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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone hear anything good or bad about Clevis/ front strut extension lift? It is the Protune Suspension Steel Lift Kit | Front 3.5" Rear 2" | Grand Cherokee WK Commander XK. I have a 3" OME that I may add this to. Any thoughts good or bad? Seems less work than cheap metal top strut spacer but is it much less strong????
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
$150 for front and back spacers. rear is like metal Rough Country but front is extended/reenforced clevis ..... hmmmm? Think much less time and effort than top 2" regular spacer as with other products we are more use to. Looks like an hour Job, so 3.5 for me.
 

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How far off the ground are your front wheel wells? Mine are 37.5 with ome and Bilstein 5100s. This gives me about 1.5 in downward travel.... Very little. I don't think you will be able to get the extended fork in there and bolt everything up ... And If somehow you do, there will be terrible stress on the front driveline and absolutely no downward travel... It will definitely look really cool though.
 

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These have been around for awhile. Heavy Metal is the first brand I remember seeing on EBAY.

Generally they are overrating their lift numbers. Actual ride height increase is around 1.5" to 2" (from stock height) in the front IIRC, and 1.5" in the rear. They add those numbers together and that is where they get "3.5" lift"

This is probably a good option for someone with issues with their clevis and clevis bolt since it is usually hard to find a stock replacement clevis. AFAIK there is no strength increase, probably weaker then stock just looking at them, but I have not heard of anyone breaking them.

As someone that has torn down the front end twice Im not sure how this is any easier then a RC style lift. Same degree of difficulty IMHO.
 

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How far off the ground are your front wheel wells? Mine are 37.5 with ome and Bilstein 5100s. This gives me about 1.5 in downward travel.... Very little. I don't think you will be able to get the extended fork in there and bolt everything up ... And If somehow you do, there will be terrible stress on the front driveline and absolutely no downward travel... It will definitely look really cool though.


Measuring off of the ground includes tire height. which varies of course. Its more useful to measure fender lip to axle centerline.

Generally anything over 22.5" is too high without a superlift to correct geometry.
 

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This is true, but it gives some reference, and there is no line in the center of the hub. I'm running 265/70/17... So roughly a 32 / 2 =16 or 21.5 using center of hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How far off the ground are your front wheel wells? Mine are 37.5 with ome and Bilstein 5100s. This gives me about 1.5 in downward travel.... Very little. I don't think you will be able to get the extended fork in there and bolt everything up ... And If somehow you do, there will be terrible stress on the front driveline and absolutely no downward travel... It will definitely look really cool though.
LOL, yes but we need it to work good too.... My front fenders are 35.5" from ground and back is 36.5" and 265/70 R17 on OME springs and OME shocks. PO didn't even know he had a lift so I don't know much about it. OME shocks just say Nitro Charged and can't see a part# and see springs just have an OME tag (old man emu). that's all I could get, not sure how many different setups they have for xk unless just 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thx

Measuring off of the ground includes tire height. which varies of course. Its more useful to measure fender lip to axle centerline.

Generally anything over 22.5" is too high without a superlift to correct geometry.
That's great info. I'll do the measuring then. If it all adds up do u think it would be less work than the Rough Country Hockey puck style spacer to add a little or is it the same work? Just mentioning I have the Hemi because things are so tight in there every time I need to work on something and many of the plastic parts are now brittle w electric housing, clips etc in my 2006. Not sure if that's another issue or better off not touching. Was thinking about cooler, possibly even 180 thermostat if someone recommends or even putting in vents in hood at this point. ugg Thanks everyone!
 

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This is true, but it gives some reference, and there is no line in the center of the hub. I'm running 265/70/17... So roughly a 32 / 2 =16 or 21.5 using center of hub.
unfortunately just because the tire is sold as a 265/70r17 does not make it exactly 32" tire size can vary between manufacturer even despite using industry standard measurements.

Its pretty damn easy to eyeball the center of your hub. :wink3:
 

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That's great info. I'll do the measuring then. If it all adds up do u think it would be less work than the Rough Country Hockey puck style spacer to add a little or is it the same work? Just mentioning I have the Hemi because things are so tight in there every time I need to work on something and many of the plastic parts are now brittle w electric housing, clips etc in my 2006. Not sure if that's another issue or better off not touching. Was thinking about cooler, possibly even 180 thermostat if someone recommends or even putting in vents in hood at this point. ugg Thanks everyone!
Lower thermostats will not increase the cooling capacity of any vehicle. Thats an old school hot rodder deal. Modern electronically controlled engines are designed to work most efficiently in a certain temperature range.

Do you have cooling problems?

I forget what years have a mech fan (i think 2006 does) but you could swap to high quality electric fans, maybe OEM(not the cheapo bright red chinesium ones the tuners use) That frees up power and can increase cooling capacity when paired with a proper shroud.

Radiators can be upgraded certainly, but again dont fall into the trap of getting a cheapo "performance" rad from ebay or something. You'll likely be hurting rather then helping.
 

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LOL, yes but we need it to work good too.... My front fenders are 35.5" from ground and back is 36.5" and 265/70 R17 on OME springs and OME shocks. PO didn't even know he had a lift so I don't know much about it. OME shocks just say Nitro Charged and can't see a part# and see springs just have an OME tag (old man emu). that's all I could get, not sure how many different setups they have for xk unless just 1.
OME has an HD spring and an MD spring. Generally regarded as great mid range setups. Usually with a hemi or the diesel everyone says to just get the HD.
 

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LOL, yes but we need it to work good too.... My front fenders are 35.5" from ground and back is 36.5" and 265/70 R17 on OME springs and OME shocks. PO didn't even know he had a lift so I don't know much about it. OME shocks just say Nitro Charged and can't see a part# and see springs just have an OME tag (old man emu). that's all I could get, not sure how many different setups they have for xk unless just 1.

So you already have an OME lift huh? I would not recommend stacking the clevis lift with the OME. You'll end up with bad front end geometry and definitely hit the spring with the UCA with any downtravel and your axles will see increased wear.

You can address the UCA issue with aftermarket UCA's but axles will still be a problem as well as getting your alignment to the point where you are not tearing up tires and wandering all over the place.

If you want to go bigger in the front you only have one, maybe two options short of doing a Superlift. ($$$)

You can run rustys strut plates for .5 to 3/4 of an inch.
Rusty's Spacers - Strut Plates (XK/WK)

I have these. They work.

or you can maybe get away with bilstein 5100's at their lowest setting which is good for 3/4 of an inch or so front lift. I also have these, mysetup is a little rare since these were hard to find, but I run 5100's @ the 2" setting with a rustys spacer on the top. I wouldn't recomment going any further then that. In fact I should really get some JBA UCA's as is.

In the rear you do not have the same limitations. Usually people are after a certain stance and no one really likes the stinkbug look (ass in the air). You can get rear poly spacers and cut them down to your desired stand if you like. Or just stack rear spring isolators which I have done.

Then your droop limit is on the drivers side gas tank skid plate, that will hit the control arm, but it can be trimmed (i have done this) and your shock length, and I am running a 28" bilstein 5100 in the rear for more droop as well.)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lower thermostats will not increase the cooling capacity of any vehicle. Thats an old school hot rodder deal. Modern electronically controlled engines are designed to work most efficiently in a certain temperature range.

Do you have cooling problems?

I forget what years have a mech fan (i think 2006 does) but you could swap to high quality electric fans, maybe OEM(not the cheapo bright red chinesium ones the tuners use) That frees up power and can increase cooling capacity when paired with a proper shroud.

Radiators can be upgraded certainly, but again dont fall into the trap of getting a cheapo "performance" rad from ebay or something. You'll likely be hurting rather then helping.
Thx, as far as the stock gauges read coolant temp are well in range but not 100% sure real temp. Not overheating etc... and my electric fans are working but engine just feels hot to me but I never owned a Hemi Jeep and may just be normal. Trying to learn, thanks for all the great info and patience.
 

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That's great info. I'll do the measuring then. If it all adds up do u think it would be less work than the Rough Country Hockey puck style spacer to add a little or is it the same work? Just mentioning I have the Hemi because things are so tight in there every time I need to work on something and many of the plastic parts are now brittle w electric housing, clips etc in my 2006. Not sure if that's another issue or better off not touching. Was thinking about cooler, possibly even 180 thermostat if someone recommends or even putting in vents in hood at this point. ugg Thanks everyone!
Just to clarify the "hockey puck spacer" goes in the rear and the strut top hat spacer goes in the front. :grin2:

IMHO its basically the same amount of work at best or more work. Removing the clevis bolt on these vehicles is often a hellish experience because they are usually seized in place and require cutting and pounding and torches to remove. You can potentially just compress the spring and push the LCA down far enough to get the RC style spacer or a RUstys plate on top without removing the clevis bolt.
 

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Thx, as far as the stock gauges read coolant temp are well in range but not 100% sure real temp. Not overheating etc... and my electric fans are working but engine just feels hot to me but I never owned a Hemi Jeep and may just be normal. Trying to learn, thanks for all the great info and patience.
NO problem!:smile2:

Yeah big engines push out a lot of heat. The engine bay is a little cramped, but the factory setup has shown to work quite well in all but the absolute most extreme situations.

I forget the user name here, I have not been around in forever but there is a user that Has an XK and lives in saudi arabia or something and he drives that sucker around in the middle of the desert. There are some amazing pics of it around here somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Measuring off of the ground includes tire height. which varies of course. Its more useful to measure fender lip to axle centerline.

Generally anything over 22.5" is too high without a superlift to correct geometry.
So you already have an OME lift huh? I would not recommend stacking the clevis lift with the OME. You'll end up with bad front end geometry and definitely hit the spring with the UCA with any downtravel and your axles will see increased wear.

You can address the UCA issue with aftermarket UCA's but axles will still be a problem as well as getting your alignment to the point where you are not tearing up tires and wandering all over the place.

If you want to go bigger in the front you only have one, maybe two options short of doing a Superlift. ($$$)

You can run rustys strut plates for .5 to 3/4 of an inch.
Rusty's Spacers - Strut Plates (XK/WK)

I have these. They work.

or you can maybe get away with bilstein 5100's at their lowest setting which is good for 3/4 of an inch or so front lift. I also have these, mysetup is a little rare since these were hard to find, but I run 5100's @ the 2" setting with a rustys spacer on the top. I wouldn't recomment going any further then that. In fact I should really get some JBA UCA's as is.

In the rear you do not have the same limitations. Usually people are after a certain stance and no one really likes the stinkbug look (ass in the air). You can get rear poly spacers and cut them down to your desired stand if you like. Or just stack rear spring isolators which I have done.

Then your droop limit is on the drivers side gas tank skid plate, that will hit the control arm, but it can be trimmed (i have done this) and your shock length, and I am running a 28" bilstein 5100 in the rear for more droop as well.)
That looks like a good option. I just measured 20.5" center of hub to front fender flair. Does that change anything for the better/worse?
 

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That looks like a good option. I just measured 20.5" center of hub to front fender flair. Does that change anything for the better/worse?

You are fine to use rustys spacer then. I wouldnt go with the clevis lift personally.

You trying to level it front to back or are you lifting the rear as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You are fine to use rustys spacer then. I wouldnt go with the clevis lift personally.

You trying to level it front to back or are you lifting the rear as well?
Yes level, or slightly higher in back. If I am at 20.5" center hub to fender now will Rusty's spacer bring me to around 21" u think? Double up on Rusty's spacer? Wishin I had some $$$ to bring it some more capabilities ;) THX again!
 

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Just to add a little bit to this conversation... If you're at 20.5 in the front then you probably have the MD OME springs - they won't lift as much as the HD. I have the OME's HD springs on my Hemi and I'm a tick under 22" in front which is plenty high.

As has been said already, with the independent front suspension design of the XK/WK the issue becomes the CV axles the higher you go. They get to the point where they're pulling out of the front diff and/or binding as you turn and when the a front corner needs to droop. Best to go with a SuperLift as mentioned above if you really want to lift your XK above 22 inches. Most of the lifted pickups you see running around these days have a variation of the SuperLift on them to prevent front CV axle issues. If you look at them closely you'll see the CV's are basically level with the ground even though it takes a step ladder to get in the cab - that's because the entire front suspension has been dropped to create the lift.

With your setup a spacer on top of the coilover assembly - or Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks - will do the trick. Just don't go over 22 inches from the center of the hub to the fender flare and you'll avoid the UCA hitting the springs, you'll save your CV's and the alignment shop won't shut its doors when they see you coming since you'll be able to get alignment within stock specs.

Bob
 

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Just to add a little bit to this conversation... If you're at 20.5 in the front then you probably have the MD OME springs - they won't lift as much as the HD. I have the OME's HD springs on my Hemi and I'm a tick under 22" in front which is plenty high.

As has been said already, with the independent front suspension design of the XK/WK the issue becomes the CV axles the higher you go. They get to the point where they're pulling out of the front diff and/or binding as you turn and when the a front corner needs to droop. Best to go with a SuperLift as mentioned above if you really want to lift your XK above 22 inches. Most of the lifted pickups you see running around these days have a variation of the SuperLift on them to prevent front CV axle issues. If you look at them closely you'll see the CV's are basically level with the ground even though it takes a step ladder to get in the cab - that's because the entire front suspension has been dropped to create the lift.

With your setup a spacer on top of the coilover assembly - or Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks - will do the trick. Just don't go over 22 inches from the center of the hub to the fender flare and you'll avoid the UCA hitting the springs, you'll save your CV's and the alignment shop won't shut its doors when they see you coming since you'll be able to get alignment within stock specs.

Bob
Agreed, OP is most likely running the MD springs
 
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