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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've looked around a little online and I'm not really 100% sure coming up with the info. I am looking for. So I am appealing you all of you here to help me with this. Every vehicle I've ever owned (before the Commander) has had an mechanical oil pressure gauge in it. Short of your fuel gauge I find monitoring oil pressure to be just as important as anything else on your vehicle, especially, as JeepJorge pointed out to me earlier today, during the start up period where you hold your breath after an oil change (hoping for nothing to have gone wrong after the change). I'd like to know if there is a place to tap into for the sensor for a mechanical gauge. If not (I'm asking for my engine specific 2008 4.7 L sohc 305 hp. engine) where could I safely tap into to get an accurate/safe read? JeepJorge also pointed out that he thought that pillar post mounts could be adapted to the interior space of a Commander so a nice professional looking mount could also be had (which would also make your interior really unique too). Any 100% sure factual help would be greatly appreciated gang.
 

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I think the idiot light sending unit is by the filter. You should be able to tap in there. Mongo added a set of gauges - they sit on top of his dash, to the left of the steering wheel. Search "Mongo" and you can find his thread. He did a great job doing this. Also, you can remove one of your dash vents and install the gauge in the vent hole. BTW, your 4.7 is a SOHC, not a DOHC. The major changes to your version, called Power Tech Corsair, were 2 plugs/cyl. and new heads for better air flow. HP went to 305, from 235. :eek:rangehat:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks dhh3. My bad on DOHC over SOHC I actually mistyped, glad you caught that, I will go back and edit so I don't further confuse anyone. Great idea on the idiot light sender, I will begin to look into that....makes sense (why the heck didn't I think of that?). I'll also contact Mongo about his project ask his advice too. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just found a nice looking universal pillar mount, Sunpro, comes in single, dual and triple mounts. This may provide for a nice clean, professional install look. What do you think?

Single Gauge Pod, Single a-Pillar Gauge Pod
 

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http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14330

I've had a mechanical oil pressure gauge capillary tube burst, what a mess, and I was stuck because the engine lost oil pressure. If it breaks in the passenger compartment, can you imagine the mess?

I've never had a problem with electric oil pressure gauges, the Autometer Electric work great, responsive, accurate and come in a variety styles. The worse I have ever had, was a slow leak at the sensors threads that made a little bit of mess, never left me stranded.

I have the gauge pod on my Neon R/T, they really need one that is designed to fit the "A" pillar trim piece or they can look like it crap.

You can find a few threads where guys have fit the 2&1/16th" gauges in the circular vents in the dash.

For mine I used the gauge cups and and mounted them on the dash, as you can see in the link above.

Where I got my gauges and accessories:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Auto-Meter/Part-Type/Gauges-Analog/Gauge-Type/Oil-pressure/?Ns=Rank|Asc
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Auto-Meter/Part-Type/Gauge-Mounting-Pods-Pillar/?Ns=Rank|Asc&autoview=ProductName
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Auto-Meter/Part-Type/Gauge-Mounting-Cups/?Ns=Rank|Asc
http://www.jegs.com/vpt/Auto-Meter/Oil-Pressure-Gauge/105
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?vendor=105&Ntk=Brand|PartType_x&langId=-1&Jnar=0&catalogId=10002&Nty=1&I=p&Ne=1%202%203%202500000%201147708&Ntt=Auto+Meter|^Gauge+Pod^&storeId=10001&Ntx=mode%20matchall|mode%20matchall&N=0&redirect=false&itemPerPage=60
http://www.jegs.com/p/Auto-Meter/Auto-Meter-Mounting-Cups-Panels/745207/10002/-1
 

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I think the idiot light sending unit is by the filter.
I wanted to keep the idiot light working, my wife drives the Commander more than I do, so I didn't swap sensors.

My How-To I posted is about installing the sending unit in another port and keeping the sending unit for idiot light where it was at. If you don't want the idiot light, you can just swap the sensor, that will likely make things much easier to install. The Autometer Sending unit has 1/8" NPT threads, don't know what threads the stock sensor is, so you may need an adapter.

Another option is to remove the stock sender and mount both on a plumbing "T" that connects to the stock port. BUT, there is NOT a lot of room to work in there and its close to the accessory belt, so you may have to go to my approach, fitting an adapter to the one journal plug by the oil filter. It really wasn't hard at all, after I figured out what pieces I need, which I posted in the How-To, you can get them at most hardware stores for a few bucks.

Keep in mind, the FSM talks about the sensor being more than just an low oil pressure idiot light switch. I don't know, but maybe the vehicle electronics monitor it and react to it (although guys have posted they have erroronous low oil pressure light and the vehicle drives just fine).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the updated info Mongo, I ordered in a universal a-pillar post mount for a 2 1/16 gauge and it would not have fit to the pillar the way I wished (I'm picky so I'm looking for a professional looking install). I did see on YouTube some guy in an asian nation (chinese or japanese lettering, not sure which) had mounted a vacuum gauge in the top middle vent in his Commander....I emailed him but have not heard back (he may not understand what I asked him). I think I am going to try an electrical sending unit model (Autometer) to keep from running the 1/8 oil line to the cockpit, also think that is smart to do because when I do go offroad its down long lanes into woods, I'd hate to snag the line and slowly leak my oil out that way, yet along have it burst (like you described) especially into the cabin, gosh that would be a mess! Thanks for the help on the sending unit location, both you and dhh3 have steered me in the right directions. Now its a matter of figuring out if its just the 8 allen head bolts to take the dash insert piece out in my cabin to access behind the vent openings...if it is then i should easily be able to mount inside with a cup mount then snake the wire down to somewhere where I can find it a way thru the firewall to the engine bay to wire. When I get all this done I'll post up pics...now I just need to find the time to do all this.
 

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Now its a matter of figuring out if its just the 8 allen head bolts to take the dash insert piece out in my cabin to access behind the vent openings...if it is then i should easily be able to mount inside with a cup mount then snake the wire down to somewhere where I can find it a way thru the firewall to the engine bay to wire. When I get all this done I'll post up pics...now I just need to find the time to do all this.
Its more than that, but you're on the right track.
IIRC:
  • You have to pull up the trim piece off the shifter first (1 or 2?)
  • Then pull up the center console trim panel that goes around the shifter.
  • Then remove the trim panel that goes up the center from the center console (the one that covers the radio and has the heat knobs in it).
  • Then you remove all 8 allen screws to pull away the dash.
Actually, one of the 8 allen screws is a dummy screw, it just screws into the plastic dash piece and NOT the support underneath it. They must have added the extra just for symmetry to make it look cool. BUT, pull all 8, don't want to mix them up and break something.

Thats from memory, I probably forgot something, so if something isn't giving, don't force it, look for what else needs to be removed.

Grounds are a no brainer to find.

You have to pull the instrument cluster to get to wiring behind it and splice into the few circuits you need.

The Switched source and lights are harder to find, I have them listed in the how too, hopefully they did NOT change the pin-outs and wire colors over the model years. Mine was a 2010.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the extra info. on the dash piece removal. Ha Ha...I guess in the back of my head I just knew it wouldn't be as simple as 8 (&) allen bolts. :) I'll follow your directions to the tee and go easy and smart on it. A friend of mine who is a mechanic for a living will be helping me with the wiring in part, I'll just be doing the mounting....Thanks!
 

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Its more than that, but you're on the right track.
IIRC:
  • You have to pull up the trim piece off the shifter first (1 or 2?)
  • Then pull up the center console trim panel that goes around the shifter.
  • Then remove the trim panel that goes up the center from the center console (the one that covers the radio and has the heat knobs in it).
  • Then you remove all 8 allen screws to pull away the dash.
Actually, one of the 8 allen screws is a dummy screw, it just screws into the plastic dash piece and NOT the support underneath it. They must have added the extra just for symmetry to make it look cool. BUT, pull all 8, don't want to mix them up and break something.

Thats from memory, I probably forgot something, so if something isn't giving, don't force it, look for what else needs to be removed.

Grounds are a no brainer to find.

You have to pull the instrument cluster to get to wiring behind it and splice into the few circuits you need.

The Switched source and lights are harder to find, I have them listed in the how too, hopefully they did NOT change the pin-outs and wire colors over the model years. Mine was a 2010.
Boy, that is a PITA for 08's and above. 06 and 07, just remove the face plate. 5 of the 16 allen head bolts are fake, but it doesn't matter if you remove all 16! :sick:

CommandSystemsGo!, I think cico7 installed gauges in his dash vents. You can PM him, and if I am wrong, he can say I don't know what I'm talking about! Won't be the first time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cry:
 

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...06 and 07, just remove the face plate. 5 of the 16 allen head bolts are fake, but it doesn't matter if you remove all 16! :sick:
Well, its like the '08 and later, right?, the allen head bolts are real, its just some are installed for show, they aren't screwing into the frame under the dash and clamping it down.

But, we all agree, don't risk it, remove them all, if you leave a real mounting screw in, thinking its just for show, you could end up breaking something.
 
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