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Yes, you can get to all 8 (or is it six? Can't remember) bolts to remove the seat frame from the car. Just remove the plastic covers from the frame and you'll see them. At least two of them you will need an extra long torque tool to reach because they are between the seats.
 

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My solution, when neither side would tumble, was to replace the entire seat row. I tried everything I could to fix the tumble mechanism before giving up and taking it to a dealership. They spent three days with it before telling me they couldn't fix it because it needed a new track, a new latch, and a new cable because all of the above were rusted beyond repair. But because the XK is more than ten years old they did not have parts and couldn't get them. I searched for these parts individually without any luck til I went to ebay where I found an entire second seat row with everything working to replace the one I had already. I was doing this not just to solve the tumble mechanism but to get the center seat belt working, something I something I couldn't attempt to fix without tumbling the seat, so it was worth it to me.
That sounds like water damage to me.
 

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Yep , as well documented in my struggle against leaks in the XK. On the whole the leaks my XK had were not too bad, but they just went on for way too long (at least three years, I estimate). There's also the matter of the car sitting idle for 7-8 months through a hurricane and a few tropic storms. In that period of time I didn't even open the door for almost six months. Once I came back to it in order to replace the engine every leather surface was covered with mold. I can only gather the high vapor count in the interior fed the rust as well causing the mechanism to flake out.

In fact, I'd imagine most of the people who can't get this feature to work have long term water damage brought on by rusted parts
 

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Yep , as well documented in my struggle against leaks in the XK. On the whole the leaks my XK had were not too bad, but they just went on for way too long (at least three years, I estimate). There's also the matter of the car sitting idle for 7-8 months through a hurricane and a few tropic storms. In that period of time I didn't even open the door for almost six months. Once I came back to it in order to replace the engine every leather surface was covered with mold. I can only gather the high vapor count in the interior fed the rust as well causing the mechanism to flake out.

In fact, I'd imagine most of the people who can't get this feature to work have long term water damage brought on by rusted parts
I'm fortunate. I had one small water leak - which was caused by the installation of the 50 inch LED Light-bar on my roof.

Fortunately, I caught it right away, had it repaired in short order and it had no opportunity to cause any damage.

I also count my blessings that I don't have a sunroof.
 

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2006 Limited 5.7 QDll 142k miles
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@Big Blue said:
I also count my blessings that I don't have a sunroof.

They seem to be more of a bother in the Commander than other vehicles. I've resorted to just vacuuming the drain hoses every 6 to 12 months and then testing the drains to make sure they're flowing properly. Beats having wet floorboards!
 

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Mine were stuck form years of nonuse and kids dropping food and other grunge between the seats that cuase the latch mechanism to gum up. Just had to take a screw driver and help the larch unlock then clean and work it to free it up. Now it flip up without any effort at all just fully lift the side seat flip handle and they spring forward.
 

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For others in similar predicaments:

I first followed the factory service bulletin in regards to easing out bolts to relieve tension on the front facing hinge mechanism under the offending seat. This did not allow my seat to finally unlatch and flip forward, but it may for you. I did note the springs on mine were very heavily corroded, and applied some kroil & pb blaster as i figured there condition was contributing to my problem.

Next I swung around to the rear of the 2nd row. On the offending side, run your hands under the across the back of the seat bottom & feel for the channel the seat bottom cover seats into. With some gentle prying, lift the cover free from out of the channel it seats into. Doing so will enable you to gain a bit more access and visibility to the rear hinge mechanisms on either side of the offending seat, as well as the cable wire that actuates the latching finger when you either pull the factory latch or draw cable under the seat.

In my case the, the factory hand pull latch and draw cable were both actuating the wire cable mechanism which terminates into the inboard rear latch, but not enough to fully release the latching finger free & allow the seat to tumble forward. With the seat cover unhooked a bit at the bottom, you should be able to easily spot and reach this wire cable with a needle nose plier and tug it an extra bit to fully open the latch. If your wire cable end has broken free from the latch mechanism, look for a black plastic square poking out from the bottom of the rear inboard latch, this is where the wire cable was originally seated. push this black plastic square to open the latching finger. Your seat should then finally by free to tumble forward. If your having difficulty locating this wire cable, follow what looks like a black bicycle brake cable line that emerges from center of the seat bottom. follow the black sheathing to the hinge where the sheathing ends, the exposed wire cable that exits the sheathing then wraps across the hinge to the finger release, and should be visible when looking at the latch

I haven't worked on repairing this yet, but I imagine my corroded flip mechanism and spring on the front of the seat bottom resulted in the seat not wanting to flip very easily, which led to lots of extra pulling on the release handle, which ultimately stretched or otherwise damaged the wire cable. By adjusting the cable to tighten its action and increase its travel, i'm betting it will all work as intended again.

hope this helps anyone else who is fighting a stubborn seat
 
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