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Discussion Starter #3
Im.not overly concerned there. If it's not on that it's on my roof rack which is even further back. I just want to know if that system would work.
 

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You might have to be the test subject on this one. I can't say I've seen anyone post up that they are using this and I consider myself pretty plugged into the mod seen. If you do get it maybe do a review on it and take some pictures. I can help share it across multiple platforms maybe help others out that are searching for a different way of mounting light bars. Are you on the face book groups or other forums? If not and have time to wait I can post the question in a few spots and see what pops up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah definitely check and see if you can find anything. It looks like you have to buy the gutter less mount and drill inside the top of the door on the body to mount the brackets. That's why I'm trying to find out. If it's too.much I'll just mount it to my roof rack. Just makes it a permanent. Which I would like to avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nice. I think I'm going to mount it between the bars on my roof rack and have a quick disconnect for the lights.
 

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I had this bar on my 98 XJ. The bar sat too far back on the roof, couldn't really go much further forward on the gutters on the XJ. If I had to do it again, I would have mounted the lights on the front bumper. Not sure about mounting it on an XK since it does not have external gutters.
 

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I wanted one but it looks bad that far back plus there might be wind noise with it. I would like one to sit flush with the windshield. I have a 20" on my grill guard and love it.
 

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I drilled right into the hood. Tight fit already with bolts but then I used sealer around the brackets and bolts. I love the look.

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So you drilled holes and bolted it directly to your roof.

You're brave.

It was just for that reason I ordered a longer, curved 50" LED Light Bar so I could mount it to the end-caps on the factory roof-rails - and not have to drill into the roof.

Even so, it was not without it's challenges.

Here is a list of issues I encountered and what I had to do to overcome them.

The supplied mounting hardware and brackets are inadequate for a 50" curved LED light bar that weighs 16 lbs. Because of the parabolic (curved) shape of the light bar, the majority of the weight of the light is towards the highest, most forward point of the curve - or, the very middle of the light bar - this is a problem you don't encounter with a straight light bar, where the weight is evenly distributed across the length of the light and sits primarily on the brackets themselves, as it should.

The result is in my case, was that the light bar always has a natural tendency to want to slip downward when you drive at highway speeds. The splines machined into the brackets and the splines on the outer housing of the light bar where the brackets mate to, in order to lock it in place are not well machined and not very defined. As a result, they struggle mightily to lock and hold the light bar in a fixed position at highway speeds. When the light bar slips downward & out of position, the natural tendency (in my case) was to crank down tighter on the bolts that go through the mounting brackets and into the light bar housing, and for me, this is where a problem occurred. The female end of the light bar that the mounting bolts screw into is aluminum, the bolts themselves are steel.

Anybody who knows anything about metal knows that aluminum is a much softer metal than steel. If you crank down to much on the steel mounting bolts, you will strip out the aluminum female threads in the light bar.

After trying to crank those bolts down a couple of times because the light bar kept slipping/vibrating out of position, that's exactly what happened, I stripped out one of the female aluminum threads in the light bar housing.

To make a much longer story a little shorter, I wound up doing several things. First off, I had to re-tap both ends of the light bar to a larger size and I also drilled about a 1/2 inch further into the light bar (without going all the way through) to create an extra half-inch of female thread. I wound up settling on 3/8 16 as the thread size.

Next, I went to a specialty hardware store and bought 3/8 16 aluminum bolts so I have aluminum on aluminum, instead of steel on aluminum. An aluminum bolt going into an aluminum female thread is much less likely to strip out.

Next, I bought 4 stainless steel star lock washers to replace the cheaper spring lock washers that came with the light. I also increased the size of the mounting bolts at the base of the mounting brackets to 1/4 20 stainless steel bolts with vibration proof nuts.

Lastly, (and probably the most important step) I mounted a piece of pressure treated 2x4 (which I painted black) about 4 inches long underneath the light bar, directly in the center and permanently mounted it to the light bar using GOOP permanent contact adhesive and sealant, which creates a permanent but flexible bond between a variety of different surfaces (including metal & wood) and it also paintable. Underneath the piece of 2x4, using the same GOOP contact adhesive, I attached two strips of black rubber that I cut to size from a black rubber bungie cord, so that the 2x4 does not scratch or damage the paint / clear-coat on the roof. I have attached some pictures of the finished/improved mounting job.

It was a fair amount of work but it was absolutely necessary in my case. The light bar itself is pretty high quality but it seems that Oslamp cut some corners with the supplied mounting brackets (which should have been better machined & had more well-defined splines) and the mounting hardware - which as I said earlier, was inadequate for a 16 lb curved LED light bar. Another cost-cutting move by Oslamp, for one of the higher-quality & more expensive LED light-bars on the market, was making the female mounting threads in the light bar housing out of aluminum, instead of making them out of machined stainless steel, which would have been the proper material for the supplied steel mounting bolts to bolt into.

I will confess, some of my issues were probably self-inflicted, because this style of light-bar is actually designed to mount across the top of the front windshield - but I didn't want it there, I wanted it up high & out of my field of vision. Even if I tried to mount it across the top of the windshield, I'm fairly sure I would have encountered some of the same issues, just because of the shear weight & previously mentioned design flaws of the light.

In any event, I managed to overcome all these issues, while mounting the light bar nice & high on the vehicle, for maximum light beam distance & coverage. I also like that if I am driving extremely long distances, I can take the light bar down by just unplugging the power cord & removing 2 bolts which would take about 5 minutes time and I don't have to be concerned about the water-tight integrity of the roof.



 

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Big Blue -

How did you get power up there? Your build looks good but the pics don't show how you route the power.
 

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Wow you did a lot of work. I had mine done in about 25 minutes including wiring. I went with drilling right into my roof for a few reasons. 1, I wanted the light bar up front flush with my sunroof. 2, I wanted a very clean look like it is supposed to be there. 3, cutting my XK is no concern for me lol its paid off in 6 months and I would never trade it in. I have done too many modifications that I would get next to nothing from a dealer. I'd replace expensive parts on my XK over buying a new vehicle. It is more cost effective lol

With all that said, I do like your build and light bar. It came out nice. I am just not a fan of mounts or wood used etc.

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Big Blue -

How did you get power up there? Your build looks good but the pics don't show how you route the power.
I had the wiring done by an automotive electrician.

I'm not exactly sure how he ran it other then to say that it is out of sight.

Since I am overseas right now, I can't go out and look to give you a more detailed explanation.

I can show you where the switch was mounted but I don't think that will do much to answer your question.

Here is a pic:



When I get back conus in a couple of weeks, I'll look and trace the wiring to try to give you a better explanation.
 

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3, cutting my XK is no concern for me lol its paid off in 6 months and I would never trade it in. I have done too many modifications that I would get next to nothing from a dealer. I'd replace expensive parts on my XK over buying a new vehicle. It is more cost effective lol

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My Commander was paid off the day I bought it, I'm not a believer in car payments.

I have no plans on trading mine in either - pretty much for the same reasons as you, too much money invested in it now.

I did do alot of work on it, because I wanted a quality mounting job that I would not have to worry about down the road and something that would be easily removable that didn't require cutting or drilling holes into the roof unnecessarily.
 

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Necessary in order to put the bar where I wanted it, and to get the look I got. To me atleast, it looks like it is supposed to be there.


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Necessary in order to put the bar where I wanted it, and to get the look I got. To me atleast, it looks like it is supposed to be there.


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Core, don't misunderstand me.

Your light looks just fine where you mounted it.

The difference between your thinking and mine, is, I like to think ahead & keep my options open.

If I mount something and I decide somewhere down the road - for whatever reason that I want to change it, I want to be able to do that seamlessly, without worrying about having drill holes to fill, or, patching holes that I cut for something that I am no longer going to use.

If you mount something on your Commander and you know for certain you will never have any intention of changing it then there is nothing wrong with cutting and drilling permanent holes into the body if that's what you are comfortable with.
 

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I agree. We all have our comfort levels or takes on what we want on our Jeeps. At the end of the day, we all love modding and wheeling. That is what counts!

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