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I want to put on 10mm spacers. Where can I find longer wheel lug part numbers? What is stock length?
 

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16 mm is the knurl diameter, not the length
I don't see any mention of the actual length - I've checked several websites and they all list them the same way.

My conclusion is that knurl diameter is the industry standard for how they are measured.

If you have any useful information to add - please do so jbmoose.
 

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I don't see any mention of the actual length - I've checked several websites and they all list them the same way.

My conclusion is that knurl diameter is the industry standard for how they are measured.

If you have any useful information to add - please do so jbmoose.


2006-2010 Commander wheel studs are .667 knurl diameter, .781 knurl length, 1.906 under-head length, 1/2 x 20 thread. And to the OP of the thread, good luck finding anything. You wont. I've been dealing with this for the last week and a half. I've spoken to ARP, various 4wd shops, Moser Engineering, Moroso, and have emails to a few other sites. You can call ARP manufacturing at 805-525-1497, and ask for special orders and give that a try, but i doubt they will make just 20, and if they do, it prob be pricey. Im trying to clear calipers for JK Moab wheels, and i wanted a wheel centric/hub centric spacer (with its own hub lip to fit in the wheel) just to clear the brakes. The factory hub sticks out 5/16", so the thinnest anyone would make wheel centric/hub centric spacer is 7/16". So i was looking for a oe size stud, just 1/2" longer. No dice. Spoke to Jason at Moser Engineering, and his idea wasnt bad either. You could go with their 8620 wheel stud, but the knurl diameter is .685, and thats gonna be tough to press into the hub unless you use a 43/64" drill bit to chase the holes in the hub. They're also a 3" length. I asked about cutting them down to 2.4", and my concern with heat on them from a cutoff wheel, and he said you aint gonna hurt them. I've decided to grind the calipers, and go from there. Hope this helps. JB
 

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Moroso 46190 is the "Chrysler" big knurled end studs. 3" under the head, with the "quick start" ends (unthreaded section that makes starting a lug easy).

They are 0.685" at the knurl, and slightly bigger than what's normally on Jeep hubs. There isn't an ideal drill bit for these studs. The card they come on specs a hole size of 0.676" to 0.683". A 43/64 hole is 0.671", and is still a tight press. You won't press them in with the little bearing thing that pulls them through with the lug nut, you really need to put the hubs in a shop press to get them in. It's also best to use a drill press for the drilling, to get the holes straight. I actually prefer to drill 21/32 first, and use a reamer to enlarge the hole to 43/64.

If you don't want the "Ben Hur" chariot look with the lugs sticking out, you can cut them. Here's a few tips for cutting:

Thread a 1/2-20 die on the one you're cutting, backwards, so it will cut on it's way off. Then put a couple of nuts on the thing. The outer nut is "sacrificial" and used as a guide for your cutoff wheel on your angle grinder. The inner nut is a lock nut to keep the guide nut from moving. Both nuts will also act as "heat sinks" to pull some of the heat from cutting out of the stud and into the nuts. Don't use stainless nuts, use the lowest grade 1/2-20 nuts you can find. If you can find brass nuts that size, they will absorb a lot more heat and keep the piece cooler as you cut. Oh, and cutting oil/thread cutting oil applied as you cut will also keep things cooler.

Once it's cut, unlock the nuts from each other, thread them on a bit further and use the grinder cutting disk to chamfer the edges where you cut. Do that before threading everything off. The nuts might be hard to get off, and you might damage the threads in the nuts a bit. Don't sweat that. The die will cut and straighten the threads as it comes off last.

Good luck with it.
 

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2006-2010 Commander wheel studs are .667 knurl diameter, .781 knurl length, 1.906 under-head length, 1/2 x 20 thread. And to the OP of the thread, good luck finding anything. You wont. I've been dealing with this for the last week and a half. I've spoken to ARP, various 4wd shops, Moser Engineering, Moroso, and have emails to a few other sites. You can call ARP manufacturing at 805-525-1497, and ask for special orders and give that a try, but i doubt they will make just 20, and if they do, it prob be pricey. Im trying to clear calipers for JK Moab wheels, and i wanted a wheel centric/hub centric spacer (with its own hub lip to fit in the wheel) just to clear the brakes. The factory hub sticks out 5/16", so the thinnest anyone would make wheel centric/hub centric spacer is 7/16". So i was looking for a oe size stud, just 1/2" longer. No dice. Spoke to Jason at Moser Engineering, and his idea wasnt bad either. You could go with their 8620 wheel stud, but the knurl diameter is .685, and thats gonna be tough to press into the hub unless you use a 43/64" drill bit to chase the holes in the hub. They're also a 3" length. I asked about cutting them down to 2.4", and my concern with heat on them from a cutoff wheel, and he said you aint gonna hurt them. I've decided to grind the calipers, and go from there. Hope this helps. JB
Very good info JB, thanks for sharing.
 

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Its been a very trying task of getting these JK wheels to fit without sticking out too much, or at all. Most of the answers i get are "just buy some from Spidertrax". Here in PA, your tires arent supposed to be past the edge of fender or wheelwell (within reason) to pass annual state inspections. Also, Im not a fan of the aforementioned Ben-Hur chariot look. And I'm also not a fan of the plate or disc type spacers, and all that is really needed to clear these JK wheels is 7mm (in my trial and error, 6.5 mm yielded no grinding on the caliper; but the brake pads, while not old, have a few thousand miles on them, which probably brings the caliper in a smidge more than if with new pad thickness). And with the cost of custom hub centric/wheel centric spacers, and then the wheel stud conundrum, I figured i"ll give grinding the caliper and bracket a whirl. Lets go throw some sparks!
 

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Brakes ground down, wheels go on tomorrow. Honestly, it wasnt that bad. With the casting ridges on the caliper bracket, I got 18.5 mm using a dial caliper. When i got done grinding, I was at 12 mm. That being subjective, as grinding uniformly isnt easy. I'm not much for weights on the outer lip of the wheel, but its prob gonna be my only choice. The caliper hugs the inside of the spokes of the Moab wheel
 
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