the IOD fuse, things still didn't work completly right, went back and realized the funky handles for those fuses, made it difficult to fully seat the fuses, press it down harder and found the fuses moved in another 3/8" until they fully seated and everything went back to working like normal.

The best I can tell, since the Commander and a lot of newer cars have this feature where the radio continues to run after you remove the key, until you open the door or till you reach a certain time limit you can set in the vehicle options; to do this, they have changed the scheme of powering the radio.

In the past, you had the main power to the radio switched on and off by a 12VDC ignition switched source, then you had a small low power wire that was always on 12VDC to power the radio memory and keep your presets, etc. This scheme, the radio will always die when you remove the key because its power source is switched off, so this will never work if want the radio to continue to run after removing the key.

So, the Commander and other newer cars swap the 12VDC power wires, the always on 12VDC wire is much bigger and supplies the main power to run the radio, the 12VDC ignition switched wire is much smaller and all it does is tell the radio to turn on when the wire engergizes, the CAN bus tells the radio to turn off and it does when it sees a door open or the timer counts down to the time that was set in the vehicle options.

I do NOT know this for a fact, it just appears that way looking at the wires and envisioning how this would work.

I connected all my wires for my Pioneer AVH-8500 and RP4-CH11 according to the instructions and it worked just fine. I got what you got, a totally dead radio, when I pulled that IOD fuse, and it went back to working just fine when I finally seated the new fuse properly in the IOD slot.

So, if you haven't checked that IOD fuse, I would do that.

If that don't work, I would check if you have the always on 12VDC wire connected correctly. The radio will NOT run without the power from that wire, I suspect if that wire is NOT connected properly and providing power to the radio, the 12VDC ignition switch source would blow its fuse -OR- the new radio is smart enough to know which scheme it is wired into and change to newer power scheme, i.e. the ignition switch source is just a signal to turn on, draw all the power off the always on source, and if there is NOT power available from the always on source, it can't turn on.
Thank you so much. i pulled those both out and no luck. i contacted pac about it and the rep told me to disconnect the blue wire brom the blue white ones. i'm about to go outside and do it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
still no good. my fuses are replaced and new and the headunit still doesnt even respond

the pac has its light on when the ignition is off, but as soon as i turn the key, the light goes out. I believe this is the real culprit. has anyboody had this problem?
 

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Have you've checked for stored codes in the vehicle? Do you have "u" codes, i.e. communications on the CAN network codes?

You have double checked that you have configured the PAC unit correctly? That the little turn wheel is turned to the right number for a Pioneer Radio, its hard to read and you may it pointed the opposite direction of the tiny arrow molded in the slot. I don't know anything about theC2r-CHY4, I have the RP4-CH11 that has this configuration switch that you turn with a small screwdriver.

In the EVIC menu you can set how long the radio will continue to play after turning the ignition off. The radio should turn off when you open the door.

So your PAC unit should be on with the ignition off if the vehicle is in the mode to play the radio with the ignition off. As soon as you open the door, or wait the set time set in the EVIC Menu, the PAC unit should turn off.

If PAC unit is powering on opposite of what it should, I would suspect you've got some wire crossed and need to check it again. Use a multi-meter, check if the IOD 12VDC wire has 12VDC regardless of the igntion switch position and wether the delayed radio turn off feature is active or NOT. Check the ignition switched 12VDC power source switches on and off with the ignition.

These PAC units seem sensative and seem to fail easily. I took my Pioneer radio out to add an XM radio unit, after putting it all back, my RP4-CH11 stopped responding to steering wheel buttons correctly, I tried everything to include programming each button individually, it just won't respond to steering wheel buttons correctly anymore.

So, after checking the wiring once again to make sure you've connected everything correctly, I would try to eliminate the PAC unit. That may require buying a straight harness adapter if you don't have one, and see if it works. Even if you just connect the Power Source and Ground wires just to see if the radio turns on.

If you do NOT have steering wheel controls or a factory amp, the only thing that PAC unit will provide you is the delayed radio turn off feature. Plus, the PAC unit you have, doesn't do steering wheel controls if you had them. So if it ends up the PAC unit is bad, up to you if want to wait for a new one or just install it without.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanx man. my unit doesnt have a knob inside. i just ordered another unit from walmart of all places. cheaper than anywhere else. This way at least ill know if the unit is bad or the head unit is bad.

The pac tech said this was the frst time hes heard of this case. it's almost wired backwards. thanx for all your help.
 

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Do you have a factory amp? If NOT, you don't need the PAC unit. You can wire your aftermarket radio right up to the adapter and it will work just fine, the only feature you loose if you don't use the PAC is the delayed turn off of the radio. If you wire the radio directly, then the radio will turn off as soon as you turn the ignition off.

Might be worth it at least to see if the problem was just the PAC unit.
 
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