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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi and thanks for let me be in your group,
Have just bought myself a 07 Limited, QDII, 3.0 CRD powered, I'm very happy with it so far.
Previous owner of a XJ and two WJ's.
I hope to learn and contribute in the forum.
Brgds.
Cato
 

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Hi and thanks for let me be in your group,
Have just bought myself a 07 Limited, QDII, 3.0 CRD powered, I'm very happy with it so far.
Previous owner of a XJ and two WJ's.
I hope to learn and contribute in the forum.
Brgds.
Cato
Welcome to the forum @cat-vi;

Post some photos of your Commander when you are able.

This place is a treasure-trove of Commander information and there are a lot of good folks here.
 

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Be sure to change the oil way sooner than what user manual says... I mean like after 8.000-10.000km or so... These MB OM642 engines are prone to failure when the oil is not changed very often. Also, make sure you feed it oil with very low NOACK volatility index. If the oil doesn't specify the NOACK volatility, stay away from it, as the reason why it is not mentioned is that the value is probably at the highest limit. The lower NOACK the better... NOACK says how much oil is turned into vapor when heated to high temps (like when it gets to the turbo). The less oil vapors, the less carbon in your engine... And carbon deposits kill your engine...

If you want to know more, just let me know, I can give you more info... I was also considering the 3.0CRD, as these diesel Comms, are dirt cheap in Europe...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Be sure to change the oil way sooner than what user manual says... I mean like after 8.000-10.000km or so... These MB OM642 engines are prone to failure when the oil is not changed very often. Also, make sure you feed it oil with very low NOACK volatility index. If the oil doesn't specify the NOACK volatility, stay away from it, as the reason why it is not mentioned is that the value is probably at the highest limit. The lower NOACK the better... NOACK says how much oil is turned into vapor when heated to high temps (like when it gets to the turbo). The less oil vapors, the less carbon in your engine... And carbon deposits kill your engine...

If you want to know more, just let me know, I can give you more info... I was also considering the 3.0CRD, as these diesel Comms, are dirt cheap in Europe...
Thanks for the advice, any particular brand oil to be prefered? My previous WJ had a 2,7 crd, oil was renewd every 8000 km, no worries.
Looking in to a tune, maybe a DPF delete, even though I find the delete pipe a bit pricy.
 

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Welcome,
I did my oil cooler 8 weeks ago. Its not a nice job but well worth doing! I change my oil every 6K using genuine mercedes benz oil. Keep an eye on the turbo oil seal for the intake because they can leak badly if not fitted correctly but i change mine when replacing the air filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Welcome,
I did my oil cooler 8 weeks ago. Its not a nice job but well worth doing! I change my oil every 6K using genuine mercedes benz oil. Keep an eye on the turbo oil seal for the intake because they can leak badly if not fitted correctly but i change mine when replacing the air filter.
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind.
Did you flush/clean the oil cooler on the oil side? they seem to be quite compact to work with this enginebays, I'm used to the gmt400 truck with 6,5 td where I got all the space in the world :)
 

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Thanks, I'll keep it in mind.
Did you flush/clean the oil cooler on the oil side? they seem to be quite compact to work with this enginebays, I'm used to the gmt400 truck with 6,5 td where I got all the space in the world :)

I replaced my oil cooler because when i removed it the antifreeze had crystalised on the coolant side.The oil side was fine but due to the amount of work to get to the cooler it made sense to replace it! :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi,
I like the torque curve, it is cranking out 218 hp, 510Nm (376ft.lbf) a tune will increase this to 265hp, 600Nm (443ft.lbf) that should wake her up a bit. we'll see.
 
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