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Discussion Starter #1
So today I decided to start putting my 2 rc spacer lift on
And boom (luckily) first corner we started on gave us problems , and that is
Wear the install attempt ended.. I did get my wheel spacers on tho .


So here is the problem the bottom strut mount bolt
That runs through the control arm is seized to the bushing? However the bushing seems to be free. I took the back nut off and after about 30 minuets of cranking left and right with a pry bar a hammer and a torque wrench and even the nematic we were able to get the bolt to spin BUT the bushing spun also ?

Has this happend to any of you ? What do I do ?

Thanks for any and all honest help guys
 

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Yep I am running into the same problem right now. I am trying to replace my half shafts and I have to get that bolt out, it's doing the same as yours.
 

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Were you able to press the bushings in while the LCA's were still on the jeep? I am considering buying new LCA's and bolts. Just the 3 bushings and ball joint for lower looks to be around $80 a side plus time and energy getting out the old bushings and pressing in new. New LCA is $120.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input guys think I kno which way I'll be going about it now when I get to attempting it again,, in the meantime I mite as well wait until I get me some new front struts ,,, already have the monroe load levelers ready to go for the back,, was looking at the "super lift super ride" shock absorbers for the front, the normally used monroe quick struts?? Any one using the first or have any thoughts about them
 

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Having worked in auto parts stores for a number of years, I'm not a fan of Monroe QuickStruts. They work if you've damaged a spring or something, but the springs they use aren't exactly OE quality and the longevity of the struts will not match OE either.

I'd recommend Bilstein struts all the way. World class.

XK Lover: I was able to press the old bushings out and new ones in with the LCA on the vehicle, I prefer to keep factory parts rather than aftermarket. Aftermarket replacement parts are nice on the wallet but they rarely ever match the quality and durability of OEM hard parts. Very few brands are worth the money if they aren't OEM, I'll run Moog without worry.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are the quick strut coils actually lesser quality or are they just stiffer?? In your opinion? Have you heard anything of the superlift superride strut/spring combo part #88200

Soon as I order my new front stuff I'll get this dang lift on
 

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Are the quick strut coils actually lesser quality or are they just stiffer?? In your opinion? Have you heard anything of the superlift superride strut/spring combo part #88200
Quick Strut just means you get a strut with a new spring pre-installed.

How they perform or there quality is totally dependent on the brand/manufacturer.

Like someone already said in the thread, he doesn't trust aftermarket, low cost direct replacement quick struts. He does NOT believe they springs they come with are as quality, nor perform as well as the OEM springs. I would agree, low cost direct replacement parts are rarely as high quality as OEM. AFA a quick strut, you're litterally throwing away a perfectly good OEM spring that is likely far better than the cheap spring you just bought, just to save a few minutes of labor to disassemble/reassemble the struts. The spring compressor is NOT that expensive, as well you can borrow them from most auto stores for a refundable deposit. Granted removing the bolt on the top of the strut is a huge pain if its rusted on.

Of course if you're talking an aftermarket high performance quick strut, and you're convinced the quality/performance is as good or better than OEM that is different.

Stiffness is NOT a technical term that can be measured, the suspension performance is a combination of the spring rate and damping properties of the strut/shock, they should be matched to give best performance and they should be selected based on the desired performance. Installing strut/shock with higher damp rates (i.e. overdamping) can give properties that people would term more stiff.

But I would highly doubt manufacturers that are selling inexpensive direct replacement quickstruts are doing that, they are slapping together the least expensive parts they can get and marketing to folks that just want to get their car back on the road as cheaply as possible.
 

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I was able to buy the bushings at Napa.
The bolt was in stock at the dealership, we reused the original nut.
Luckly my buddy had already put a lift on his Grand Cherokee and knew about this issue. I even used Kroil on the bolts everyday for around a week but it did no good.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Damn I've been hoping that me soaking it with some pbb the past few days would help by the next weekend I try it,,, ok so did you cut the bushing out around the bolt? Or just hammer until it came out?? And then what was needed or done to get the new bushing back in??
 

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ImageUploadedByAG Free1410629613.617851.jpg we successfully removed both bushings. Now sitting here waiting for the mail with the bushings that was supposed to be here yesterday. We used a metabo to cut the bolt on both sides between the strut fork and LCA. Then we used the air chisel to drive the old bushings out. We also used some heat and a lot of PB.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Blahh that sounds fun man ,,, sucks the mail was late tho , I won't have a weekend off work for 2 weeks so I'm hoping I can get this done then (before the snow falls atleast) with no more unforeseen problems
 
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