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Hello all,

There are plenty of threads on this subject, but here's my story FWIW.

We have a 2006 4x4 4.7L. In June 2011, my wife experienced the infamous no start issue in the parking lot at her work. There seemed to be power to everything, but the engine would not turn over or start. Tow truck arrived, guy banged on starter underneath the car, it didn't help. End result - new starter on 14 Jun 2011 and no problems for about three months.

Fast forward to September 2011. Wife gets in the car to go to work one morning - car doesn't start. WTF :smiley35:, I ask myself, the starter is only three months old? Guy comes to check it out. End result - new battery on 8 Sep 2011.

Fast forward to last week, July 2013. Wife is at Target and gets in the car to come home and - what do you know - car doesn't start. Tow truck driver arrives and bangs on the starter underneath the car - it WORKS. Wife drives the car home, takes it to the shop a day or two later, but ever since the Target parking lot incident the car has been starting fine.

Today 13 Jul I spent most of the day taking apart the front driver side wheel well and replacing the terminal/connector on the end of the yellow wire that hooks up to the starter. Not much room to work in there. I shrink wrapped the new female connector with some of that heat shrink tubing, hooked it all back up, and the car started. Mind you, however, that it's been starting ever since it acted up last week, so I actually have no idea whether my all day project was worth anything.

I will post an update in a little while to give you guys an idea of whether this was the right fix for our problem. I sure hope so...

By the way, I wasn't able to re-attach the black plastic wheel well lining to the body-color plastic fender after the job was done. The friggin' little black plastic snaps/plugs/whatever you call them seem to be for one use only. Once you yank them out, they won't go back in. Any idea where I can find some replacement plugs?

THANK YOU all for your informative posts and your advice. God knows I would be much poorer save for your DIY instructions and encouragement!

- BR
 

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By the way, I wasn't able to re-attach the black plastic wheel well lining to the body-color plastic fender after the job was done. The friggin' little black plastic snaps/plugs/whatever you call them seem to be for one use only. Once you yank them out, they won't go back in. Any idea where I can find some replacement plugs?

THANK YOU all for your informative posts and your advice. God knows I would be much poorer save for your DIY instructions and encouragement!

- BR
I believe NAPA carries them.
 

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Just a stab in the dark but I had experienced the same problem with mine as well.. I eventually went through the electrical system and noticed that a few of my connections had come loose. Start with the fuse box for the BCM (under the hood) The main lead has a issue with coming loose from what I had learned from a buddy that is a tech at a local jeep store.
 

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Man same prob here and it was the connector on the starter. I broke the plastic piece, just used another connector to slide on there and protected it. Its the connection that is the intermitted starter problem.

Did that months ago and no probs since. It is tight, too tight to work.
 

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Is it possible to wire a new thicker ground cable from the starter directly to the negative battery post for a good ground connection or is that wrong?
 

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Is it possible to wire a new thicker ground cable from the starter directly to the negative battery post for a good ground connection or is that wrong?
I don't see a secondary ground being a bad thing, but if the engine to ground connection is not good there are plenty of other thing that are suffering from under voltage. If you were to make a secondary ground connection to the battery your commander would be better served if it was to the the engine block.
 

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1~So many electrical problems are caused by low battery voltage. That should be the first thing to check 12.+ volts is a must. If the meter is not showing somewhere around 12 volts,

2~Wait~! BEFORE disconnecting the battery ...

3~Scrape and clean and wire brush the battery terminals shiny. And the inside of the battery cable battery clamps.
Now, getting this voltage to where it needs to be is the next hard part. 'Voltage' is what pushes electrons down a wire ... No volts. No push. No start.

Sidebar; 'Electricity' is electrons flowing OVER a conductor never through the wire. Juice always takes the path of least resistance. Over the wire not through it.

4~Connections need to be perfectly clean and tight. Water, salt, oils, and soils will deteriorate connections.
40695

You won't believe me ... once I had a customer with a no start problem and a battery that would never take a charge even though the battery charged up out of the car. The alternator was making juice. But not going to ground. Long story short the braided cable to ground failed to conduct electricity when tested on the car or workbench.

And here is a funny thing about my Commander 4.7 ... the key switch was a recall factory deal ... along with that recall is a required 'N-27' re-flash of the computer. By not doing the key change my gear shift selector failed to shift. In fact, the shifter felt like it had zero resistance and the Commander locked up in 'P' ark. I took the shifter apart and there was nothing fixable or broken in it. I put it back together and called for a flat tow into the dealer.
Four black rubber streaks from 'chucking tires' when dragged up onto the flatbed in my driveway and strangely the rear wheels wanted to turn counter-clockwise while at the same time the front wheels wanted to turn clock-wise.

It turned out that that stupid ignition key lock tied to a 1/8th inch CABLE that pulls a safety switch in was not pulling in the cable anymore.
Dealer fixed it the next day that was 4 years ago this winter. Never a problem since. Since it was a factory recall the only charge was the tow. Also a heads up. The electric motor/solenoid that pulls the transfer box into 4wd LOW is also a recall deal. No charge. [Thought you can pull 'em apart and clean the terminal yourself to make it work again.]

Anybody on the Facebook Jeep Commander site?
 

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3 things:
I developed the problem, too. Commander runs fine and then when the ignition key is turned all I get is a click. BOTH times (so far) I was able to remedy the situation by taking it out of park and putting it back in. Starts right up.
I did watch a Youtube video where a guy has found that the yellow wire attached to the starter comes loose - push it back on solved his problem but, supposedly, it will wiggle itself free again after time.

Also, the little deals that re-attach the fender, etc are available everywhere - I got mine from Amazon. On the Grand Cherokee forum they are referred to as Plastic Rivots (attached pic) and there is a tool available to install them but isn't absolutely necessary. The idea is that the larger side goes down the hole and when the smaller side is PULLED it flares out the bigger side against the flange. YouTube has quick videos on how to do this with and without the tool. The tool was about 10 bucks so I just bought it and it works well.

Anywayz - I'm afraid to drive around now because I don't know if taking it out of park and then back in will continue to fix the problem. I have AAA but what a pain!!! :) Good luck everyone!!!
 

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I am currently having this same issue but it is happening after driving and letting it sit for 10 minutes or so. I try and start it, and it won't go. I try again and it starts. If I am driving for a longer period of time 3 hours or so it takes 3 tries to start it. I took it to the shop, they fixed the throttle valve or something, and it happened again! took it in again and now they are trying to figure it out
 
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