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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having issues and I have yet to find a dealer or mechanic who can replicate it. They all sit there and talk crap about it but dont want to commit to fixing it. Tested battery and alternator with a charger and both were fine- I am running out of ideas and time and places to take it to. I cant afford to keep taking it to places and them not being able to tell me whats wrong.

2008 V6 Sport 2WD. 175k miles. It RARELY goes more than 15 miles from home and rarely over 45 mph.

1. Randomly wont start- stays in that spot where it "rumbles" but wont actually start. Like I can drive 3 hours at 80 mph and wont have an issue after waiting 5 minutes.and will start up beautifully. Another time I can drive the 80 mph for 3 hours, wait over 24 hours and it will start to go 10 minutes at 35 mph and wont start. Wait the 5 minutes and it will start fine on the first try. Cant figure out HOW to replicate it so mechanic has no idea what could be wrong.

2. Burns oil like CRAZY. They put the dye in but by the time I can get an appointment for it to be checked they cant figure it out.

3. Dash messages wont change- stuck at the compass. Buttons on the steering wheel do anything. Horn doesnt work- stopped like 6 months ago. Drivers side door doesnt lock anymore- rest of the car does just not my door. Door was replaced about 2 years ago and the windows are starting to roll up slower.

4. Does everything slow-I am afraid if I do it too fast it will stall- it like freezes- then goes super low- then will take off so fast it will skid.

5. Yesterday went to take it and it froze bad- then all the sudden Traction, ESP and ABS turned on and wont turn off! So atleast there is progress in the breaking down of Colonel. Now I am afraid of getting stuck with my kids and having to walk home (FYI tow trucks dont take passengers anymore)- dont have a code reader but did the key thing and it only gave me P0507.

Any ideas? Anything to look for? Something to put me in a solid direction somewhere? I am hoping that some of that is connected- When the ABS, Traction and ESP turns on thats seems like the Throttle Body Sensor but at this point that might not even be it. The EMC could be the issue and that I have to take it to the dealership and shell out $500.
 

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That is an impressive list - On the starter problem does it turn over and not start/run or just turn key and nothing? Many starter problems and fixes posted here.
Use the search box above as many of those problems have been posted here.
 
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I am having issues and I have yet to find a dealer or mechanic who can replicate it. They all sit there and talk crap about it but dont want to commit to fixing it. Tested battery and alternator with a charger and both were fine- I am running out of ideas and time and places to take it to. I cant afford to keep taking it to places and them not being able to tell me whats wrong.

2008 V6 Sport 2WD. 175k miles. It RARELY goes more than 15 miles from home and rarely over 45 mph.

1. Randomly wont start- stays in that spot where it "rumbles" but wont actually start. Like I can drive 3 hours at 80 mph and wont have an issue after waiting 5 minutes.and will start up beautifully. Another time I can drive the 80 mph for 3 hours, wait over 24 hours and it will start to go 10 minutes at 35 mph and wont start. Wait the 5 minutes and it will start fine on the first try. Cant figure out HOW to replicate it so mechanic has no idea what could be wrong.

2. Burns oil like CRAZY. They put the dye in but by the time I can get an appointment for it to be checked they cant figure it out.

3. Dash messages wont change- stuck at the compass. Buttons on the steering wheel do anything. Horn doesnt work- stopped like 6 months ago. Drivers side door doesnt lock anymore- rest of the car does just not my door. Door was replaced about 2 years ago and the windows are starting to roll up slower.

4. Does everything slow-I am afraid if I do it too fast it will stall- it like freezes- then goes super low- then will take off so fast it will skid.

5. Yesterday went to take it and it froze bad- then all the sudden Traction, ESP and ABS turned on and wont turn off! So atleast there is progress in the breaking down of Colonel. Now I am afraid of getting stuck with my kids and having to walk home (FYI tow trucks dont take passengers anymore)- dont have a code reader but did the key thing and it only gave me P0507.

Any ideas? Anything to look for? Something to put me in a solid direction somewhere? I am hoping that some of that is connected- When the ABS, Traction and ESP turns on thats seems like the Throttle Body Sensor but at this point that might not even be it. The EMC could be the issue and that I have to take it to the dealership and shell out $500.
@Colonel08 ; Katie;

1) The starting issue could be related to the yellow wire that connects to the starter which tends to build up corrosion at the point of connection, that can & will give you, a variety of starting problems.

Find where that yellow wire connects to the starter and give that connection a thorough inspection AFTER you disconnect the battery.

If you see any hint of corrosion or rust where that yellow wire connects to the starter - disconnect that wire and thoroughly clean the corrosion off of that yellow wire & off of the connection point on the starter, with a wire brush until it is 100% clean, corrosion free & shiny.

Once it's clean, reconnect that yellow wire to the starter and then reconnect the battery.

2) There's a difference between burning oil & leaking oil;

If you are truly burning oil, you should regularly see a white/blueish smoke coming from your exhaust pipe - and if you do see this, it's normally indicative of worn piston rings, which means you would need to have your piston rings replaced at a bare minimum; Worst case, you could need to have your cylinder heads rebuilt.

3) If by Freezes - you means sputters/hesitates like it wants to stall, that could be any number of issues - but my guess is, it's related to that one DTC that you generated when you did the key dance;

Here is what it says about DTC P0507;

P0507 Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description

Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

What does P0507 mean?

This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is a generic powertrain code, which means that it applies to OBD-II equipped vehicles. Although generic, the specific repair steps may vary depending on make/model. Anecdotally, this code seems to be more commonly found on Chevrolet, VW, Nissan, Audi, Hyundai, Honda, Mazda and Jeep vehicles.

This P0507 code is one that's sometimes triggered on vehicles that have electronic throttle control. That is, they don't have a regular throttle cable from the accelerator pedal to the engine. They rely on sensors and electronics to control the throttle.

In this case, the P0507 DTC (diagnostic trouble code) is triggered when the PCM (powertrain control module) detects an engine idle speed that is greater than the desired (pre-programmed) RPM. In the case of GM vehicles (and possibly others) if the idle speed is over 200 rpm higher than expected, this code will be set.
An example of an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve:

P0507 IAC idle air control valve


Potential Symptoms

Most likely you'll notice the idle speed is higher than normal. There are potentially other symptoms as well. Of course, when trouble codes are set, the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, a.k.a. the check engine light) illuminates.

Causes

A P0507 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:
  • A vacuum leak
  • Leaking air intake after the throttle body
  • EGR valve leaking vacuum
  • A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve
  • Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body
  • Failed EVAP system
  • Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit
Possible Solutions

This DTC is more of an informational code, so if there are any other codes set, diagnose them first. If there are no other codes, inspect the intake air system for air or vacuum leaks and damage. If there are no symptoms other than the DTC itself, just clear the code and see whether it returns.

If you have an advanced scan tool that can interact with the car, command the idle higher and lower to see if the engine responds appropriately. Also check the PCV valve to see if it's blocked and needs to be replaced. Check the IAC (idle air controller) if equipped, verify it's operation. If available, try swapping in a new throttle body to see if that fixes the problem. On Nissan Altimas and possibly other vehicles the problem may be fixed by having the dealer perform an idle air relearn procedure, or other relearn procedures.

I hope I've given you some usable information & hopefully, this will help point you in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
That is an impressive list - On the starter problem does it turn over and not start/run or just turn key and nothing? Many starter problems and fixes posted here.
Use the search box above as many of those problems have been posted here.
The list isnt even all of it. Lol. I have wierd little things that arent as big of a deal and I dont think are connected. I am not that knowledgeable about cars and am learning as I go but I cant find a way they are connected.

It just sits on the edge of starting- I have a video of it doing it but describing it is hard. You know how they do the "shake" when they start (or atleast I am hoping its supposed to lmao)- it stays in "shaking."
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@Colonel08 ; Katie;

1) The starting issue could be related to the yellow wire that connects to the starter which tends to build up corrosion at the point of connection, that can & will give you, a variety of starting problems. Find where that yellow wire connects to the starter and give that connection a thorough inspection AFTER you disconnect the battery. If you see any hint of corrosion or rust where that yellow wire connects to the starter - disconnect that wire and thoroughly clean the corrosion off of that yellow wire & off of the connection point on the starter, with a wire brush until it is 100% clean, corrosion free & shiny. Once it's clean, reconnect that yellow wire to the starter and then reconnect the battery.

2) There's a difference between burning oil & leaking oil;

If you are truly burning oil, you should regularly see a white/blueish smoke coming from your exhaust pipe - and if you do see this, it's normally indicative of worn piston rings, which means you would need to have your piston rings replaced at a bare minimum; Worst case, you could need to have your cylinder heads rebuilt.

3) If by Freezes - you means sputters/hesitates like it wants to stall, that could be any number of issues - but my guess is, it's related to that one DTC that you generated when you did the key dance;

In this case, the P0507 DTC (diagnostic trouble code) is triggered when the PCM (powertrain control module) detects an engine idle speed that is greater than the desired (pre-programmed) RPM. In the case of GM vehicles (and possibly others) if the idle speed is over 200 rpm higher than expected, this code will be set.

Causes

A P0507 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:
  • A vacuum leak
  • Leaking air intake after the throttle body
  • EGR valve leaking vacuum
  • A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve
  • Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body
  • Failed EVAP system
  • Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit
If you have an advanced scan tool that can interact with the car, command the idle higher and lower to see if the engine responds appropriately. Also check the PCV valve to see if it's blocked and needs to be replaced. Check the IAC (idle air controller) if equipped, verify it's operation. If available, try swapping in a new throttle body to see if that fixes the problem.
I hope I've given you some usable information & hopefully, this will help point you in the right direction.
Yes! Thanks. I am planning on changing the TBS and cleaning the whole system this weekend. Depending how that goes and how frusterated I am after that I will be dealing with the starter wire- we did all the real housework last weekend so I have the time this weekend! I was looking at scanners yesterday but there are ALOT to choose from (another on my project list.) I have this posted alot of places so I actually have a list that I think I can handle by myself.

I dont have any exhaust smoke at all (I honestly rarely am near the back of the car when its on- so if I am getting any smoke its not enough for me to see it from the rear view mirror) but I have no oil spots anywhere. Even when it sits for a week and I put cardboard under it there is not one spot. Finding someone here who wants to deal with Colonel is redicilously hard BUT I just spotted another family business the other day so they will be getting a call when I get there on my list. I have taken it to other places that will fix it but I have to take it back to my original guy because they didnt put him back together correctly. Last time is was bolts (?) that werent tightened enough for my CV joints- took him 10 minutes and he didnt charge me but it was noticeable when I drove it home. How they "didnt hear anything" when they test drove it after redoing the CV joints is beyond me.

It just startedfreezing/hesitating the other day and has only done it once- thats also when the ABS/BAS, ESP and Traction lights came on. It is getting close to Colonels yearly Mechanic visit but I gotta recover from Christmas first. I am not sure if its the single mom and their inner voice being like, "Cant take money from her" but the majority of the mechanics tell me either, "That can wait and they arent going to do it now" or "We dont know the problem and cant commit to finding it- see if you can find someone else to diagnose it and we can double check and fix it." Some women have the issue of being taken advantage of but I cant even get that far in the process to be taken advantage of. :ROFLMAO::LOL:
 

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its a long shot but you may purchase some electrical contact cleaner and di-electric grease (home depot elec dept) and clean all of the connectors to the PCM (behind the coolant reservoir)... just something cheap to try and resetting those connections may help.. .
 

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Yes! Thanks. I am planning on changing the TBS and cleaning the whole system this weekend. Depending how that goes and how frusterated I am after that I will be dealing with the starter wire- we did all the real housework last weekend so I have the time this weekend! I was looking at scanners yesterday but there are ALOT to choose from (another on my project list.) I have this posted alot of places so I actually have a list that I think I can handle by myself.

I dont have any exhaust smoke at all (I honestly rarely am near the back of the car when its on- so if I am getting any smoke its not enough for me to see it from the rear view mirror) but I have no oil spots anywhere. Even when it sits for a week and I put cardboard under it there is not one spot. Finding someone here who wants to deal with Colonel is redicilously hard BUT I just spotted another family business the other day so they will be getting a call when I get there on my list. I have taken it to other places that will fix it but I have to take it back to my original guy because they didnt put him back together correctly. Last time is was bolts (?) that werent tightened enough for my CV joints- took him 10 minutes and he didnt charge me but it was noticeable when I drove it home. How they "didnt hear anything" when they test drove it after redoing the CV joints is beyond me.

It just startedfreezing/hesitating the other day and has only done it once- thats also when the ABS/BAS, ESP and Traction lights came on. It is getting close to Colonels yearly Mechanic visit but I gotta recover from Christmas first. I am not sure if its the single mom and their inner voice being like, "Cant take money from her" but the majority of the mechanics tell me either, "That can wait and they arent going to do it now" or "We dont know the problem and cant commit to finding it- see if you can find someone else to diagnose it and we can double check and fix it." Some women have the issue of being taken advantage of but I cant even get that far in the process to be taken advantage of. :ROFLMAO::LOL:
If you were burning oil, there would be alot of white/blueish smoke and you would have no trouble seeing it in the rear view/side view mirrors when sitting at idle.

Just for kicks, you can try disconnecting your battery for 45 minutes and then reconnect it.

This should reset your PCM (Powertrain Control Module).

Then reconnect the battery and start her up & see if it runs any better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
its a long shot but you may purchase some electrical contact cleaner and di-electric grease (home depot elec dept) and clean all of the connectors to the PCM (behind the coolant reservoir)... just something cheap to try and resetting those connections may help.. .
Honestly- its probably gonna be something CRAZY simple like that thats gonna fix it all lol. I think alot of my other issues are fuses that just need to be replaced- original owner did bare minimum maintance so its all catching up now.
 

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Honestly- its probably gonna be something CRAZY simple like that thats gonna fix it all lol. I think alot of my other issues are fuses that just need to be replaced- original owner did bare minimum maintance so its all catching up now.
Katie;

I was in the same boat, when I bought my Commander back in 2014 as the 2nd owner.

Here is some very good information pertaining to your fuses & the junction block with some very useful .PDF's that you should probably check out;

Junction Block explained | Jeep Commander Forum
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you were burning oil, there would be alot of white/blueish smoke and you would have no trouble seeing it in the rear view/side view mirrors when sitting at idle.

Just for kicks, you can try disconnecting your battery for 45 minutes and then reconnect it.

This should reset your PCM (Powertrain Control Module).

Then reconnect the battery and start her up & see if it runs any better.

Automotive side-view mirror Mirror Car Vehicle Tire

Thats dropping the pontoon in the water- only happened once with a few days rest inbetween- no smoke. I wasnt even surewe could do it so I had my parents with the F150 on standby lol
 

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Thats dropping the pontoon in the water- only happened once with a few days rest inbetween- no smoke. I wasnt even surewe could do it so I had my parents with the F150 on standby lol
How big is your Pontoon boat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Before I forget- I appreciate the suggestions! I wrote them down as a todo list for this weekend and will definitely update you guys on this.

Its a 1986 Lowe Bentley. 26 feet of sitting area and 28 feet in total- I have a thing for things that dont run properly according to my parents. :LOL: . It made it through the summer and I had the worst time bringing it in so I havent messed with it.
 

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Start with Blue's suggestion of disconnecting the battery for a bit. If the Colonel is "healed" for a bit of time, I think you will start to know where to go next.
 

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Before I forget- I appreciate the suggestions! I wrote them down as a todo list for this weekend and will definitely update you guys on this.

Its a 1986 Lowe Bentley. 26 feet of sitting area and 28 feet in total- I have a thing for things that dont run properly according to my parents. :LOL: . It made it through the summer and I had the worst time bringing it in so I havent messed with it.
@Colonel08 ;

No problem Katie, I'll be looking forward to your updates.

Pontoon boats are cumbersome and a 28 footer is a pretty big one.

Knowing very well what all is involved with trailering a boat, I wouldn't want to be trailering a Pontoon boat that big.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@Colonel08 ;

No problem Katie, I'll be looking forward to your updates.

Pontoon boats are cumbersome and a 28 footer is a pretty big one.

Knowing very well what all is involved with trailering a boat, I wouldn't want to be trailering a Pontoon boat that big.
When I bought it (dad went with me and we took the F150 lol) my parents lived on a sailboat and it was just covered and attached to their boat during the warm months. That ramp is maybe 2 miles away from my house and its all 35 mph so it wasnt a concern. Now they are living back on land with my grandmother and they sold the sailboat. So now I need to figure out if I am going to just buy a cheap truck to tow it to the ramp or put it in a slip for the summer to sell it or make the Jeep do it.
 

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When I bought it (dad went with me and we took the F150 lol) my parents lived on a sailboat and it was just covered and attached to their boat during the warm months. That ramp is maybe 2 miles away from my house and its all 35 mph so it wasnt a concern. Now they are living back on land with my grandmother and they sold the sailboat. So now I need to figure out if I am going to just buy a cheap truck to tow it to the ramp or put it in a slip for the summer to sell it or make the Jeep do it.
A two mile tow at 35 MPH is about as easy as it gets;

Do you really use the boat much?

Too bad you didn't at least have QT-I 4WD;
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Start with Blue's suggestion of disconnecting the battery for a bit. If the Colonel is "healed" for a bit of time, I think you will start to know where to go next.
I amr REALLY hoping that will get us through for a few weeks.We babysit a car but the owner is in town for a bit and once he leaves I have full permission to use the van as much as I need. Then I can get it in the shop when he isnt busy and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Do you really use the boat much?
We normally do. I have 3 kids and we take both dogs with us most of the times. But the engine conked out on me when I was bringing it in for the winter. But the daily driver comes first- I know enough to get by (I think) about my car but know nothing about a boat engine. We were all sailboaters and the pontoon is a 2 stroke and my father no longer lives where he can come over and help/explain it. I dont know what I am planning on doing with it- I am trying to get past Science Fair first lol
 

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We normally do. I have 3 kids and we take both dogs with us most of the times. But the engine conked out on me when I was bringing it in for the winter. But the daily driver comes first- I know enough to get by (I think) about my car but know nothing about a boat engine. We were all sailboaters and the pontoon is a 2 stroke and my father no longer lives where he can come over and help/explain it. I dont know what I am planning on doing with it- I am trying to get past Science Fair first lol
2 stroke outboards are pretty straight forward;

I spent a good chunk of my life going out on small boats, with 2 stroke outboards.

What did the engine do exactly, when it conked out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
2 stroke outboards are pretty straight forward;

I spent a good chunk of my life going out on small boats, with 2 stroke outboards.

What did the engine do exactly, when it conked out?
Lol. Thats it. It just conks out. It starts back up after a moment- like Colonel lol- it didnt flush when we got it home but my arms were done after fighting the current at the ramp.

Seems to be something I am doing. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
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