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Discussion Starter #1
My 07 Overland threw a P0520 code at me a couple of days ago. I pulled the power to reset it, but the check engine light came back a little later that evening. This is my first Jeep in over 30 years, but I've read that the oil pumps are pretty solid, so I figure it is the oil sensor switch. My mechanic wants to charge me $160 to replace it, but I don't really want to spend that much money to put in a $25 part. I got the skid plate off and located the switch, but I'm stumped by the connector. I know the red tab has to be moved to the side, but I can't get it to budge. I've tried everything I can think of. I tried out other red tabs in the engine bay and I can get them to move no problem, just not the one on the switch. Something about coming from underneath or something else? I even tried a small screwdriver, but I can't get it to move. I'm hoping there is a trick, because I'm ready to admit defeat. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

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There's no trick to opening it. It's the same tab lock as you'll find under the hood. If you figured out how to open those, the connector for the oil sensor opens the same way. It being stuck could also be the source of the tripped CEL. If it's that stuck, there's probably corrosion.

Try your local auto parts store for electrical connector cleaner. If you can't find that, get some MAF (Mass Airflow) cleaner. You'll want a good degreasing cleaner like those that will not dissolve or distort plastic.

Spray some on the harness and see if that doesn't help. If it's still stuck, spray a little more and let it soak. Repeat as needed. After you get it to release, use the same cleaner to clean the male and female sides of the connection. That may fix it.

If that fixes it, get some dielectric grease from the parts store and waterproof the connector to prevent it from happening again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There's no trick to opening it. It's the same tab lock as you'll find under the hood. If you figured out how to open those, the connector for the oil sensor opens the same way. It being stuck could also be the source of the tripped CEL. If it's that stuck, there's probably corrosion.

Try your local auto parts store for electrical connector cleaner. If you can't find that, get some MAF (Mass Airflow) cleaner. You'll want a good degreasing cleaner like those that will not dissolve or distort plastic.

Spray some on the harness and see if that doesn't help. If it's still stuck, spray a little more and let it soak. Repeat as needed. After you get it to release, use the same cleaner to clean the male and female sides of the connection. That may fix it.

If that fixes it, get some dielectric grease from the parts store and waterproof the connector to prevent it from happening again.
Thank you for the sage advice. It is always possible to have corrosion especially on a truck with a few years under its belt. In this case though, there is a little wiggle, which tells me the connector will just slide apart once I get the cursed red tab to move so that the black tab can be depressed. The tab itself doesn't appear to be gunked up at all, it just won't traverse from left to right across the connector!:brickwall:
 

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I've seen corrosion on vehicles with less than a year on the roads. More so in areas that salt the roads in the winter.

That type of connector is called a secondary lock. The red tab being the secondary. That secondary locking tab should be pushed over to the opposite side. You'll hear a click when it clears. From there you'll have the primary lock that you'll have to push/squeeze to release.

With those harnesses, I've always found the secondary tab easy to work. It's the primary push part that usually gets stuck. Give it a good cleaning first, then push on the primary tab really hard while wiggling loose. There have been a few times where lightly pressing and gripping with vice grips has helped.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, it is that doggone red secondary. I'll give your tapping idea a shot. Now all I need is to grow two extra arms and find an elf-sized hammer to fit that tiny spot!
 

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If you can't find a tiny hammer, you could also try placing the flat end of the screwdriver against the tab and tap on the neck of the driver with the handle of another.

You don't need to really bang on it hard. It only takes a little bit of dirt to make the secondary tabs stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks. Got it out and got a face full of dirt to go with it! The tab was gunked up as you suggested. :beerchug:
 
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