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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry all, trying to put my RC 2 inch in and I cant figure it out.
Clevis bolts did not come out as I figured. Just finally got the bolt out of the top of the fork, but now the shock still won't move. Am I missing something?
Without that bolt in there, the shock should be free from the fork, just more brute force?




2010 XK 3.7L Sport
144,000 and counting.
2" lift (as soon as I find some time)
1.5" spacers
Front tint 35%
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, why doesn't anyone take off the control arms? I'm guess that must be a huge pain. But if they weren't there, we would be able to lean the strut out still attached to the fork and clevis bolts and put the spacers lift on top.
Just a thought as I having been coming up w plans C through M. Ha.


2010 XK 3.7L Sport
144,000 and counting.
2" lift (as soon as I find some time)
1.5" spacers
Front tint 35%
 

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I tapped the forks completely off the bottoms of the shocks. It will take a few whacks with a mallet. I cleaned off both the shock and fork and put on some WD40 before install.

Put the shock in place and support with one of the bolts through the top. Then you have to tap the fork up onto the shock.

It really is easy compared to taking more suspension pieces apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Bob. Appreciate that. I put it all back together. It wasn't much easier.
I think I may take it to a local mechanic to have him get the clevis bolts off. Then I will be able to get the rest.


2010 XK 3.7L Sport
144,000 and counting.
2" lift (as soon as I find some time)
1.5" spacers
Front tint 35%
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So another question; now that I have taken the front one side all apart and put it back together, will it be ok to drive a few days and a couple hundred miles to work without an alignment? I don't want to eat away at the tire. Even though I want new taller ones.
What do you guys think?


2010 XK 3.7L Sport
144,000 and counting.
2" lift (as soon as I find some time)
1.5" spacers
Front tint 35%
 

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5,766 Posts
So another question; now that I have taken the front one side all apart and put it back together, will it be ok to drive a few days and a couple hundred miles to work without an alignment? I don't want to eat away at the tire. Even though I want new taller ones.
What do you guys think?


2010 XK 3.7L Sport
144,000 and counting.
2" lift (as soon as I find some time)
1.5" spacers
Front tint 35%
You took it apart and put it back together - but with the same components, so, your suspension geometry remains unchanged.

Provided that you torqued everything to spec while the suspension was under load, I wouldn't think you'd need an alignment.

If you didn't torque everything down while the suspension was under load - I'd be sure to do that.

As long as you did, you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks. I did not under load. But I will.


2010 XK 3.7L Sport
144,000 and counting.
2" lift (as soon as I find some time)
1.5" spacers
Front tint 35%
 

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Joined
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5,766 Posts
Thanks. I did not under load. But I will.


2010 XK 3.7L Sport
144,000 and counting.
2" lift (as soon as I find some time)
1.5" spacers
Front tint 35%
I'm not a mechanic by any stretch, but, I have been around here long enough to tell you that I have seen and heard about people not torquing everything down when the suspension is under load - and more often than not, it causes them problems - creaking & clunking noises from the suspension mostly.
 

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The shock can sometimes be a challenge to get out of the clevis while it's still in the vehicle so the roadblock you ran into isn't unexpected.

My suggestion would be to try to remove the lower clevis bolt. Don't know what part of the country you're in but the lower clevis area doesn't look too rusted in the picture so you may be able to remove the bolt without too much trouble. I was able to remove mine (as well as the front lower control arm bolt which also tends to rust to the bushing sleeve) and I'm in Northern Ohio and our roads are coated with sodium most of the winter. If you can remove the clevis bolt then just lower the shock tower out of the XK and bolt the spacer to the top of the tower.

If you can't remove the clevis bolt, try removing the lower control arms. Like I said above, the front lower control arm bolt tends to rust/seize to the bushing sleeve preventing it's removal but it's slightly more protected from the elements. Problem with removing the lower control arms is the CV axle has to come out too - which makes your project much more involved.

If your clevis bolt/bushing is in as good a shape as it looks to be in the pic above try removing it. May take some serious effort but loosen, then tighten, then loosen, repeat. If it comes out you'll be SO MUCH better off and the install of the spacer lift will be a piece of cake. Before you start on the clevis bolt stop by NAPA and get a tube or small can of NICKEL anti-seize; don't get zinc or aluminum as those types won't help prevent the two steel pieces (clevis bolt and bushing sleeve) from rusting together down the road but nickel will do the trick. Coat the bolt liberally with anti seize when you put it back in so it will come out easily the next time you need to remove the shock (and there will be a next time - can't just do this project once. It's a Jeep ;) )

Keep us posted on your progress. I've done a few of these and the frustration of getting bolts loose that haven't been loose since the factory is enough to make you throw a wrench through the windshield. Hang in there - it will work out!

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Bob. While I had everything apart, it seemed so simple of a process when that lower clevis bolt came out. Right now I am leaning towards having a shop get them out and then put them, if they are ok, or new ones back in. Then I can bust this whole thing out pretty quick.

As for the rust belt, I am right there w you. Just East a little, on the border. The sodium is just eating away at our vehicles.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.


2010 XK 3.7L Sport
144,000 and counting.
2" lift (as soon as I find some time)
1.5" spacers
Front tint 35%
 
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