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I just replaced my lower ball joint today. It wasn't that hard. I got a ball joint service kit from Harbor Freight $55. Here Are some Pics.

The Kit.



When doing the ball joint you don't have to remove the hub. I unbolted the upper control arm,the tie rod ,the sway bar link,the bottom clevis for the strut, and I took the caliper and rotor off tho lighten the load. Then I just zip tied it all out of the way.

Caliper zip tied out of the way


Remove The clevis

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Removing the rotor



Unclip the sensor so you don't damage the wires.



Once you get everything off you just unbolt the lower ball joint. there is just enough room to slide the ball joint out. Move it all aside to get to the ball joint.



 

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I started to remove the ball joint Bye hammering the two tabs in on the top. Then I used the kit to start pressing it out. I finished it out bye using a socket and hitting it with a hammer.





 

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With the ball joint kit you have to reconfigure it a couple of times to get it all the way in. The new ball joint has a grease fitting and a exit point for excess grease to come out of the boot. They tell you to face the grease exit point to the inside. Once it is in put the c-clip on and your done. Well not done you have to put everything back together.

New and old joint











 

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Awesome write up! I have the exact same HF Kit in the garage I plan on using for the Wagoneer in 3-4 weeks. Good to know I can use it on the Commander.
 

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Thanks for the great "How To". I'm saving it to my bookmarks.
 

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Great write up! Which brand of ball joint did you use? Is that blood in the third to last image?
 

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Just an update. If you look at the two pic below you can see that the c-clip did not sit all the way in. The arm is sloped upward so the clip cannot snap in. I took the clip off and used a dremmal to grind it flat so the clip would slip in. When I do the other side I will grind it before I install the new one. I will take a pic of the new clip install tomorrow,



 

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Truth be told, the snap ring is unnecessary for this application......you notice they aren't used on the original setup.
The spring is always pushing the arm downward, the knuckle is always pushing the joint upward.....the result is the joint will always be fully seated.

All that aside, using an additional retention source certainly can't hurt a thing.

Solid and informative write up...well done!

Rob
 

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Great write up! Which brand of ball joint did you use? Is that blood in the third to last image?

Its a Moog. And I didn't notice but yeah I think it might be blood. lol. I'm good for busting a knuckle or two.:)
 

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Truth be told, the snap ring is unnecessary for this application......you notice they aren't used on the original setup.
The spring is always pushing the arm downward, the knuckle is always pushing the joint upward.....the result is the joint will always be fully seated.

All that aside, using an additional retention source certainly can't hurt a thing.

Solid and informative write up...well done!

Rob
Thanks Robby, You called it! it was my ball joint squeaking. it was real bad. My truck feels new. Thanks again.
 

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Truth be told, the snap ring is unnecessary for this application......you notice they aren't used on the original setup.
The spring is always pushing the arm downward, the knuckle is always pushing the joint upward.....the result is the joint will always be fully seated.

All that aside, using an additional retention source certainly can't hurt a thing.
Yea, I bet the Moog replacement parts fits several different vehicles and some of them require the "C" clip others do NOT.

I would have done the same thing, only thing I would have done different would have been to trim the "C" clip with the dremel and NOT the control arm, so the shortened "C" clip fit. Of course, NOT being there, my suggestion may NOT have worked.

Thanks for the write up and pics D-niceCommander!
 

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Although its counter the force, I would not say the c-clip is unnecessary. It will prevent creep which is possible, though very very unlikely. The stock balljoint has metal tabs that are folded over to keep it from backing out.

I would adamantly advise against installing a joint without the c-clip in place.
 

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The stock balljoint has metal tabs that are folded over to keep it from backing out.
Ah, light bulb is on, that makes the difference, thus the replacement part needs to have some sort of measure to prevent it from backing out, thus the "C" clip. Moog must figure its easier (or less likely to mess up) for most repairers to use a "C" clip than try to press or punch down metals tabs like the OEM version.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
There were tabs on the old ball joint. But as you can see in this pic the clip sits just a bit off the arm. I don't know how much the clip is doing but knowing its in all the way just makes me fell better.lol. I was going to grind the clip. I thought it would have weakened the clip. The arm is pretty soft so it went quick. You can see how the arm goes up toward the back.

 

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Thanks D-niceCommander for a great write up ,, do you know the part number for this Moog ball joint?
 

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Thanks for a thorough install explanation with pics.
Those pics help to see what i'm in for. Hopefully I get to mine this monday.
I didn't want to put a 2" lift on without tightening up the front end.
Great Thread!
 
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