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Discussion Starter #1
OK so to get ready for the bigger tires I took tonight to work on the pinch weld.

Most important tool is your BFH, that's my 1/2" drive ratchet next to it for scale purposes. A close second is the pry bar made for removing the plastic rivets. Don't do what I did. I looked at it and thought I can do it without that. I did get the job done but that tool is definitely money well spent.



Jacked up, wheel removed



Wheel well liner removed



Close up of pinch weld and coolant lines



Pinch weld bashed over



After all that I used a can of bedliner I got at Harbor Freight. Gave it three coats and put the liner back in. Since I do not have a rivet gun for the plastic rivets I was only able to put the two on the back and the one that holds the liner to the running board back in. I will be visiting Harbor Freight tomorrow to fix that issue.

I didn't do anything with the coolant lines yet. I am going to wait and see how bad things rub.
 

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You will not have any problem with the A/C lines, I didn't.
 

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grinding pinch welds

has any one grinded there pinch welds in the front flush with the body have you had any problems with the body separating. if anyone has pics or any tips that would be great
 

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I think it is safe to hammer them but grinding them completely off may not be a good idea. If you grind them down they may not split right away but road vibration may make the whole thing fall apart.
 

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so how about grinding them down and then weld the body seams together
 

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You may need to add a piece of plate to the ground down area and make a sort of lap weld. I don't think a butt weld will hold up driving down the road if you hit a big bump.
 

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As you can see i neet to cut them off. at full lock and you hit a good size bump you can feel it my wife hates it and wants it fixed LOL:rofl:. I forsee it will still rub when i waste 2-3 hours or more to pound them down

welding a plate after i cut thim flush sounds like a good idea

check out the pics and tell me what you think
they have been cut a bit to help but I just want to hack them the rest of the way off








 

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i cut them off haha

so i ground the pinch welds down today beause im tired of it rubbing here are the pics


now to do something about those hoses im thinking about re-running them



insted of a 1/4 inch of clearance i now hace about a 1 inch
 

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600 miles later no sign of the body seperating still in good shape will keep everyone posted
 

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After installing my spacers and my 265/70/17's, I'm having some rubbing on my front driver's side tire, at the rear where the tire meets the fender flare, near the door hing area. When I turn sharp, the back of the tire hits. I pulled the inner fender back with some wire. It helped but it still rubs, mainly on a square piece that seems molded out.

I'm curious about modifying the pinch weld. First question is the pinch weld in both the front and the back? Most pictures show the coolent lines, which I guess means that is the back. Also, if the pinch weld is behind the inner fender, and the inner fender attaches to the bumper,body,etc. How would changing something behind the inner fender affect what happens on the outside of the inner fender?
 

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I'm curious about modifying the pinch weld. First question is the pinch weld in both the front and the back? Most pictures show the coolent lines, which I guess means that is the back. Also, if the pinch weld is behind the inner fender, and the inner fender attaches to the bumper,body,etc. How would changing something behind the inner fender affect what happens on the outside of the inner fender?
You may not need to modify the pinch weld, that will depend on how large of a tire you went with.

The quick fix for the inner fender well is to use a heat gun and reshape the fender well. If this works then you are done, if not then you will need to work on the pinch welds.
 

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what can I do about the AC lines?

After removing the plastic rivets what will I need to put it all back together? Will the same plastic rivets go back in? (obviousy if I dont break them or something or will I need new ones or some special tools?)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I can't answer the Ac question but you will need new rivets and a special riveter that will work on the plastic ones. I got mine at Harbor Freight.

Do a search for "Harbor Freight" and you will find what you need.
 

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You cant just put them back in? Like removing the grill? I have done that before. I am not sure if you have so you might not know what I mean.
 

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I just completed modifying the pinch weld- I think if you were able to get the existing rivets out intact they would not do the job of anchoring the liner up good and tight. When they are used the first time the rivet tool grips and pulls the center pin back towards you, crimping up the rivet against the inner side of the mounting point and then cuts the extra length of the center pin off flush with the rivet. I bought a 20 pack at NAPA for $6.50.(I needed 22- 11 for each side). I borrowed the plastic rivet tool and now the liners are as tight as they were before the mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You cant just put them back in? Like removing the grill? I have done that before. I am not sure if you have so you might not know what I mean.

Yes I've had the grill out. If memory serves there are a couple of ones like the ones in the grill but the rest of them are nor reuseable. You will need replacements for them.
 

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Yes I've had the grill out. If memory serves there are a couple of ones like the ones in the grill but the rest of them are nor reuseable. You will need replacements for them.

jcoulter your memory serves- mine is the same. There are 8 rivets in the flair, one in the black molding/rock guard, two going up in to the fender well sort of near the struts and two reusables like the ones in the grill that are inserted in to the engine side of the liner. All of the others have to be replaced.
 

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if you can get them out without breaking them, you my friend are skilled. but you need a special tool to get them back in.
just break em, buy new ones and put em in.
 
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