[Legofan]

They are being replaced under warranty.

Only Moog product I own, probably the last.

 

[jeep5253]

They are being replaced under warranty.

Only Moog product I own, probably the last.

@Legofan Well, that sucks! At least they are being replaced. Moog has a good reputation for their products, so I wouldn't give up on them just yet.

.

 

[Big Blue]

They are being replaced under warranty.

Only Moog product I own, probably the last.

Bad news indeed @Legofan; I have Moog front Lower Control Arms and they seem to be made extremey well;

Had them for about a year and a half now, so far, so good.

Moog does have a very good reputation, so, this does surprise me a bit.

 

[Theflyingsaucer]

Is your jeep lifted more then 2.5-3"? you might be running out of travel and pulling on them uncertain condition because the swaybar take a different arc independent of the control arm and its exaggerated if its lifted or lowered. this seems to be one my current issues however thinking of cutting them and adding some length until i can get mine lowered and inch or so or will look to get a superlift kit. which has long ones

 

[Legofan]

@Legofan Well, that sucks! At least they are being replaced. Moog has a good reputation for their products, so I wouldn't give up on them just yet.

I will hand it to them for having a good warranty.

Bad news indeed @Legofan; I have Moog front Lower Control Arms and they seem to be made extremey well;

Had them for about a year and a half now, so far, so good.

Moog does have a very good reputation, so, this does surprise me a bit.

Yeah, I wasn't expecting to replace them this quickly.

Is your jeep lifted more then 2.5-3"? you might be running out of travel and pulling on them uncertain condition because the swaybar take a different arc independent of the control arm and its exaggerated if its lifted or lowered. this seems to be one my current issues however thinking of cutting them and adding some length until i can get mine lowered and inch or so or will look to get a superlift kit. which has long ones

Just a RC 2", that shouldn't cause any harm IMHO.

 

[Theflyingsaucer]

I will hand it to them for having a good warranty.



Yeah, I wasn't expecting to replace them this quickly.



Just a RC 2", that shouldn't cause any harm IMHO.

yes 2" you should be good, my 2" didnt have any issue until i replaced my shocks to the 5100 and they lifted me another 1.5 or more then thats when the fun started lol. maybe you just got the friday links, hopefully the replacement give you long life. keep us posted buddy. we love to hear follow-ups

 

[Legofan]

yes 2" you should be good, my 2" didnt have any issue until i replaced my shocks to the 5100 and they lifted me another 1.5 or more then thats when the fun started lol. maybe you just got the friday links, hopefully the replacement give you long life. keep us posted buddy. we love to hear follow-ups

I put the replacements on today and I noticed the links are at a slight angle outward on the LCA. That may be what's causing the bushings to walk out of the housing.

I did a quick search and didn't find anything for the front that are longer.

Any idea where I might find longer ones?

 

[Theflyingsaucer]

you might have to custom make them using heim joints or cut your new ones and add in some legnth from the old ones once you figure how much you need. im working on solution for mine as well

 

[Legofan]

I might just cut them in half, get some sleeve material and weld them at the correct length. The new replacements make a knocking noise due to the angle. They are hitting the LCA mount.

Grainger sells a bunch of sized carbon steel tubing, I'll have to check the OD of the rod on the link and I plan to have the rod slide into the tube. Adjust to the correct size and weld them up. Should be no problem.

 

[Theflyingsaucer]

I might just cut them in half, get some sleeve material and weld them at the correct length. The new replacements make a knocking noise due to the angle. They are hitting the LCA mount.

Grainger sells a bunch of sized carbon steel tubing, I'll have to check the OD of the rod on the link and I plan to have the rod slide into the tube. Adjust to the correct size and weld them up. Should be no problem.

lol "should be no problem" how my 1/2 day project turns into a week long projects always start.

 

[Legofan]

I had some extra time today and added two inches to the links. The geometry is better but I still get an odd knock, more like a thud. That and they are too long and hit the knuckle. I'm at a loss know. Lift two inches means increase the link two inches but that's too long. Links off and there no thud, I have Moog sway bar bushings.

There's absolutely nothing out there I can find except the same old stock links.

I give up.

 

[Legofan]

Ordered new links(not moog) and new bushings(also not moog). Personally not interested in any more moog products.

Bushing wear after same mileage, they are hard as a rock.

 

[Theflyingsaucer]

I had some extra time today and added two inches to the links. The geometry is better but I still get an odd knock, more like a thud. That and they are too long and hit the knuckle. I'm at a loss know. Lift two inches means increase the link two inches but that's too long. Links off and there no thud, I have Moog sway bar bushings.

There's absolutely nothing out there I can find except the same old stock links.

I give up.

not sure if 2" are needed the logic sounds right but you trying to correct and arc movement so maybe not quite 2" is required im not sure how to calculate it but maybe try putting one old link on side and attach the other link only on the sway bar for the other side and then lift the other side to where the wheel just lifts off the ground this should give you an idea of how far the suspension will sag maybe you find the magic number is between the 2" it has to have some pressure on it you just trying to relieve the full binding effect. maybe have to replace bushing with hard polyurethane along with a 1/2" or 1" increase. just one of those things have to record data and try again and hopefully you can find the sweet and help us all figure it out I will try to mess with mine also maybe we can figure it out

 

[Legofan]

not sure if 2" are needed the logic sounds right but you trying to correct and arc movement so maybe not quite 2" is required I'm not sure how to calculate it but maybe try putting one old link on side and attach the other link only on the sway bar for the other side and then lift the other side to where the wheel just lifts off the ground this should give you an idea of how far the suspension will sag maybe you find the magic number is between the 2" it has to have some pressure on it you just trying to relieve the full binding effect. maybe have to replace bushing with hard polyurethane along with a 1/2" or 1" increase. just one of those things have to record data and try again and hopefully you can find the sweet and help us all figure it out I will try to mess with mine also maybe we can figure it out

Yeah, 2" was way too much. I agree the logic of adding 2" seems right but, in reality it is not. I read on another site that it only needed 1/2" but, that seems too little still. I ended up ordering Mevotech links and bushings. I bought their "Over-built" line which was impressive. I used Mevotech for my upper and lower control arms which I just replaced as well a few weeks ago. The UCA are thicker and seem a bit longer which I'm not completely sure on since I replaced the entire front end. It's probably just sitting better now with all the new parts which eliminated some issues the worn bushings created.

Incidentally, when I went to the dealer to replace all the front end bolts they told me the rear LCA bolts are discontinued.

Anyway, everything is nice and solid now. I did not lengthen the links and they seem ok for now. I'll keep an eye on them. The links were never the problem, it was the bushings.

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