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I bought my 07 Commander Rocky Mountain edition 3.7L last January 2010. It had around 31k miles upon purchase. Supposedly, it was considered a 5-star lease and that means " All servicing has been done and maintained etc etc etc" Salesman's words not mine. Anyway, I liked the one we test drove, we struck a deal and it went home with me.

A few weeks go by and check the oil, air in tires etc. The oil was filthy. So I took it back and said as much. The dealership apologized and performed the change for free. Said it hadn't been serviced since Sept 2009. Not sure how he knew or could tell. Computer records at the shop? So if he could tell that couldn't he tell me whether or not the other services had ben completed?

Has anyone ever asked for these records and did they give them up?

At the next servicing the service guy said something to the fact that I should also look into having the drive train fluids replaced too. I am thinking WTH, doesn't this get changed out at the 30k servicing which should have been done? Then I recall that even the oil probably hadn't been changed at the 30k mark.

So anyway I cool off and kind of forgot (read: blacked it out) about it. But lately it is on my mind about the 30k servicing and whether or not it really occurred. I am near 46k now.

You could say that I am worried that nothing has really been completed on this vehicle that I haven't done myself or had done at the shop. Not sure how I can prove otherwise. Yeah, I know, life kind of got in the way and went by faster than I realized.

Anyone have any ideas on how I can tell if plugs/wires have been changed, transfer case fluid and tranny fluids changed?

Unless I find solid proof of the 30k service I am going to get these done. Would hate to waste money on service not needed except for peace of mind. Have you guys ever asked for the service records? Is there a way to retrieve them online somehow?

Sorry for the long post.
 

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I bought my 07 Commander Rocky Mountain edition 3.7L last January 2010. It had around 31k miles upon purchase. Supposedly, it was considered a 5-star lease and that means " All servicing has been done and maintained etc etc etc" Salesman's words not mine. Anyway, I liked the one we test drove, we struck a deal and it went home with me.

A few weeks go by and check the oil, air in tires etc. The oil was filthy. So I took it back and said as much. The dealership apologized and performed the change for free. Said it hadn't been serviced since Sept 2009. Not sure how he knew or could tell. Computer records at the shop? So if he could tell that couldn't he tell me whether or not the other services had ben completed?

Has anyone ever asked for these records and did they give them up?

At the next servicing the service guy said something to the fact that I should also look into having the drive train fluids replaced too. I am thinking WTH, doesn't this get changed out at the 30k servicing which should have been done? Then I recall that even the oil probably hadn't been changed at the 30k mark.

So anyway I cool off and kind of forgot (read: blacked it out) about it. But lately it is on my mind about the 30k servicing and whether or not it really occurred. I am near 46k now.

You could say that I am worried that nothing has really been completed on this vehicle that I haven't done myself or had done at the shop. Not sure how I can prove otherwise. Yeah, I know, life kind of got in the way and went by faster than I realized.

Anyone have any ideas on how I can tell if plugs/wires have been changed, transfer case fluid and tranny fluids changed?

Unless I find solid proof of the 30k service I am going to get these done. Would hate to waste money on service not needed except for peace of mind. Have you guys ever asked for the service records? Is there a way to retrieve them online somehow?

Sorry for the long post.
It sounds like your probably past due for plugs then. You can buy Bosch platinum or any comparable plugs for $3 a piece, it takes about an hour to change them...you will know for sure by pulling out one plug, it if looks pretty worn out (if they are the originals then they should) then do them all. As far as the other driveline fluids, you should get in your owners manual and look up when they need changed and do all of that at the service marks set there. If the mileage is past due, then I'd do it just for piece of mind (yours that is)...because it sounds like you just don't know if or not they've been changed in the past. Hope that helps. Happy Jeepin! :)
 

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Yeah, I'm reading up on the plug change now. So far it looks pretty simple. I've changed plugs before on SUV's so it shouldn't be too bad.
Plugs and wires will definitely happen first. I'll figure out fluids later. Next time I am in the dealership I will ask about the service records just to see what their response is.

It has been idling a little rough and fuel mileage sucks more than usual. The plugs should help.
 

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Yeah, I'm reading up on the plug change now. So far it looks pretty simple. I've changed plugs before on SUV's so it shouldn't be too bad.
Plugs and wires will definitely happen first. I'll figure out fluids later. Next time I am in the dealership I will ask about the service records just to see what their response is.

It has been idling a little rough and fuel mileage sucks more than usual. The plugs should help.
Add a small bottle of Lucas Oil Co. fuel system cleaner to your next fill-up ($4)...that will help to clean out any carbon and lubricate the injectors, I use a bottle of it about every 1K mi. to keep my fuel system clean, lubed. Between that and the plug change you should be able to get her to purr nicely again. :)
 

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The 3.7L has the Waste Spark Ignition system, some people with this kind of ignition system have reported problems when they use other than the OEM plug, especially platinum.

If you're going to get platinum, make sure you get double platinum, they are designed to work with the reverse current flow of the waste spark system that ends reversing anode/cathode on half the plugs. Single platinum, you reverse anode/cathode, it could end up eroding the plugs much faster than standard plugs.
 

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IMO,

Whenever a secondhand vehicle is aquired I automatically assume it has not been well maintained, regardless of what the dealer says.
One should assume if the dealers lips are moving he is likely lieing.
All that aside, I would recommend a correctly done trans service to start.
If it was flushed, the filters likely were untouched.
Not much point in pulling the pan if a flush occured so it likely still has the original filters.
The transer case should be serviced, it is due by mileage.
Plugs should be changed for the same reason and I would not be shocked if you found it still is wearing its original air filter.
If it does not have a trailer hitch, you don't have to address the differentials...yet. But do consider it around the 50 k mark just for preventative maintainance purposes.

With the low mileage, even if the previous oil changes were not very timely the odds are there is minimal grime in the engine.
Two oil/filter changes at 1000 mile intervals will clean it out nicely.

I think you'll be fine and welcome aboard!

Rob
 

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You can go to the Jeep Website, even my dealer has a feature on their website, where you can create an account and it will show all your Chrysler vehicles still in service. You can click on them and see there service record.

It will tell you very little, just a record of when it was in the Dealership and generally what was done, if I remember correctly, no more detailed then "Service: Body", "Service: Mechanical".

You can read the stories hear on this forum, the Dealership network is out of control, there is just one horror story after another of people going in and asking for just the standard 30k mile service and the dealership charging them $1600 for all sorts of servicing NOT called for by the manufacturer, while skipping service called for by the manufacturer, and on top of that, NOT following the manufacturer procedures and doing their own procedures, like flushing transmissions. I would NOT trust anyone from a Dealership telling a vehicle was well maintained.

Like Robby said, plus a suggestion to organize your tasks, get the Owner's Manual (OM), if it didn't come with one, you can download an electronic copy for free at the Jeep website. Review the maintenance schedule in it, try to confirm if it was done or NOT.

If you can do it yourself, then its more then cheap enough to do the jobs, just to be sure it was done, even if it is being redone.
 

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I agree with Robby change it just to be safe and assume it was never done. If the oil wasn't changed what makes you think they sprung for the more expensive trans service or changed the TC or the diff fluid. Just spent a few hundred dollars and get it all done so you have nothing to worry about and peace of mind is worth that as well. A decent Jeep dealer should be able to do the trans,TC, front and rear diff for less then $300. The TC and diffs you can do yourself and save money it's not hard. The trans service ain't hard either but usually scares people so they have that done. If you get it all done at once then you can start your own service record history and know where you're at from now on.
 

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All good points guys. Thanks for he insight. I think I now feel more at ease doing the service and not feeling it is wasted cash/time.

So far this is what I have done since I bought the vehicle.

I replaced the old (felt like they were warped) brake rotors with slotted drilled rotors and matching brake pads. Stops on a dime and I no longer feel vibration when braking.

I installed a drop in K&N air filter the day I noticed the oil was dirty. The air filter was also full of bugs and stuff. I cleaned out the air box best I could when I changed the filter. That reminds me, I am due for a filter cleaning. }: >

I think in the next couple of weeks I'll do the plugs and clean the filter. I'll drop in some injector cleaner at the next fill up too. I'm not due for an oil change for another 2k. So far I have stayed on schedule for all oil changes. Then I will make plans for the other fluids.

I've read through several of the spark plug threads as well as some of the dealership horror stories. My dealer left a 2x4 on top of my muffler after having the rear sub frame and hitch replaced due to a rear end accident. Took me a few days to figure out what the vibration was at idle.

I do have a trailer hitch but I could not find a wiring harness anywhere on the vehicle. A little bummed about that as the cheapest I found was about $85 on feebay. So far I have only used the hitch for my bike rack.

I am also in the process of building a cargo box. I've already removed my third row seating. It's just a matter of time and fair weather for me to finish it up. My kids still use car seats so I won't have use for the third row until they grow out of them in a few (2-4) years. By then I may graduate to a 4 door wrangler.

Thanks again for the input guys I really appreciate it.
 

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I think in the next couple of weeks I'll do the plugs and clean the filter. I'll drop in some injector cleaner at the next fill up too. I'm not due for an oil change for another 2k. So far I have stayed on schedule for all oil changes. Then I will make plans for the other fluids.
I suggest for the spark plugs get the OEM brand/model/part number in the O.M.; if you really want to go with Platinum, get the Double Platinum. You see lots of posts, and for other vehicles with this kind of ignition system, with people swearing they never had a problem with single Platinum plugs and others that stated they used single platinum and 6k miles later they had ignition symptoms and had to change the plugs again. The Double Platinum were designed for this kind of ignition system, the D.I.S. Waste Spark system, where one coil shares 2 spark plugs.

If you're going to change the fluids yourself, its definitely worth going overkill, because you save so much money. Change both axle fluids, change the transfer case fluid and Trans fluid.

Trans fluid & filter may be a challenge, the 3.7L V6 has the Mercedes NAG1/W5A580 Transmission. It doesn't come with a dipstick, and you're suppose to set the fluid level exactly with a chart according to fluid temp and use a special tool dipstick for exact measurement. I got the special tool dipstick for $25 off ebay, I installed a trans temp gauge on my Commander, but I'm sure a good thermometer pressed up against the trans pan for a few minutes would work. The dealer uses their proprietary tool to read what the trans temp sensor says the fluid temp is. I had no problem changing the trans fluid in my NAG1/W5A580, but I'm a lot more exprerienced shade tree mechanic than most people, this is one you might consider having the dealer do. And tell the Dealer to follow the TSB and do NOT flush the trans.

Personally I change PS fluid and Brake fluid at 30k miles on my vehicles, but that is overkill, and only worth it if you save the money doing it yourself.
I do have a trailer hitch but I could not find a wiring harness anywhere on the vehicle. A little bummed about that as the cheapest I found was about $85 on feebay. So far I have only used the hitch for my bike rack.
I don't think any of the V6 Commanders came with a TOW Package, so the TOW rating is pretty low, and probably the reason for NO wire harness. OR the tow hitch was added later.

And that would make me a tad nervous, it would NOT be hard at all to exceed the TOW rating for a V6 Commander and put a lot of extra stress on the vehicle.

Another reason to change the trans fluid, you don't know if the previous owner has cooked the trans fluid in there now, fresh fluid would be a smart move to ensure that trans lasts.
 

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My v6 commander came with the tow package. It's capable to 5,000 pounds provided the trailer has brakes. I believe 2,500 w/out trailer brakes.

My wifes liberty is the same rating as well.

We don't tow often. Just bringing the pontoon boat from storage to the water in the summer.
 

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Doesn't any dealer maintenance performed show up on Carfax? You did get a Carfax, right?
I recall being shown one and then being rushed through the entire process only to hurry up and wait wait wait in the lobby. I did not find a copy of any carfax report in my papers afterward. I'm quite a bit smarter after this purchase experience. I thought I had done my homework before the purchase but I know now that I didn't scratch the surface when it came to the negotiation, what was included in the price, differences between the commander models etc etc.

I got snowed and I know it. But I learned and will emerge victorious next time.

I plan to get the plugs changed in 2 or 3 weeks and get the fluids changed by the end of the month. All due to timing and funds.
 

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My v6 commander came with the tow package. It's capable to 5,000 pounds provided the trailer has brakes. I believe 2,500 w/out trailer brakes.

My wifes liberty is the same rating as well.

We don't tow often. Just bringing the pontoon boat from storage to the water in the summer.
Is that a TOW Package? Or just the TOW Rating for the stock vehicle?

I don't know for sure, I'll check my 2010 OM tonight. Keep in mind, just about all tow vehicles will come with a TOW rating. The TOW package is extra equipment that address the extra stress and control of towing heavier loads and thus ups you TOW rating.

A Tow Rating of 2.5k lbs w/out trailer brakes and 5k lbs w/ trailer brakes in a nearly 5k lb vehicle empty, I wouldn't be surprised if that is just the stock tow rating.

Something I learned this weekend, help my brother change his plugs on his 2007 Grand Cherokee w/3.7L QT1, his 3.7L had an individual coil for every plug, so it was NOT a wasted spark, shared coil system, like my 2010 3.7L. Considering how much the Grand Cherokee and Commander had in common, it could very well be the earlier Commanders did NOT have a wasted spark system.

The key is, if there is one coil per plug or if there is a coil for one plug with an ignition wire going to another plug? If its the later, its the wasted spark system.
 
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